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Favourites of 2011

2012-01-15T18:14:00.000-08:00

I have been mulling over my standout products from the year that has gone by - 2011. I hope everyone had a great New Year's eve!

Skin care wise, I mourn the one cruelly taken from shelves worldwide: Nivea Fluid. This had been my standby, my trusty cheap n' effective stalwart moisturiser. The closest I can find now is La Roche Posay Effaclar K, which seems promising so far - although I am now on a Clinique routine, so I'll be interested to see how that compares. But enough pessimism; let this post be one for rejoicing! [Ed- might have let a few disgruntled comments in at the end.]

The best skincare find is my Origins £35 eye cream.

I blogged about this earlier and can now say decisively that it has managed to cure some of the fine lines. Hurrah! I would prefer it to be around the £20 mark, but I think it is worth it. I'm currently testing a Clinique one, but I have set the bar so high, I'm already considering my Origins backup...

Another excellent skincare item is Clinique's All About Lips (12ml, £16.)
It is unlike other lip balms, as in fact there is nothing oily or even emollient about it - in fact it actually seems rather odd putting a standard thick white cream on your lips. But - it sinks in and smoothes chapped lips ever so delicately. I believe it has fruit acids and gently exfoliates as it soothes. And, it really does allow your lipstick to adhere better too.

Hair-wise, the absolute godsend has been those Innova Repair capsules.

My hairdresser was amazed to see me come in with growing, healthy hair. Often she has sent me packing, refusing to dye my hair because it is so weak. (I wash and blow-dry my hair mercilessly using powerful salon-grade supplies without the technical know-how.) I have blogged about this great product here.

Now onto the makeup! My surprise find is Michael Todd. I bought these simply because they were on sale, yet they have become firm favourites that I reach for everyday. The concealer (I use shade Cornsilk) is one of the best I have ever tried.

I wish I had bought the entire stock load! Excellent lasting power, coverage, and I even like the pot packaging as it screws tight enough to keep the product fresh. It also contains vitamins A and E. You get a lot of product in there (10g) and it is lasting very well, despite such regular use. I also love Bone lipstick, a pale pinked nude which blanks my pigmented lips prior to another colour, or delivers a flattering nude 'mod' lip.

It is a lot like MAC Fleshpot but somewhat peachier, almost a cross between Myth and Fleshpot (pinker than Myth) but the texture is far superior and less drying. Also, I love the short stubby retro 80s packaging! (So out of date that it's trendy!) Besides, 'Fleshpot' reminds me of serial murderers who become cannibals along the 'continuum of violence'.

MAC Stone lip liner is also worth the hype.

You can use a good ashy brown eyebrow pencil to achieve the same effect. However, I have yet to find a good ashy brown in drugstore version (more on that in a moment) so you may as well just get this one. Just very daintily draw along the outskirts of your lip line: it does work to give the illusion of plumper lips! - Thanks Nicola Pixiwoo!

I have Louise Young to thank for recommending Kryolan TV Paint stick in shade 'AL', an ashy greyed brown that in the same way, perfectly mimics natural shadow and allows me to somewhat soften Le Nose.

My MUD Book (reviewed here) has helped me perfect a technique (drawing a narrowing triangle.) The book does caution though, that nothing can be done to help a profile. Oh well, it's a start.

After recklessly assuming gel liners are all created equal, nothing could be further from the truth. MAC Blacktrack is simply the original and best.

Even Blitz and Glitz, a more interesting and less dramatic black fluidline from MAC, does not last quite so long and essentially lacks the resolute refusal to smudge.

Similarly key to defying the rules of makeup fading, Stila Beach Tint has been a great find.

I apply it under my blusher and it acts as a magnet to keep my rosy cheeks - rosy. There is after all, nothing worse than being confronted by your sallow faced reflection, is there?

Youngblood Liquid Mineral Foundation has been a pleasure to use.
When my skin is looking its best, I adore the light coverage this gives and the faith I have that it acts as skin care with all its infused sea minerals. I use shade Pebble and although a little yellow, it does not oxidise, so I can control it with a little pink-toned powder (MAC Pretty Baby.)

I have really enjoyed my Guerlain eye shadow palette.
Yes it seemed a crime to wreck its beautiful almost jewellery-like design, but the colours do not disappoint: it was worth defacing. The orange is pure and rich; the browns are both very classic; the navy is a subtle inky shade which works with the brown or with the orange. I like that this doesn't waste time on a highlighter (we all have a million of those bland shades) and instead offers you the option of a brown smokey eye or an adventurous orange and blue eye, or a mixture thereof.

I went away over Christmas and took my Trish McEvoy Emergency Eye card (I always wonder what a 'normal person' would make of it if they saw the palette and only caught sight of the name. "What hideous trauma is this that needs an emergency card at all times?? Oh, I see.") The card holds a fantastic and readily available eyebrow shade, perfect for my brows, 'Natural eye definer/ Brow shaper'. I would use it daily but far simpler to pencil them in; I have taken to using Estee Lauder's Automatic brow Duo, a refillable eyebrow pencil in 'Soft Brown'. My Clarins favourite is Chatain, but I've had trouble finding it - so this is a great replacement and very recommended.

I took my Bare Minerals Bare Escentuals brush kit on a long weekend and wondered if I would miss any of my brushes...

The stunning gold sparkle never fails to cheer one's day, and the brushes themselves were all I needed. The Kabuki brush is a particular favourite. Soft, durable, and well designed for easy and neat application.

Illamasqua's Theatre of the Nameless was a collection brimming over with excellent items. (I reviewed this here.) My favourites are the pigments in Berber and Beguile, and the precision ink liner in Havoc. Havoc is a very striking aubergine shade with just the right depth. It stays shiny and deep for hours; I like to wear it alone so it really stands out. What I love about both Beguile pigment and Havoc liner, is that they look very natural and prim: Beguile makes a very usable every day highlighter as the glitter is so very fine - but in the light - it glimmers lurid green! Havoc looks like any black liner, until you notice it is in fact red blooded! I just love that subversion of a classic.

Probably the overall 2011 winner is .... L'Oreal 4D mascara.
(I reviewed this here.) I have a feeling this may actually be my main mascara from now on. It never smudges, and it is buildable and deep black. I highly recommend it, and I usually hate drugstore mascaras for one reason or another.

So just a final word on some disappointments...

Guerlain Black Frida - nothing special and not worth the price. Their Parure de Nuit highlighter this year also was a step down from their brilliant Serie Noire blusher. Their Terra Inca Sublime radiant powder was also a let down for me, as it was way too golden and warm - so unflattering. Chanel nail polish in Black Pearl chipped almost the instant it was applied. MAC creme d'nude has such a legion of fans, yet on me it is very underwhelming and sheer. Rimmel Nude Delight was too orange for a nude, and the smell was the furthest thing from 'delight'.

But, all in all, another great makeup year! Let's hope 2012 holds some good makeup treats.

...Please share your makeup finds and fails below?

BEST of the Christmas gift sets!

2011-12-05T15:06:00.000-08:00

Well it's now December, so about time for the round-up of the very most tempting beauty gift ideas...

As always beauty enthusiasts are spoilt for choice. The best thing is, often these limited edition sets offer great value and mean you can try a range of products in one fell swoop.

I have recently reviewed one of Bare Escentuals' holiday sets, Brush With Fame brush set (£39.) It comes in a spectacular gold bag, with 5 short handled gold brushes: Full Coverage Kabuki Brush, Buffing Eye Brush, Long Tapered Crease Defining Brush, Soft Focus Tapered Liner Brush, and Soft Sweep Cheek Brush. They have two other sets: a £14 set, Flawless and Fearless, which contains a mini Flawless mascara and a mini Pretty Amazing Lip colour -

And, the best set ever, for £49, you get 9 pieces... And Away We Glow is next on my hitlist and I'll be picking it up this week for just under £40 thanks to the Fenwicks/Daily Telegraph evening. It has, Prime Time Primer Shadow in Dove Gray (a perfect taupe shade); Eyecolor in a shimmering moonlight sparkle shade (highlight shade for eyes); New "Round the Clock™ Waterproof Eyeliner in Midnight smoothes on creamy waterproof, long-wearing color loaded with antioxidant vitamin E for a sleek, stay-put line in the perfect midnight black shade"; Turn On Multi-Tasking Highlighter (amazing face highlighter!) "adds a touch of brightness and definition to cheeks, eyes and lips"; New Luxury Blusher "adds a pop of warm coral color to cheeks"; Flawless Definition Mascara in black; New Pretty Amazing™ Lipgloss in Flair (a lovely peachy nude.) And, a Wet/Dry Shadow Brush and Contour Blush Brush.

Murad have some excellent gift sets out called 'Celebrate You!' which offer a great way to save. My favourite is the Embrace Balance, £39.50 (worth £78.50) - this is pink and silver and contains: Energizing Pomegranate Cleanser 50ml, T Zone PoreRefining Gel 60ml (full size), Energizing Pomegranate Moisturiser SPF 15 30ml,Pomegranate Exfoliating Mask 2x 7.5ml.

There's also Get Glowing, £49.50 (worth £84) - this is green and silver and contains: Renewing Cleansing Cream 45ml, Age Diffusing Serum30ml (full size), Sheer Lustre Day Moisture SPF 15 7.5ml, Hydro DynamicUltimate Moisture 7.5ml.

Finally, Renew Radiance, £59.50 (worth £133) - this is orange and silver and contains: Essential-C Cleanser 45ml, Active Radiance Serum 30ml,Essential-C Day Moisture SPF 30 21ml, Hydro Dynamic Ultimate Moisture 7.5ml.

Origins have various skincare gift sets too, but most tempting is this Harrods exclusive Ginger Essence fragrance. It has been given some extra sparkle this year – the bottle is adorned with a mini crystal Christmas Tree Charm made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS. "Exclusive to Harrods this limited edition bottle makes the perfect stocking filler for a loved one or friend. The Christmas Tree Charm is made with SWAROVSKI ELEMENTS – the finest crystal elements manufactured by Swarovski and has been designed in an array of festive colours – Red, Green and Gold." This scent sounds fantastic and certainly looks the part. With top notes including Bergamot, Lemon, Lime, Orange and Grapefruit, middle notes including Ginger, Nutmeg, Cardamom, Clove Bud and Coriander and floral notes of Violet Leaves and Jasmine including Vanilla, Amber and Sandalwood, this sounds ideal for wearing on a cold Christmas Day. £39 for 100ml.

Next up, probably the most innovative and beautiful of all - trust Jo Malone if you need a gift to make a great impression. I recently received the famous Pomegranate Noir candle... it lives up to the hype!

I have often thought Jo Malone looks oddly intellectual, almost like legal briefs - but that is exactly what makes it so ideal to give to your most sober friend or relative. Having said that. Jo Malone has unveiled an unexpected frivolous side with this brilliant Christmas Cracker (£28) which contains a mini Grapefruit Cologne 9ml, a Lime Basil & Mandarin Body & Hand Wash 15ml and a Pomegranate Noir Body Crème 15ml.

Another great fail-safe choice is the Cologne Collection which contains Grapefruit Cologne, Pomegranate Noir Cologne, Wild Bluebell Cologne, Red Roses Cologne, Vanilla & Anise Cologne (9ml each) £62. These sets also break away from the cream theme by featuring a festive red background.

There's also a Travel candle collection (Pomegranate Noir Travel Candle, Roasted Chestnut Travel Candle, Pine & Eucalyptus Travel Candle, 60g each, £60); a pampering collection (Red Roses Bath Oil 30ml, Pomegranate Noir Scatter Candle 30g, English Pear & Freesia Body Crème 15ml. £38), or the popular Roasted Chestnut candle (400g, £80) - and even a 2.5kg Pine and Eucalyptus candle, £260. Jo Malone candles burn very evenly and really do scent a home - it might be a wise investment!? To check out all the products see this link or check out your local Jo Malone counter.

Another perfume which is worth checking out is Estee Lauder Sensuous Nude. I reviewed it here, but now there is a new Body Veil too. If you visit your local Estee Lauder counter, you can sample the scent via a ver innovative Sensuous Nude Tattoo! Simply press it on to release the scent. The perfume is £34 (30ml) and the Body Veil is £31 (200ml.) You simply peel it off to real a charming heart shape. An excellent idea and a lot more fun than a spritz, right?

MAC have their usual Holiday Sets but I am more taken by the Gareth Pugh collection. The packaging looks so modern and confident, yet still very sleek as opposed to brash. The eyelashes in the collection would be a perfect gift for a confident makeup fan. But otherwise, anything from the range is sure to hit the right note.

I will be keeping a keen eye out for any other Christmas treats, do share below if you have seen any...!

Origins Plantscription Anti-aging eye treatment: REVIEW!

2011-12-04T19:19:00.000-08:00

I have been using this since it launched and I must say, it actually seems to be working! I had noticed with some alarm that my crow's feet were getting somewhat visible. Although I do not yet suffer from deep ingrained wrinkles, I did not like seeing the fine lines. I began to religiously apply this morning and night, and I now feel my skin is softer and the lines have plumped out to be vitually invisble. It costs £35 for 15ml so it is more than I would like to spend, but like their witches remedy/dragon tears marvel that is the tiny Spot Remover (have included it in my still accurate HG list here) I feel like now I will be relying on it. The only single reservation I would have is that I'd prefer a squeeze tube, but that is mainly down to the fear that with time and air exposure it might lose its potency...

After using it over a month now, this is what remains:

THE BLURB:

Origins have tested Plantscription Anti-aging eye treatment and claim in 8 weeks, people see clear results -

87% of panelists saw a reduction in the appearance of lines and wrinkles

83% of panelists saw an improvement in the appearance of firmness

83% of panelists saw a reduction in the appearance of under eye cross hatching

83% of panelists saw a reduction in the appearance of under eye troughs

It is formulated with Anogeissus Tree Bark as well as Kombucha (fermented Black Tea) and helps repair the appearance of lines and wrinkles, crepey lids, under eye cross hatching and saggy eye area skin while offering strong collagen-boosting benefits. This potent combination of ingredients helps restore elasticity to the age-hollowed, eye area for more youthful, looking skin.

Kombucha (fermented black tea)

Helps repair the appearance of saggy lids and cross hatching in skin around eye area.

Scutellaria

Helps improve skin tone.

Magnolia

Potent anti-irritant that helps reduce the appearance of dark circles.

ESSENTIAL OILS

Mandarin

Mandarin Orange, with its high Vitamin C content, is native to southeast Asia and the Philippines. It is thought to have descended from oranges that grew in northeast India 3,000 years ago.

Star Anise

Known for its antioxidant benefits, Star Anise is grown almost exclusively in Asia. This star shaped fruit is harvested before ripening, then dried and used as a spice.

Pink Rose

Ancient Romans discovered Pink Rose’s ability to help soothe and calm skin; today it is proven as a topical anti-irritant. It takes approximately 60,000 petals to produce one ounce of its precious oil.

Lavender

Lavender’s use has been documented for over 2,500 years as an herb known for its soothing, relaxing qualities and for being a potent anti-irritant.

Geranium

Native to Cape of Good Hope, South Africa, Geranium oil is known to have anti-irritant properties.

This is packed full of ingredients, I had no idea how complex it was. What I like about it is it is very light and cooling, and I actually feel a tangible 'tightening' as it sets on my skin. Although I didn't take an official 'before' picture, this recent shot from my Illamasqua review made me pause. And here is the current, I think smoothed and softened, 'nude' shot:

...What do you think?

Origins Plantscription Anti aging eye treatment is available from all Origins counters or online at origins.co.uk. (£35 for 15ml.)

GlossyBox: REVIEW!

2011-12-04T18:07:00.000-08:00

When I was very young, I remember I was subscribed to a monthly 'Tinkerbell' package; each package would be filled with delightful trinkets and always had a special letter, once it was written backwards and had to be read in the mirror. I loved those, and would hurry downstairs eager to seize my package. "When you grow up you'll dread the post," my father predicted, "It'll all be bills and Inland Revenue." When my subscription was cancelled he consoled me, "It's two fat men behind a desk."

Well, who knew that all these years later, the same thrill could be re-ignited! Imagine, your doorstep is host to a pile of bills... and then THIS:

I was very kindly sent the October and November GlossyBoxes and the very best thing about these is the immaculate presentation - it instantly brightens up your day. The concept is simple, each month you receive 5 samples, enough to try out a product and decide if you'll invest in the full size. Some months (you can check the archive here) feature amazing full size products, other months are heavily dominated by one brand (e.g my October box had 3 out of 5 products Dermalogica samples) but the general idea is that you are paying £12.95 a month for a surprise selection of 5 novel treats. The October box had a bonus 6th item to celebrate 6 months of GlossyBox but sadly this didn't mean they'd add one every month indefinitely! I am confident that in any given month, you will always get your £12.95 value back - and some months hopefully you will get a spectacular windfall. The boxes are sent Tracked, but you don't need to be in to sign for them, so the idea is that it'll be there waiting for you.

So, let's have a look at my October GlossyBox,

And now the November GlossyBox,

The Arbonne FC5 hand cream (£19 for the full size) is incredible stuff. That is a good example of a product I would never have even looked at, because I use any old hand cream and £19 is precious makeup money. But now I must buy it. And there's the rub... (so to speak) these GlossyBoxes, for us makeup and beauty addicts, are DANGEROUS! I also loved the Dermalogica lip complex (the extra product in October GlossyBox) but it's £22.50 for 1.75ml?! So, if I were to hestitate on my own personal subscription, it would be for fear that if I invite all this temptation into my life, it would be inevitable that I succumb. Of course this is where the brands' advantage lies, this is afterall a fantastic marketing strategy. I am sure that is no secret. In fact it's peculiar no one thought of it before - it seems to be taking off now though! The boxes each come with a card detailing your samples, and if you use your phone app it will take you to the brand website. I would suggest that it would be brilliant if these linked up directly to the product, and if there could always be a little discount to make it all the more appealing. There are often some products with a discount (the fantastic Dead Sea Magik Bath Salts is currently on offer with a code for 25% off, there's 15% off Nail Rock Wraps with a code, and 20% off Philip Kingsley with a code) but ideally it would be the standard and part of the incentive to sign up.

But these are minor gripes and all in all I would confidently recommend GlossyBox. I think it should be marketed to husbands as a painless way to get their wives to remember to treat themselves - you know the women who are so flustered that they have forgotten what it feels like to pamper themselves... I think it is a very good gift idea. Talking of husbands and men in general, GlossyBox for Men has just launched this month. It will be quarterly (i.e every 3 months) and will include 7 samples. With metrosexuals now the standard, I think this is a genius idea.

There are various ways to earn points, GlossyDots, once you are a subscriber - e.g, writing reviews or referring a friend. For every friend you refer you'll be awarded 200 GlossyDots, which go towards your 1000 needed to earn yourself a free GlossyBox.

There are subscription bundles available for 3 months, 6 months, and 12 months. As a Christmas present, it would be a very nice idea to perk up someone's day every month like that. Check out the GlossyBox website, YouTube, Twitter and blog for all the gloss. (squirm, did I really make that pun.)

...Let me know if you have tried GlossyBox?

Ugly bite of truth

2011-11-26T06:44:00.000-08:00

I once mused about Keats' poem which ends, 'Beauty is truth, truth beauty...' I don't know why, but it has always been so perplexing to me, what he meant. In my post I argued perhaps it was the transparency of truth which was beautiful. Or the mastery we feel by the orderliness of knowing what is what and all is in its place. I am old enough to remember the very first series of Big Brother. I hadn't watched a single episode, but for some reason I caught the very last moments of the final. It was Craig (I think? erm, the one who pledged to give it all away to a sick child, anyway.) Watching the moment a 'nobody' becomes a 'somebody' - the 'nobody' cocooned inside a house like a mole, then with a bolt, emerging to a deafening applause; tears, money, fame - who could fail to be moved? Of course as this was the very first series and Big Brother was an unknown concept, this was a genuine evolution which one might argue has been lost since. Reality TV has now become a fixture on our TV schedules, and it is this sense of going on a journey with our protagonist which gives such joy. However, albeit that this concept has long been uncovered and subsequently manipulated, don't let the audience know that! The anger at being duped and taken advantage of is unparalleled, and the very opposite of "truth, beauty."

I wanted to touch on two programmes in the light of this: 'Keeping Up with the Kardashians', and 'The Only Way is Essex'. Both place great store in glamour and offset this with the license which gives them carte blanche: a close family and friends consciousness. I have only caught the odd episode of Keeping Up... but I get the impression that if you've seen one, you've seen them all. The pattern seems to be, some minor disaster (invariably relating to looks or object) followed by making up and realising family comes first (as long as said car/ dress/ hair/ event has been restored in the interim.) The Only Way... is more lighthearted - in that for legal reasons, the introduction clarifies, 'Some scenes have been set up purely for your entertainment.' It subsequently amounts to little more than a badly-acted soap at times, but that is its charm. The appeal of these programmes is to watch as 'nobodies', representing us the everyman, transform and develop into famous 'characters'. But with a meritocracy, the bad side is all the more bitter. At least in a caste system one knows one's place and can blame fate; in a meritocracy, jealousy becomes uncontrollable and failing becomes personal. Hence reality TV will always fall in harm's way.

Recently two of the characters from The Only Way... were attacked. The attack happened in the middle of a season, therefore the attackers became a part of the plot. The characters were featured nursing their wounds, and showed their battered backs to magazines, shared their experience in interviews, and went on to hire minders for future outings. Thus the attackers by proxy were able to indulge in some infamy for themselves.

And Keeping Up... has now been unmasked as a potentially very cynical business. Perez Hilton, the ultimate blogger, tweeted that as a gay man the fact that the sanctity of marriage was so callously thrown aside, was an insult to those who were banned from marriage. Kim Kardashian's 72 day marriage, which obviously represented a huge episode and driving theme for many other episodes, looked like nothing more than a charade. Fans who had wept (yes apparently) to think of their Kim finding her prince (yes really) felt violated. The emotions invested were scattered and the 'cast' have now found themselves defending the reality of their reality show. As this article explains, "People can deal with the wedding being over the top, but to do that and get divorced 72 days later, that is hard to swallow in this economy. When people are struggling to pay bills and rent, it doesn't make average people feel much compassion."

In summary, is this a variation of schadenfreude? You can look beautiful and go to great parties, as long as I can have a hand in ripping you down just at the point when you feel invincible. For reputation, even in this media-controlled age, as the Leveson Inquiry is proving, is sacred. The media wield so much power, and every 'reality' TV 'character', even a subject from the news already suffering untold sorrow, is enslaved by it. Reputation cannot easily be bought, and once lost it is impossible to ever fully restore. As the quote goes, "O, I have lost my reputation! I have lost the immortal part of myself, and what remains is bestial." However, in an age where making a sex-tape is the starting point from which your fame springs, does the quality of your fame/ notoriety matter at all? "I thought you had received some bodily wound; there is more offence in that than in reputation. Reputation is an idle and most false imposition; oft got without merit, and lost without deserving: you have lost no reputation at all..."

The Happy Birthday that would have been...

2011-11-26T06:25:00.000-08:00

It's always tremendously sad when a 'lost' birthday comes around. Today would have been Sophie Lancaster's 25th Birthday. I have already blogged about this horrible attack. I applaud Illamasqua's attachment to the cause, and the ironic belligerence of their message: "Stamp Out Prejudice Hatred and Intolerance Everywhere" (S.O.P.H.I.E) will be a never-ending project, but with enough awareness perhaps it just might work. Find out more about Illamasqua's involvement by watching this film .

You can also win a selection of Sophie-inspired pieces, which if she had still even been in her goth phase, she would have surely loved! You'll get the S.OP.H.I.E black pencil, Pure Pigment in Zeitgeist, Intense Lipgoss in Repulse, Nail Varnish in Unnatural, False Eye Lashes in no. 21, and the S.O.P.H.I.E Wristband (as pictured above.) Click here to enter. Winner will be announced on 28th November.

Murad Hybrids Makeup: Review and Swatches

2011-11-13T15:27:00.000-08:00

Murad, one of my favourite skincare lines, has finally now branched into makeup. Starting with primers and undereye concealers, Jeff Murad assured me at a recent launch event that next in the works will be a melanin activating bronzer, various blushers, an acne/oil controlling tinted primer, and a fully developed makeup line.

I have been testing the two available primers for months now so here is my review. The main reason it took so long is that I like to test skincare for longer, just to be sure. These 'Skin Perfecting Primers' currently come in two variations, 'Dewy' finish or ''Matte' finish. They retail at £27 (30ml) and here are some of the claims:

Minimizes the appearance of pores while balancing oil production
Adaptive Shade Technology creates a perfect skin tone match
Improves skin grain by tightening dilated pores
Soothes and reduces inflammation
Protects against UV induced free radicals to preserve and improve skin elasticity, firmness and tone.

I would agree, shockingly, with the promise that one shade fits all. At the launch event, it really did seem to work on every skin tone. The coverage is sheer and not designed to be buildable; however if you have virtually flawless skin, this will very visibly even out your skintone (but not conceal any major darkness or redness.) I had the feeling the Matte was fractionally darker and more neutral toned than the possibly lighter and warmer toned Dewy, but perhaps that is due to it being somewhat more dense. I tried one on each side of my face and they both blended in without trace. Both are pleasantly lightweight and very easy to apply. They also lent my face a luminosity.

Sadly I found neither could cope with my natural 'shine.' It did not extend the wear of my foundation, however it did work brilliantly underneath mineral loose foundations to make them adhere better to the skin. With my normal liquid foundations (I'm currently using Youngblood liquid mineral foundation) it did not change the wear, although it did sometimes mean I used less foundation. I am looking forward to the 'Acne and Shine Control' version, as I feel that would probably worst best with my oily skin and benefit me far more. Incidentally, both the Matte and the Dewy versions are oil free, so I had no problems with either, and they blend effortlessly into the skin. Here they are just prior to blending:

above: Matte

above: Dewy

above: L-R Matte, Dewy, Eye Lift Perfector, Eye Lift Illuminator

as above, spread

as above, the dry-down

The other two products are for under eyes. Firstly, the Eye Lift Perfector. (£25) This is the more concealing of the two, but it is very lightweight. The tips on these are anti-bacterial and are soft rubberised feel. They are clearly designed with sensitive eyes in mind. You twist to release product, so be careful not to turn it more than needed.

The claims on this are:

Increase skin firmness by 50% in 15 minutes
Minimize the appearance of dark circles

I did find this very comforting first thing in the morning, and refreshing. But, it does not offer enough coverage, so I have had to use it as a layering product. I think for young skin or those who prefer natural looking makeup this will be ideal but for anyone past their teens seeking true coverage this will need to be used more as skincare than as makeup (at least for me.) I am hoping in time it might help lessen my dark shadows so I'll keep you posted...

The final makeup product I have been using is the Eye Lift Illuminator. (£25) This is a very subtle and sheer lilac which I was advised is best used on the outer portion of the eye to lift it and act as a highlighter. Again, this promises to increase skin firmness by 50% in 15 minutes. I have been using it as a highlighter and it's extremely comforting to use in the morning, very cool on the skin and it does give some energy back to my eyes, however I noticed this product does not like to be mixed with any other makeup - as soon as I put my foundation on top, it began flaking. Again, possibly this is best for those who wear less makeup than I do, and prefer a more imperceptible lift.

I am so pleased that one of the most reliable skincare brands are branching into makeup, I always like the thought that my makeup is actively helping my skin. I will continue to incorporate these products into my routine, and especially if they can come up with one with serious shine control!

I have also tested a sample of their new moisturiser, Hydro-Dynamic Ultimate Moisture, £59, (50ml) - "the most hydrating moisturiser Murad has ever offered."

It promises,

Ultra-concentrated, silky moisturizing cream offers immediate and long lasting hydration providing positively radiant skin
Avocado, Sunflower and Olive Fruit Oils enhance skin’s ability to retain maximum levels of hydration
Retinyl Palmitate and Shea Butter improve texture and while restoring natural smoothness and softness
Collagen Support Complex boosts skin’s resilience and plumps dehydrated skin
Locks in moisture for 8 hours

Of course, this was far richer than my usual moisturiser, but I used it at night. Despite its oil content I did not feel it was greasy, and actually I rather liked it used very sparingly. I will continue to use this, although I suspect that sadly it will not replace my very favourite, Active Radiance Serum. (£95)

I must finally thank Murad for such a fantastic event, I was treated to a glycolic peel which made my skin instantly a thousand times better! Dr Murad and his son Jeff are wonderful and the brand is one that has truly been crafted from a real knowledge of how skin responds to treatment. If you have never tried Murad I suggest you start with a cleanser, you'll soon be hooked. (My current favourite is the Essential- C Cleanser.)

Murad products are available from Harrods and leading salons and spas nationwide including the May Fair Hotel Spa. For stockists call 0844 472 7050 or visit www.murad.co.uk

The last taboo?

2011-11-13T14:47:00.000-08:00

It is so hard to shock nowadays... Sexual product names? yawn. Swear words or anagrams? Not amusing even the first time, double yawn. S&M? So commercial! Androgny? Well now we've finally had male to female, that's exhausted. Drug use? Yes, it'll get the ad banned, but so 90s. Wait - what's this, pedophilia?

The new Marc Jacobs fragrance, 'Oh, Lola!' apparently takes its cue from his own so creative use of a perfume bottle as codpiece. But here it is 17 year old Dakota Fanning, prizing the tall bottle between her dress. Subtlety is a wasted art to Marc Jacobs it seems.

What did you think, should the ad have been banned or is 17 too old to be considered a 'child'? What is the last taboo? Would an ad campaign actually make you boycott the product if you disagreed on moral grounds?

Evelyn Lauder : August 12, 1936 – November 12, 2011

2011-11-13T13:42:00.000-08:00

Evelyn Lauder has died, aged 75, from complications of non-genetic ovarian cancer.

Despite having been such a staunch and visible advocate of Breast Cancer Awareness, Evelyn Lauder never referred to the fact that she herself had been a cancer survivor, surviving both early-stage breast cancer and ovarian cancer. It was not until an interview in 2009 with WWD that she even acknowledged any association at all, and even then she discounted her case as merely “a scare.” At the recent Breast Cancer Awareness event I went to, we were told that Evelyn Lauder's classic response, when asked by journalists whether she had a personal link to the disease, was: ' What difference would it make if I had?'

The Estee Lauder brand, despite being a huge orchestrated body of various other household names, still retained its family heritage and human face thanks to Evelyn Lauder's regular personal appearances with Elizabeth Hurley, and her eponymous BCA lipstick editions. At the October event, we were also told that at its inception, the very idea of mentioning the word 'breast' so openly was anathema. The pink ribbon was largely Evelyn Lauder's creation, and is now instantly recognised as a symbol of breast cancer.

Her belief that one day breast cancer would be eliminated, or at least managed, fuelled her passion to raise awareness. She also opened a breast cancer centre,

“I wanted to have the mall of medicine,” Lauder told WWD as the Center was opening in October 2009. “I wanted everything under one roof. I was on the board at Memorial Sloan-Kettering and at the time, the doctor who was in charge of the hospital said they were building a breast center. And I said, ‘Oh, this is fabulous. What are you going to have in the breast center?’ So he said, ‘We’re going to have oncology and we’re going to have mammography. I said, ‘Is that it?’ He says, ‘Well, what else do you want?’ And I said, ‘Well, I would want physical therapy, psychological counseling, an education center so that we could pick up information in either leaflets or online, nutritional counseling, a pharmacy so you don’t have to go running around the city to get everything, a boutique that might sell all the needs of a woman while she’s waiting for reconstruction to get the right bra and do whatever is necessary — bathing suits, you know?’” The 150,000-square-foot facility is a bricks-and-mortar testament to her vision.

It is arguable that Evelyn Lauder was the first to get a deep-rooted partnership between the beauty industry, and charity; the very idea that by treating yourself to luxury you can simultaneously give money and publicity to an important cause. And it never seemed to have any ulterior motive, any hint of scoring points, or of marketing acumen - though of course, Evelyn Lauder had plenty of that - she launched many now ubiquitous perfumes, handpicked brand ambassadors and scouted out Bumble & Bumble. Her legacy is undeniable, and I feel so sad at her passing. This article gives an intimate view of the person behind the brand, and is very much worth a read.

John Carne Knightsbridge1st Anniversary Drinks evening - You're invited!

2011-10-21T15:10:00.000-07:00

Do you remember my fabulous hair makeover?

The John Carne hair boutique in Knightsbridge are now celebrating their One Year anniversary. Congratulations!

This Wednesday 26th, from 6pm they'll be holding a drinks and canapes evening - so if you are in the area, please come along! (I am definitely going to try and make it if I can.)

Ellie and Sean are so adorable and really know their art. If you get an appointment you'll get the full luxury treatment guaranteed.

How to prove your concealer is the best...

2011-10-21T07:30:00.001-07:00

Yes Kat Von D thought of it first, but Zombie Boy's conceptual tattoo really has become his very identity. Dermablend have shot a promotional video which seems to literally erase everything. It almost looks too convincing; a makeup remover - let alone the makeup itself - that wipes off in one go like that?! But apparently it's true.

This is a great advert, it certainly makes me want to try Dermablend again. I tried the concealer years ago but don't remember what I thought. (The fact I never re-bought it seems to hint I found some fault; nevertheless, this demo makes me want to give it a second chance pronto.) Poor Rick Genest, it looks like a very uncomfortable makeover/ makeunder. He did a great job and I think his natural charisma helps any brand.

Dermablend's rather hackneyed "Go beyond the cover / How do you judge a book?" tagline doesn't really break new ground, and seeing Zombie Boy's little scrawny physique undermines his awesome image, just a tad... But, I still say this is a Great Advert.

What is the best way to prove a concealer's performance? I suppose covering a tattoo is more palatable than a graphic demo of covering up acne scars and port wine stains...? Does it convince you, or would you rather see genuine skin complaints erased?

Illamasqua Debut Fragrance sounds interesting....

2011-10-18T16:18:00.000-07:00

"I am bottled Midnight," promises the advert.

The bottle sits on its side and has a sweet silver snail perched on top. There are lots of octopuses in the Alex Box artwork. It's a unisex fragrance (these are usually my fave) and it's an EDP! It's £59 for 75ml. Out from 20th October in time for Halloween, it's already available to pre-order online. To celebrate the imminent launch, you could win tickets to the Masked Halloween Ball organised by The Last Tuesday Society which is now sold out! It looks so much fun, I'm jealous. You get 2 tickets, £200 spending money, and a dance lesson on the night! To enter this competition and be in with a chance of winning a place on the guestlist to the decadent party, simply visit http://www.illamasqua.com/maskedball/

But HURRY! Competition closes online at 11.59pm GMT Wednesday 19th October 2011. Winner to be drawn at random and notified on Thursday 20th October 2011. This competition is open internationally.

TOP NOTES: Black Davana, Opium Flower and Belladonna bewitch the senses into uncontrollable lust and passion.

HEART NOTES: Poison Hemlock, Datura and Queen of the Night blossom, caress and kiss.

BASE NOTES: Aromas of Frankincense, Oud and Myrrh, addictively mesmerises and captures the senses.

Flitting playfully from floral to a woody balsamic, the rich and exotic opening notes of Black Davana casts a magical spell of desire across the senses. This compelling burnt orange bloom base is highly prized the world over for its ability to enhance the wearer's natural perfume. The subtle mustiness of Poison Hemlock haunts the background tone of Freak, adding alluring depths of mystery. Datura, the Moonflower, an intoxicating scent that has long been used as a heady aphrodisiac. The exquisitely rare Queen of the Night blooms fleetingly for a single night each year, and completes this daringly provocative concoction with its warm, soft floral scent touched with sweetness.

Great new haircare finds! (For mangled highlighted hair)

2011-10-04T15:11:00.000-07:00

I have been experiencing the novelty of smooth, shiny hair... And in addition to my treasured Schwarzkopf BC Silver shampoo and the divine smelling Seah Blossom Wrap Conditioning Lotion, I think I've found another couple of wonder products. One is a professional product and comes in neat capsules that dare I say looks appetising?!

Firstly, those capsules:

This is a new haircare range by Indola, called Innova and these are the Repair Capsules. The range pitches itself as 'Think Smart. Think Indola' and aims for the young, trendy and discerning. You get 30 capsules, 1ml each. [£10.99] I used 1 capsule on my short hair - so thick or long hair might need more than one. As soon as I put it in (damp hair) it became instantly manageable. Blow drying it straight was a breeze. I love Clynol Look At Me Centre Stage Smoothing Styling Cream for that purpose - but these capsules are a rich, intense version for me right now. Top marks. I adore them and especially enjoy twisting their little tails off to release the oil!

Next is the much-advertised L'Oreal Elvive Full Restore 5 60 Second Saviour [£4.99, 200ml.] I was skeptical, having confined myself to exclusively salon-grade ranges. But I must say, from the very first use, it works. It seems to really nourish my hair, and for the low price point, this is a solid buy for anyone. And it really does work within 60 seconds!

Now my other Indola Innova recommendations are the Non Aerosol Spray [£7.70 for 300ml] which is part of their 'Finish' range. The collection is divided and colour coded accordingly. There's 'Colour', 'Repair', 'Hydrate', 'Specialists', 'Setting', 'Texture', and 'Finish.'

I like this because it delivers a good hold without harming the environment! For some reason I feel inordinately guilty about using aerosol spray cans! And now I can heartily recommend you switch too. It still smells reassuringly like hairspray and although it squirts out the product, it dries instantly and never gave me a heavy or lacklustre result. My favourite is still the Clynol Look at Me Delicious Boosting Hairspray, but I am going to try and just use this one now!

And, from the 'Setting' range I decided to try the Thermal Protector

[£7.70 for 300ml]

I always blowdry my hair with my divine most treasured possession (the hallowed Parlux 3200) and thought it might be wise to protect my hair for once. This contains moisturising silk extracts and wheat protein, and hopefully it did help...

So finally, I might give you a quick and hazy shot of my new hair.

I just had it coloured with bleached highlights and permanent hair dye. It was actually done using a base colour from Schwarzkopf Igora, so I will be interested to see how that lasts - I'm usually used to Wella Koleston. It's darker than it was, now it's a rather ashy brown with a few cool toned blonde streaks... I'm not sure if I like it all that much as yet... But, at least it looks shiny and surprisingly smooth at all times, thanks to my latest finds.

Let me know if you try any! Or any other hair saviours....?

(For more information about Indola, visit www.indola.com or call 01296 314 000 for stockists.)

Make up Gaming

2011-10-04T14:53:00.000-07:00

Just found this and it is so brilliant! La Roux Tigerlily soundtracks a myriad of Dior treats. I was never into video gaming but maybe that was before they came in makeup promotion versions...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AsJJ3iNA0_4&feature=player_embedded

It's a stark contrast to their current J'Adore ad, which shamelessly plunders old Hollywood archive footage. (Apparently Marilyn Monroe shunned Chanel no.5 and is actually a Dior advocate now.)

Kleenex Skincare: Review

2011-10-03T17:17:00.000-07:00

I would put a gratuitous picture of Tom Hardy... No, purely for academic purposes. But instead let's just have this one. In fact, apparently Kleenex began life not as a simply functional tissue, but as a beauty product. And now they have launched eye makeup remover wipes (24 wipes, £2.99) Facial cleansing wipes (24 wipes, £2.99) Facial Cloths (30 cloths, £1.99) and Shine Absorbing Sheets (50 sheets £2.99)

I have been testing the range and actually noticed yesterday in Superdrug that these were all Half Price, making them even cheaper. The price point is great. I have really enjoyed the cloths as they are so multifunctional. They are gentle and thick - perfect for eye makeup removal, toner, or especially for nail polish removal without making any mess. I think these are an excellent addition to the Kleenex brand.

The eye makeup removal wipes are designed for Sensitive skin and were very gentle. However I found I had trouble taking off ALL my heavy eye makeup after a night out; for everyday mascara removal these are fine though. The Facial wipes were a similar story but they did remove everything eventually and my skin felt very clean after. Because these are not too moist, they never leave a film on your skin.

The Shine Absorbing sheets are deep purple colour, and I enjoy carrying them in my handbag. I need quite a few on my shiny forehead but for normal people these really do stick to your oily patches and don't seem to remove foundation, so that's a relief!

My favourite, and certainly the item that harks back to Kleenex's roots, is the Facial Cloths. These are soft and quilted and I think every household needs them! I am off to Superdrug in the hope that I can stock up pronto.

Available from Superdrug and other selected stores. See Kleenex.co.uk for stockists.

BCA Breast Cancer Awareness - Products and WEBSITE

2011-10-03T13:20:00.000-07:00

Estee Lauder have JUST launched their new website, where you can light the whole world pink! Click here to see how it works... http://www.facebook.com/BCACampaign and “Shine A Light on Breast Cancer.”

As it is now BCA month (every October) it's that time of year when limited edition pink goodies come out. Never before has being greedy been so admirable. I have already shown you the Elizabeth Hurley 'Lavish Pink' lipstick ensemble, and mentioned the Evelyn Lauder counterpart. Now for the other treats...

Aveda Hand Relief™

DESCRIPTION: Incredibly rich moisture therapy soothes dry hands,
leaving them noticeably softer and smoother. Hydrating plant-derived
emollients, humectants, exfoliating fruit acids as well as antioxidants,
including vitamins A and E, help diminish signs of ageing and provide
optimal relief. For the month of October the limited edition Hand Relief
is specially packaged in a 150ml tube featuring a pink ribbon design.
SIZE: 150ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £17.50
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
Aveda will donate £2 with the purchase of every BCA
dedicated Hand Relief purchased during October in the UK
to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: This limited edition Aveda Hand Relief
is available in Aveda salons, spas and stockists and online
at www.aveda.co.uk from 1st October. While stocks last.

Clinique Great Skin, Great Cause

DESCRIPTION: In support of Breast Cancer Awareness Month Clinique
has created New Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector
50ml with a special edition miniature picture frame key chain adorned
with a heart-shaped ribbon charm.
SIZE: 50ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £52
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
From every purchase of this special edition Repairwear Laser Focus
Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector sold in the UK during October,
£4 will go to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: Selfridges. While stocks last.

Clinique Great Lips, Great Cause

DESCRIPTION: To help raise awareness for Breast Cancer Awareness
Month, Clinique has created a limited-edition collectable key ring.
The Great Lips, Great Cause key ring features a heart-shaped ribbon
charm, Clinique “C” charm and three mini-Long Last Glosswear SPF 15
glosses in best selling Clearly Pink, Air Kiss and Cabana Crush.
It is the perfect opportunity to look good while doing good.
SIZE: 3 x 1ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £15
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
From every purchase of this limited edition
Great Lips, Great Cause key ring sold in the UK
during October, £2 will go to The Breast Cancer
Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: Clinique counters at Boots.
While stocks last.

DARPHIN Intral Redness Relief Soothing Serum

DESCRIPTION: Following Pierre Darphin’s expertise, creator of the first
serums in 1958 in his Parisian Institute, Darphin has stayed true to its
legacy while developing new formulations processed through an approach
of a pharmacist and tested in the professional Parisian Institute. The Intral
Redness Relief Soothing Serum is Pierre Darphin’s original formulation
and is dedicated to sensitive skin prone to irritations. It has been designed
to help diminish the appearance of redness and quiet the appearance of
irritations as it softens skin.
SIZE: 30ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £46
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
£5 from each Intral Redness Relief Soothing Serum purchased
in the UK during October will be donated to The Breast Cancer
Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: For stockists call 0870 034 2566

Donna karan cosmetics
Limited Edition Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Candle

DESCRIPTION: Like the luxurious
fabric that inspired it, Cashmere Mist
is a fragrance that evokes passion.
Women simply love it, seeking to
embrace their senses with it in every
way imaginable. Light up an evening
with the aromatic sensation of the
Cashmere Mist Candle that instantly
seduces any room. An elegant accent
to every decor, the lightly fragranced
candle comes in a classic cylindrically shaped
frosted glass, burning for
approximately 36 hours. To support
The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®,
this limited edition of the Cashmere Mist
Candle will include a Pink Ribbon deco
on the carton.
HEIGHT: 5.08cm
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £29
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
Donna Karan Cosmetics will make a donation of £1
for each Donna Karan Cashmere Mist Candle purchased in the UK during
October to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation*.
AVAILABLE AT: John Lewis Partnership stores and Harrods, Knightsbridge,
London. While stocks last.

ESTÉE LAUDER Perfectionist [CP+] Wrinkle Lifting Serum
with Pink Keychain

DESCRIPTION: In honour of Breast Cancer Awareness Month,
a limited-edition pink keychain has been added to Perfectionist [CP+]
as a way to show your support of Breast Cancer Awareness.
This powerful wrinkle-correcting serum dramatically reduces
the appearance of lines, wrinkles and age spots.
SIZE: 50ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £62
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
Estée Lauder will donate £10 with the purchase of each
Perfectionist [CP+] Wrinkle Lifting Serum with Pink Keychain
in the UK during October to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: All Estée Lauder counters. While stocks last.

ESTÉE LAUDER Ribbon Pin

DESCRIPTION: This twinkling pin is a simple, elegant way to show your support
of Breast Cancer Awareness. Covered in deep pink crystals with a jewellery pin
backing closure, the pin is packaged in a newly designed Pink Ribbon carton.
We know that breast cancer doesn’t just affect women.
That’s why this year, a blue stone has been added to our
pin to represent the approximately 1% of all people
who are diagnosed with this disease that are men,
and the countless men who are impacted through the
diagnosis of a loved one.
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £10
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
Estée Lauder will donate all of the recommended retail
price of all pins purchased in the UK during October,
less VAT, to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: Selected Estée Lauder counters. While stocks last.

JO MALONE Red Roses Body & Hand Wash

DESCRIPTION: Blended from seven different types of roses
from around the world, Red Roses is a clean voluptuous
scent with a heart of crushed violet leaves and a hint of lemon.
Enjoy it as it unfolds like a bouquet of freshly cut flowers.
SIZE: 250ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £30
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
Jo Malone will donate £5 with every purchase of
Red Roses Body and Hand Wash purchased in the
UK during October to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: All Jo Malone UK boutiques and concessions,
jomalone.co.uk and Jo Malone Express Mail Order.
While stocks last.

ORIGINS Make A Difference™

Skin rejuvenating treatment
DESCRIPTION: Designed for all skin types, this uniquely
textured cream-gel moisturizer helps restore and rejuvenate
the appearance of damaged and dehydrated skin.
Make A Difference™ contains a clinically proven plant
complex including Rose of Jericho, Trehalose and
Padina Pavonica, which prepares your skin for maximum
repair and helps it rebound from dramatic dehydration.
Micrococcus Lysate, a resourceful, light-resistant oceanic
flora, helps repair an ageing appearance due to UV and
environmental exposure. Skin can resume a youthfully
smooth look and feel as hydration returns to its optimal level.
SIZE: 30ml
SUGGESTED RETAIL PRICE: £21
AMOUNT OF DONATION:
In recognition of Breast Cancer Awareness Month,
during October, Origins will donate £3 from every
UK purchase to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation®.
AVAILABLE AT: All Origins counters. While stocks last.

Screen Siren for one evening

2011-09-29T16:27:00.000-07:00

Another event I will not be able to go to, but it sounds so fantastic I don't want anyone else to miss out. Illamasqua will be teaming up with The National Portrait Gallery to set up as a film studio for one night only, providing makeovers worthy of your debut.

That's right: at the door you pick up your 'NPG contract', then enter the 'NPG Film Studio' and you're escorted into one of seven 'star-making departments' for a vintage glamour makeup transformation. It's inspired by the National Portrait Gallery's current exhibition Glamour of the Gods: Hollywood Portraits.

"Pose in a black & white photography studio and visit The Broken Hearts Cocktail Lounge for drinks, swing music and cabaret.

You can also go to the movies and watch Fred Astaire and Ginger Rogers, hear talks on gender, clothes and beauty, take part in vintage styling and drawing classes and participate in a Vintage Twitter Bureau @NPGGlamour with vintage typewriters.

A drawing class will show the art of making Gloria Swanson's Marcel Waves, setting Lauren Bacall's rollers or greasing James Dean's slick back with specially styled models (as well as providing expert advice on how to draw and learn a good hairdo!) In a gallery based debate Is Gender an Illusion? clinical psychologists Dr Polly Carmichael and Dr Victoria Holt will explore notions of identity and unpick the confusion of chromosomes."

It's on FRIDAY 7th October [6-9pm]

**All events are free but tickets are required for some activities and 20% of Illamasqua’s Vintage Glamour course will be available on the day.

Illamasqua have just been nominated for 'Best Brand Blog' in Cosmopolitan's 2011 Blog Awards! I absolutely love their blog, check it out here to read about the NPG event. I always enjoy their posts as you often forget it is a Brand blog at all. It's one of my favourites and I will definitely vote for them. You can too, at this link:
http://www.cosmopolitan.co.uk/blog-awards-2011-vote

Meet Elizabeth Hurley at London Selfridges tomorrow! Estee Lauder BCA

2011-09-28T14:31:00.001-07:00

BCA, Breast Cancer Awareness, is now in full swing. October is the month to binge on makeup delights with a clean conscience. The ubiquitous pink ribbon was actually the brainchild of Eveyln Lauder, and is a cause that she fervently believes in. Elizabeth Hurley has been a spokesmodel for the brand for 16 years and particularly for the BCA initiative, even helping to break a Guiness World Record last year.

This year, tomorrow (29th September 2011) at 12pm you can meet Elizabeth Hurley and she will sign products.

I actually have her Estee Lauder Elizabeth Hurley Pink Ribbon Collection and as always it's a great formula and such a very universal pretty pink.This version is Lavish Pink, it's a neutral pink with gold shimmer; Evelyn Lauder has her own deeper pink version, Wildly Pink. Priced at £18.50 for the lipstick and pink wallet, £5 goes directly to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation.

Later tomorrow, at 8pm, Elizabeth Hurley will be lighting Selfridges up in pink.

This year's theme puts the focus on our power together to raise awareness. The crystal Pink Ribbon brooch also for the first time includes a solitary blue stone. This represents not only the existence of Breast Cancer in men, but also the power of the support of the family or spouse, who though unaffected by the disease, suffer - and deserve recognition. The brooch is £10 and all proceeds go directly to support the cause.

For those in Edinburgh, Elizabeth Hurley will be making a personal appearance at Jenners from 1-2pm on Tuesday (4th October) and then at 6pm she will light up the beautiful facade pink.

The Estee Lauder group have come out in strength to lavish us beauty lovers with treats celebrating pink and marking the success of BCA. Aveda, Clinique, Jo Malone, Donna Karan, Origins and of course Estee Lauder; all have special limited edition products out throughout October. More info to follow...

I thought I would end by adding in an interview I was sent, to showcase Evelyn Lauder's passion for this cause and explain the power Estee Lauder has already had.

Q&A WITH EVELYN H. LAUDER SENIOR CORPORATE VICE PRESIDENT, THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES INC. FOUNDER AND CHAIRMAN, THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION®

WHAT INSPIRED YOU TO GET INVOLVED WITH RAISING AWARENESS AND FUNDS TO HELP FIGHT BREAST CANCER?

In the 1980’s, I was initially inspired by a video produced by Look Good…Feel Better, an organization that helps women undergoing cancer treatments by improving their self-image and appearance through self-help beauty sessions that create a sense of support, confidence, courage and community. At the time, AIDS was being widely recognized as an epidemic and much of the world’s attention was focused on this disease; however tens of thousands of women were dying from breast cancer and much less attention was being paid to this cause. I realized that there was a need to help women become better informed about breast health. Women of the world needed a voice and much more needed to be done to raise awareness. Look at us now! Since 1992, when I co-created the Pink Ribbon and millions of informational brochures with SELF Magazine, The Estée Lauder Companies’ Breast Cancer Awareness (BCA) Campaign will have distributed close to 115 million Pink Ribbons and millions of informational brochures around the world, and thanks to the millions of dollars donated to research, early detection is saving lives and we are coming ever closer to finding a cure. The BCA Campaign is now present in more than 70 countries and its mission is to raise awareness about the importance of breast health and early detection, and to raise funds for research. By October 2011, close to $50 million in contributions to The Breast Cancer Research Foundation® will have been raised by The Estée Lauder Companies’ brands and employees globally, and through fundraising initiatiatives with our wonderful retail partners. Knowledge is power and the purpose of The Estée Lauder Companies’ BCA Campaign is to reduce fear in the minds of women all over the world through increased awareness about the importance of breast health and early detection. The more a woman knows about her body, the more she knows about her health, the more proactive she is, the more in control she is, the less frightened she is. If you reduce fear, women are far better able to cope with any kind of diagnosis. They take control.

Today, each and every survivor inspires me to get out there and do more. Everywhere I travel, I meet people who are aware of breast cancer because of receiving a Pink Ribbon, or because of something someone at an Estée Lauder Companies’ brand counter said to them, or they saw an illumination and decided to get a mammogram. I am also inspired and energized when I meet our customers around the world and see firsthand what they are doing to save lives. The actions on the part of so many people inspire all of us to keep fighting. There’s an old saying I truly believe: “If you save the life of one person, you save the entire world.”

WHY IS IT SO IMPORTANT TO CONTINUE TO RAISE AWARENESS?

Breast cancer continues to be the most commonly diagnosed cancer in women excluding skin cancer. The good news is that the mortality rate continues to decline. This is believed to be the result of early detection and more effective treatments. We know that if a localized breast cancer is detected early, it is 98% curable. We need to make our voices heard around the world by reaching everyone with the message that early detection saves lives and by giving as much support as we can to do research. We must rid the world of this disease in our lifetime.

WHAT WAS THE INSPIRATION BEHIND THIS YEAR’S BREAST CANCER AWARENESS THEME?

Last year, our focus was “Connect. Communicate. Conquer. Prevent Breast Cancer One Woman At A Time.” This year, we wanted to raise the bar by pulling TOGETHER as many people as possible to unite for this cause.
Imagine how loud our voices would be if we unite to spread the message of the importance of breast health and that early detection saves lives. We will make an even bigger impact, save more lives and raise even more funds to rid the world of breast cancer once and for all! This October, during Breast Cancer Awareness month, it is my hope that everyone can join Together in unison for this cause. If we all connect and communicate with everyone we know, and show support through wearing a Pink Ribbon, we can obtain a future free of breast cancer.

WHY DID YOU CHOOSE PINK AS THE SYMBOLIC COLOR FOR THE BCA CAMPAIGN AND THE PINK RIBBON?

When a baby is born, boys are associated with the color light blue and girls with the color light pink. Because pink is the color that represents femininity, it was a natural choice to represent awareness of breast cancer, which affects women so predominantly. Eventually, I turned the color of our Pink Ribbon to hot pink to symbolize my drive to turn up the heat on breast cancer and raise awareness with ferocity. Making the color so brilliant stressed how important it is to find a cure. This year, a blue stone has been added to our Estée Lauder Jeweled Pink Ribbon Pin to represent the men who have been affected by breast cancer. Approximately, 1% of all people who are diagnosed with this disease are men, and countless men are impacted through the diagnoses of a loved one. Sometimes I can hardly believe that we have distributed close to 115 million Pink Ribbons around the world. It’s amazing that we have come so far.

WHAT IS THE SIGNIFICANCE OF THE ADDITION OF THE BLUE SWAROVSKI CRYSTAL TO THE JEWELED PINK RIBBON PIN THIS YEAR?

I added a beautiful blue Swarovski crystal to our jeweled Pink Ribbon pin this year because we don’t want to overlook the fact that men are directly impacted by this disease as well. The American Cancer Society reports that statistics of men being diagnosed with breast cancer are much lower – about 2,000 men were diagnosed with breast cancer in 2010 and 390 died – however, we want to ensure that men have as strong of a support network as women. In addition, this disease does not just affect the people diagnosed with it, but it also impacts their friends, family and loved ones, including husbands, wives, sons, daughters, sisters, brothers, and many, many others.

WHAT WOULD YOU TELL WOMEN WHO HAVE JUST DISCOVERED THEY HAVE CANCER
TO GIVE THEM HOPE AND COMFORT? WHAT ABOUT WOMEN WHO HAVE LOVED ONES SUFFERING FROM THE DISEASE?

The good news is that more people are surviving every single year so, firstly, never give up. Go to a breast specialist or a teaching hospital if possible. Following the advice of your oncologist and surgeon is very important. Many of today’s treatments are more tolerable than in the past, and there are excellent targeted treatments which affect the tumor only (rather than the entire body) that have been, and continue to be, developed. Additionally, there are many effective drugs that now control the side effects of chemotherapy. Many women are living with the cancer as a chronic illness.

Don’t be afraid of breast cancer. Don’t be afraid to do breast self-examinations or to have a clinical breast exam as part of a regular doctor’s visit. Don’t be afraid to have regular mammograms if you’re over the age of 40. Don’t be afraid – or wait – to go to your doctor if you find a lump or suspect something.

WHAT IS MISSING FROM THE CURRENT CONVERSATION REGARDING BREAST CANCER, AND WHAT ARE YOU DOING TO BRING THIS TO PEOPLE’S ATTENTION?

I believe awareness has become extremely popular. People are more conscious than ever of what they really need to do. What is truly missing is commitment to funding research, which is what will ultimately cure and prevent breast cancer. Budgets have been cut for the National Cancer Institute and all federally funded cancer research programs. In addition, pharmaceutical companies are facing budget pressures and many have cut back on their investment in cancer research. As a result, the private sector has had to step in to make up for the loss. It’s a fact that with additional research, new targeted treatments could be made available. Even prevention strategies, such as vaccines, could be made available that would enable us to prevent not only breast cancer, but many other types of cancer as well.

COULD YOU TELL US THE KEY ACHIEVEMENTS TO DATE OF THE BREAST CANCER RESEARCH FOUNDATION?

I founded The Breast Cancer Research Foundation® (BCRF) in 1993 to address a crucial lack of funding for clinical research in breast cancer at that time. BCRF very quickly embraced not only clinical research, but translational laboratory studies aimed at improving patient care. BCRF is an independent not-for-profit 501(c)(3) that in 2010-2011 is supporting 172 scientists at leading medical centers worldwide. BCRF grant dollars have provided crucial support for clinical studies that have directly benefited breast cancer care. For instance, the development of successful new breast cancer treatments such as Herceptin® and Avastin®, the finding that low-fat diet and regular exercise may help prevent breast cancer recurrence and also may delay the age of onset in individuals at high risk, and insights into the connection between genetics and external factors in breast cancer development were all made possible by BCRF-supported investigations.

BCRF grants have also resulted in important laboratory studies crucial to the eradication of breast cancer. These include the discovery of new genes that may protect against the development of breast cancer and others that conversely may increase risk, the finding of new pathways and drug targets, the identification of accurate markers for risk assessment and response to therapy, and knowledge of how breast cancer-initiating cells (cancer “stem cells”) develop and spread.

The Estée Lauder Companies’ BCA Campaign and BCRF are making a difference and saving lives in their separate ways. Knowing that what we are doing is making a difference is very inspiring to me.

DO YOU HAVE ANY ADVICE FOR WOMEN HOPING TO MAKE A DIFFERENCE IN THE WORLD LIKE YOU HAVE?

Follow your passions and follow your heart. Don’t be afraid to make tough decisions and never give up.

WHAT IS THE IMPORTANCE OF THE GLOBAL LANDMARK ILLUMINATIONS INITIATIVE THAT THE ESTÉE LAUDER COMPANIES DOES EACH YEAR?

We kicked off our Global Landmark Illuminations Initiative in 2000 to remind women across the world in a new and exciting way about the importance of breast health and to encourage women to get a mammogram every year if over the age of 40. It’s a dramatic call to action and a way for The BCA Campaign to raise awareness globally. We have illuminated more than 600 unique landmarks since 2000 and I’m thrilled to say that we established a new Guinness World Record “Most Landmarks Illuminated for a Cause in 24 Hours” in 2010. It has been very rewarding to see this program expand and to now light approximately 200 landmarks around the world in pink every October.

MORE INFO: http://www.bcrfcure.org/
http://www.esteelauder.co.uk/about/breast_cancer_awareness_pinkribbon.tmpl

Illamasqua: Free Shipping!!! And UPDATES...

2011-09-15T16:32:00.000-07:00

Alex Box recently featured in Stylist magazine. Her brief: to represent her favourite Art movements via makeup. A task made for her! The images chosen reference Cubism, Dadaism, Post Modernism, Romanticism, and Baroque.

My favourite is the Dadaism,

followed by the Post Modernism,

There's also an interview with Alex Box.

In other news, more clues regarding the long-anticipated first Illamasqua perfume...due to launch at the end of October.

"We are very excited to introduce the new aptly named FREAK to you very very soon, but to whet your appetite, I'm going to let slip the following...

... it's a sexy, sultry Eau de Parfum

... Freak is a concoction of dangerously exotic unconventional flowers which we have unashamedly blended together to celebrate the night...

... we have three Limited Edition products that glisten and glow to help you reveal your inner Freak, inspired by the freak's midnight blooms."

I am so intrigued to hear what these flowers are - I'm thinking and hoping something like Annick Goutal Mandragore? And those limited edition glistening products sound good!

In the meantime, until this Sunday 18th September, ALL UK orders will receive FREE UK Standard delivery! If you don't have Beguile, you need it - and Depravity. The latest collection is the best yet. Go to Illamasqua website now. For UK orders just enter AWUK at the checkout and enjoy!

*Pictures from Stylist magazine.

Estee Lauder for Derek Lam SS 2012

2011-09-15T15:51:00.000-07:00

Inspired by the iconic clean minimalism and open desert landscape of the Kaufmann house by Richard Neutra in Palm Springs, Tom Pecheux has created a soft haze of yellow and copper with a "sheer golden lip."

Most excitingly, check out all the new products...

Eyes: NEW limited edition Pure Color EyeShadow Palette – Yellow shade (#5) used – launching Spring 2012

NEW limited edition Pure Color Cyber Eyes Collection – launching November 2011:
Pure Color Gelée Powder EyeShadow in Cyber Copper
Pure Color Gelée Powder EyeShadow in Cyber Green
Pure Color Intense Kajal EyeLiner in Blackened Olive
Sumptuous Extreme Mascara in Extreme Copper

Lips: NEW limited edition Pure Color Gloss in Citron Kiss – launching Spring 2012

Cheeks: NEW Pure Color Blush tested backstage– launching Spring 2012

NEW limited edition Gelée Bronzer tested backstage – launching Spring 2012

Face: NEW foundation tested backstage– launching March 2012

Wow... I am already looking forward to the Citron Kiss lipgloss; that new blusher colour; the new foundation; the copper mascara, and the Blackened Olive Kajal!

This is the fourth consecutive season Estee Lauder have teamed up with Derek Lam, and the show featured Estee Lauder spokesmodels Liu Wen and Joan Smalls. (pictured above)

The fashion itself as you can see was clearly referencing the Kaufmann House in Palm Springs. Lam wrote in the show presentation notes, “My mind is wandering to a place of salubrious comfort . . . Frank Sinatra and the Rat Pack crooning by the piano and Angie Dickinson lounging by a crystal blue pool.”

The makeup captures that languid tone perfectly. View more images of the show on Vogue.com

Makeup: Tom Pecheux for Estée Lauder
Nails: Jin Soon Choi for Estée Lauder
Photos: Courtesy of Estée Lauder,
& also Vogue.com

Sun / Damaged Hair Care

2011-09-15T15:43:00.001-07:00

Many of us forget that just as skin needs protecting from the sun, so too does our hair. Hair typically suffers a deluge of abuse, and it's quite hard to find anything to mask - let alone repair - the damage. I have been testing out various remedies and some have definitely stood out...

My favourite is a shampoo which I was thrilled with, Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Shampoo (£9.30) - The Repair range uses "Biomimetic Technology" which apparently recreates the hair's structure! It has indeed actually reinvigorated my horribly overdyed hair and really has restored it to health. It claims to repair the hair from the inside out, and is a lightweight formula with an understated salon scent. I definitely recommend this - it's so hard to find a nourishing shampoo which isn't heavy and greasy! Top marks on all counts.

If you have grey, white or blonde/ highlighted hair, you may find you will benefit from Schwarzkopf Professional BC Colour Save Silver Shampoo (£9.30) This to me, has all the benefits of Repair Rescue, but also instantly refreshes and enlivens my highlights. I will never be without it!!! This consistently gets rave reviews, so my voice simply joins that crowd.

The Repair range also includes Sealed Ends (£11.30) which smoothes and apparently prevents split ends.

I have found this works nicely to keep down flyaway hairs, and again it is lightweight so never leaves hair greasy. It has a salon smell and feel too, a soft gel liquid consistency that is easy to use. A little goes a long way, and this is also a good addition to my hair routine. Though I have tried several similar products - this might be best for really frizzy hair.

Other products in this extensive Repair collection include 'Instant Repair Shot', an in-salon treatment; 'Smooth Express', a 30 second sachet remedy for thick unruly hair; 'Treatment', an intensive hair mask, 'Creme Shampoo', a rich version of the shampoo suitable for thick umanageable hair, and 'Conditioner'.

Schwarzkopf also specialise in colour preservation and their BC Bonacure Color Save Post Color Service is a box of little tubes which have helped extend the life of my colour. I really did notice an improvement. I am not sure if these are easily bought, I believe they may be designed as an in-salon treatment but if you can find them they are brilliant!

The sun care range by Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure is designed to be the perfect holiday haircare. I have tried the Sun Protect Spray (£10.45) which is lightweight and has UV protection. It smells very pleasant and faintly sweet. The Sun Protect After Sun Treatment (£11.80) smells great and has a foam texture.

It smells of holidays and really does soothe parched hair. This is the only product I took with me on holiday in sweltering temperatures, and my hair certainly looked better for it. I still use it as a hair mask, for the smell alone it's worth it! I like this product a lot as it seems to absorb quickly.

Clynol have now long been a favourite of mine, I have quite a few of their products as must-haves already. Their Intense After Sun mask (£9.65) features apricot kernel Oil to increase shine and provides UV filters. This is best on towel dried hair for ten minutes and leaves hair shiny and easy to comb. I also tried the De-Stress 24 Hr After Sun Conditioner (£9.45)
It is a very lightweight UV protecting leave in treatment which promises to reduce breakage up to 80%! I like that this never leaves hair cloying, yet it does feel nourishing.

Clynol have also just launched their "Care and Style Collection." These are products designed for stylists and that salon perfect finish. There are dozens of new products, each divided by colour-coded category.

Within the 'Repair' line, I am so thrilled with the NEW Remedy Keratin Filler (£10.15) Just a few sprays and my hair felt seriously soft and literally my hair has not looked this good in years. I am so excited to see how much better my hair will get, if this is what happens after one use. This and the Schwarzkopf Silver shampoo were my absolute standouts and ones that I will not be without (at least, for as long as I continue to regularly dye my hair.)

The 'Texture' line includes Powder Punch Volumising Powder (£10), launched in sleek new packaging.

It's a lot like Osis "Dust It" but with even more hold and volume. It literally can recreate backcombing without the effort! I think this would be especially impressive for long hair.

Texty Hold Matte Gum (£7.50) comes in a generous tub and reminds me of my faithful Osis "Mess Up" but better value as it's cheaper! I love this for creating real shape and texture, or even as a smoothing device. I like the refreshing salon smell too.

Finally within the 'Finish' collection I have tried the Animator Strong Hairspray (£8.70) which works well. I have used it to preserve today's good hair day so I'm hoping it delivers. It adds shine and has ensured even in blustery weather my hair returns to form.

My top picks:
-Schwarzkopf Professional BC Colour Save Silver Shampoo (if you are blonde/highlighted; white/ silver haired)
-Schwarzkopf Professional BC Repair Rescue Shampoo
-Schwarzkopf BC Bonacure Color Save Post Color Service
-Schwarzkopf Sun Protect After Sun Treatment
-Clynol NEW Remedy Keratin Filler
-Clynol Texty Hold Matte Gum

To find your nearest Schwarzkopf stockist call 01296 314 000 or log in to http://www.schwarzkopf.co.uk/

http://www.hairsupermarket.com/ sell at great prices so I'm stocking up on that shampoo pronto!

For Clynol,online at www.hairsupermarket.com / www.beautybay.com - for further stockist information please contact 01296 314000 or visit www.clynol.com.

Illamasqua Theatre of the Nameless is out now... more hauling

2011-09-08T16:32:00.000-07:00

I promised that as soon as Illamasqua released this collection I would be right back for Berber pigment. This evening I passed by the Beak St flagship store for its 1 Year anniversary, and thought I'd quickly share what Berber looks like worn sedately.

I also picked up a BACKUP of Beguile as I have used it every day since I got it, as a face highlighter. It is surprisingly subtle and I swear every time I wear it, cars stop to let me go by and people generally seem to appreciate my "natural" glow. Seriously a beautiful pigment and very unique. The makeup artist used it here as an inner eye highlight.

I also snatched up Raindrops nail polish for a fiver. I really like it! It's a dove grey with sparkle.

(By the way I am wearing Havoc Precision ink liner as well.
*Sorry for the rushed pics but you get the idea...)

Illamasqua Theatre of the Nameless - Review and Swatches!

2011-09-02T15:47:00.000-07:00

I think I always say, "This is the best Collection yet!" but seriously - this is great stuff!!! Illamasqua's previous collection, Toxic Nature, had some real standouts (e.g I still wear 'Delirium' on a regular basis) but somehow there was not the real punch of grim darkness that Illamasqua do so well. This time, there is no compromise: Illamasqua give us the perfection of murky, dark sparkle. Exciting shades and a really expansive mix; a very balanced collection. There are - Two new blushers; three new lipglosses (one, a rosy pink called 'Belladona' is an online exclusive); a new mascara - sorry, Masquara - three new pigments; two new cream pigments; a new lipstick; two false eyelashes, and four new nail polishes!

This is Theatre of the Nameless, the new collection which looks to Germany in the 1920s for inspiration, with Weimar period icons such as Anita Berber, the doomed flame haired scandalously androgynous actress, to the Boot girls who colour co-ordinated their shoelaces to their talents. This dubious source was quickly forgotten as David Horne, the talented and charming artistic brain behind it all (as handpicked by Alex Box) exclaimed as he sprinkled a load of Pure pigment 'Beguile' in the air and all over his lovely dark suit jacket, "I just thought it was hilarious how they colour coded their boots like that." Indeed, seen in the abstract, it is quirky and translates well into the range of rubber finish ("like candle wax") nail polishes. There's 'Taint' (stone brown) 'Kink' (bottle green) 'Vice' (deep cerise) and 'Faux Pas' (blue violet - as seen on my nails below.) Check out the competition to win these HERE (Hurry - competition ends on Sunday 4th!)

The new Precision Ink in 'Havoc' is described by Illamasqua thus: "Havoc lets you scrawl hidden messages across your naked flesh, to be discovered at midnight by your secret lover." (So excuse me if this post is rushed.) As yet at the time of writing I can only attest to its powers as an eyeliner. I wore it all day today, through an unexpected heat wave and a great workout at the gym, and this held up as excellently, as expected. Previous incarnations have been brilliant, and this is actually my favourite so far. It is aubergine but very dark, only a glint of aubergine - too much red purple makes my eyes look very tired. I highly recommend it and it was on my wishlist, so when I saw I'd been given one I couldn't believe my luck!

'Havoc' lined below, contrast it with my top black liquid line.

The Pure Pigments are truly captivating, I have come to realise that Illamasqua pigments are very distinctive and not similar to MAC at all, they are much finer (they do not 'ball up') and they almost remind me of a MAC Reflects pigment but with a heavy pigmented base. I received 'Beguile' and at first, seeing its unapologetic glittery sparkle, I mentally relegated it to 'strictly for inner eye only.' But in the interests of fair experimentation I tried it as a face highlighter. David Horne described it as having a wet, water look to it. But his jacket said disco frenzy. However, on the face I am shocked to report that the glitter is so very fine that it really does take on a wet shine. Wet shine is so hard to achieve with a dry pigment! And unlike 'Static' this eschews a purple duochrome for a green glint.

My only reservation is, seeing the state of my other Illamasqua pigments, how to keep it neat? (does anyone have any tips? My pigment always flies out when I open them.) The other Pure Pigment, 'Berber' is a brilliant - again, David Horne's words: "Rust shot through with Absinth." It's a deep brick red but with very noticeable lime green sparkle. Although red is usually so hard to look good in, I think the green will really help make this a flattering yet showstopping shade. The depth of colour is magnificent. Then there is 'Zeitgeist', a black pigment with tons of sparkle. It is like a true black version of 'Android' (another fave.)

The Cream pigments are 'Androgen', a slightly reddened coral which works equally as a beard cover up or a blusher; and 'Depravity' which I wore today and LOVED. Purple is my favourite colour, and this is my favourite version of purple. Purple eyes can be very old fashioned, especially lilac, but this is a vibrant pinky purple that is very young. I wore it with no base and it faded to a pinker shade, which I still adored, and it didn't crease much at all. I have found that some of Illamasqua's Cream pigments crease very quickly (e.g 'Dab') but others, like 'Delirium' and now 'Depravity' last fairly well even without a base. I will in future probably wear 'Depravity' over a primer to keep it looking its best though. I am even going to break my 'no-matchy' rule and wear this with magenta purple tomorrow.

'Depravity' above, after fading for about 5 hours to a more pink hue

The blushers reminded me of NARS Sin and Oasis or Orgasm. They are both shimmer blushers, 'Ambition' is a neutal tone but very shimmery; 'Morale' was a very attractive wine shade with just the right shine to it. The packaging looks especially good as that big pinched square compact. The new lipglosses are 'Facade', which is like a liquid version of 'Hollow' pigment; 'Violate' which is supposedly in their sheer range but goes on a wonderful deep green sparkle, just the right side of brave. The two eyelashes are 'Grandeur', a sumptuous black flicked design; and 'Weimar', of which only 500 have been made (and this is the only L.E item in the collection.) The Weimar lashes are black and extravagant, with red tips which almost glow in the light. Very daring yet also very wearable. Aside from the dark purple blue lipstick 'Kontrol', everything seems very wearable - and yet still subversive. This is exactly Illamasaqua's forte.

I cannot wait to get myself 'Berber' to add to my collection.

Theatre of the Nameless is out now online, and launches across counters globally on 8th September.

-Full Product details and Prices -

Nail Varnish, £13.50

Taint (Stone Brown)
Kink (Bottle Green)
Vice (Deep Cerise)
Faux Pas (Blue Violet)

Cream Pigment, matte £17.00

Androgen(Coral)
Depravity (Magenta)

Masquara £15.00

Raven (Midnight Black)

Pure Pigment, metallic £15.50

Zeitgeist (Dark Shimmer)
Beguile (Light Shimmer)
Berber (Auburn Shimmer)

Precision Ink, £17.00

Havoc (Aubergine)

False Eye Lashes, £16.00

The Theatre of the Nameless brings two new lashes to our extensive handmade range of styles and colours – the fluttering, tapered extravagance of the aptly named Grandeur and the thick, long, luxurious Blackened Auburn Weimar.

Shimmer Blusher, £16.50

Ambition (Neutral)
Morale (Rosed Flush)

Intense Lipgloss, £13.00

Façade (Grey Pink)

Sheer Lipgloss, £13.00

Violate (Dark Green Shimmer)

Lipstick, £15.50

Kontrol (Blue Violet)

~Thank you to Illamasqua for a wonderful preview evening, not to mention the delicious Weimar cocktail!

Sophie Lancaster: Remembered and Celebrated

2011-08-24T19:40:00.000-07:00

After listening to the heart-wrenching Radio 4 Afternoon Play - Black Roses: The Killing of Sophie Lancaster I felt I 'knew' her a little more. Sophie Lancaseter died 4 years to the day, 24th August 2007. The radio programme did an impeccable job bringing her to life, beyond the flat image I had of a rebellious "mosher"/"goth"/"emo". With carefully composed poems by Simon Armitage, Sophie is seen as warm, eager, intelligent and full of spirit and hope. The black clothes and dreadlocks were indeed, as Illamasqua has it, an "alter ego." It is therfore a perfect commemoration to her that Illamasqua has championed her cause; given her name and the eponymous Foundation a great deal of publicity - and ultimately, to stand for bold colour and a quirky, brave makeup style.

Hearing Sophie's mother Sylvia was very difficult. I know from personal experience that losing a loved one is almost impossible to bear; listening to her remember the dreadful memories, "It were horrible, it were horrible" - her lilting northern accent emanated such pain. It is clear that in her brief life Sophie had a wonderful mother, one who supported her when -let's face it- most mothers would be livid! Sylvia said that when Sophie decided to be a Goth, far from being an outsider, it was actually the moment she began to belong.

Being a Goth is part of a clique and has its own set of rules, just like being a yob (not sure what they call themselves?) or any number of different identities that are not unique. The trouble is, Sophie and her boyfriend Rob were not out to harm anyone, maybe Goths do enjoy that frisson of the stuffy soberly garbed who pull away as they walk by, but that is the extent of their aggression. The yobs who killed Sophie were literally young bored teenagers - some only 15 years old. Fights happen all the time, and heads are kicked in. It is usually GBH but sometimes the miracle return to health does not happen. It happened with Rob, but as a slight, small 5'1, Sophie Lancaster did not get the lucky recovery. People forget - be it through abusing their own body with drugs, alcohol, bad diet, or beating flesh and bone - we are not made of steel and life is fragile. Even with the recent riots, it is these same aimless young teens who feel so bored and so bereft of hope, that anyone with a forceful self-worth and imposing identity, would be a provocation.

I was in tears as Sylvia recounted Sophie's death. The absolute senslessness of the crime, which as the judge said, was like a pack of animals hunting, but here for no purpose at all. Reading the transcript of the 999 call is nothing short of agonising. I just hope in prison these criminals have been educated, as according to reports at the time, the accused and his mother were laughing about it?! It is Illamasqua's aim to help raise funds for the SOPHIE (Stamp Out Prejudice Hatred and Intolerance Everywhere) message with interactive school based Youth Workshops and games, to avoid this ever happening in future.

Please check out the newly commisioned video here to find out more.

A slave to Fashion?

2011-08-22T13:03:00.000-07:00

Remember the furore over MAC and Rodarte, so damaging that it never saw the light of day? My initial blog post was certainly not in line with the overriding anger and disgust felt by many, though I came to see the mess it became. I have also blogged about "Beauty from an Ugly Source" so the age old question as to whether Beauty has to be borne out of purity is getting tired. Nevertheless, fresh waves of horror greeted the news that Vogue suggests "Slave earrings" are back! To quote the Vogue Italia article, "If the name brings to the mind the decorative traditions of the women of colour who were brought to the southern Unites States during the slave trade, the latest interpretation is pure freedom."

Like the MAC saga, initially attempts were made to back-peddle. The title "Slave Earrings" mutated to "Ethnic Earrings" but the text still referred to "women of colour...brought to the United States." Outrage was not assuaged, this prosaic description still undermined the horror of the slave trade and unnecessarily glamourised it. Like MAC, the only way was to ERASE it all. the post now stands in picture form, the text simply reads in bold: WE'VE DECIDED TO REMOVE THE ARTICLE FROM THE SITE TO PROVE OUR GOOD FAITH AND TO SHOW IT WASN'T OUR INTENTION TO INSULT ANYONE

The pictures still loom, like the MAC Rodarte ghostly promo pictures, a clear taunt to what was there before. It is even more odd because three years ago Vogue Italia caused a sensation in the fashion industry with its "black issue" featuring only black models. It went on to become the magazine's biggest-selling issue ever.

New lemming...

2011-08-19T14:07:00.000-07:00

Trish McEvoy Power of Tools brush collection...

These work out at less than £20 a piece, with a brush roll thrown in too! This represents a great saving, and I can vouch for the brushes in Trish McEvoy's sets being equally as perfect as the full size. I do have the last edition (video review here) but these look even better as that lust-worthy skunk brush is included! - If you don't have amazing brushes yet, now is the time to get yourself kitted out!

I can't wait to check this out in person.

~Out now at Trish McEvoy counters.

...Do you have any current lemmings?

Time for another Survey: Your Beauty Data Required!

2011-08-11T05:31:00.000-07:00

Being a gloomy rainy day in London, both literally and metaphorically (those terrifying riots) I don't feel my plans for bright summer makeup will ever take off at this rate. Does the weather affect your choices... I blogged about this ages ago and about makeup for the workplace and I've blogged about how makeup must change as you age and whether mere mortals can even get away with movie star makeovers anyway but this time I mean everything: Is makeup really affected by all that: the weather, the situation and your age... Or is it personal and fired by your own internal soul and nothing else? How individual is your makeup, and how much dictated by events outside your control?

The fact that luxury products and consumerism generally have enraged these youths to the point that they feel they are positively "owed" that lifestyle is very bewildering. Does our stern criticism need to be reflected by austere makeup and sober garb? Probably.

Survey up there

Estee Lauder Modern Mercury Autumn 2011: Swatches and review!

2011-08-10T14:54:00.000-07:00

Following on from my last post, I now present the other products making up Modern Mercury. Tom Pecheux has breathed new life into the brand and now there are more colours than ever to be had... But first, the Limited Edition collection itself.

Currently available online and on counters, Modern Mercury is a limited edition collection, it consists of 3 eyeshadow duos (£22.50) in Modern Mercury, Black Chrome and Platinums. Modern Mercury is a sage and pale highlighter duo, Black Chrome is a mix of different black finishes for a truly dramatic smoky eye, and Platinums is a sophisticated pinked frosty taupe partnered with a great buildable white - which when studied has a multitude of miscroscopic green and pink glitter. The duos work perfectly in harmony.

Platinums:

There are 3 new liquid eyeliners (£19.) Black Quartz, Graphite and the -gasp- already sold out Silver Zinc. Black Quartz and Graphite have a lot of glamour about them, lots of suspended glitter but still a deep dark base. Silver Zinc however is the standout and is well worth tracking down at your local counter! A changeable silverish goldish greenish, well yes zinc is pretty accurate. It is a very beautiful liner and I love to wear it with nude eyes and mascara. I have usually worn the liner thick so that it really is the main attraction. It would look especially great on blondes!

Silver Zinc eyeliner:

Next there are 3 new lipsticks (£18.50) - and each one is a classic! I love these the best of all. Each has a matte velvet texture so gives a really modern effect. Saturated colour yet not drying at all. I am fast becoming convinced that Estee Lauder make the best lipsticks out there... Simply named Nude Velvet, Fuschia Velvet and Red Velvet. Nude velvet is a real nude, but rather a rosewood nude so I reckon it would suit most people. Red Velvet is a gorgeous somewhat pinky rich red, I adored it. And Fuschia Velvet is a hot bright slightly berry pink for the bravest of lipstick wearers.

Fuschia Velvet (applied):

Then of course there is Metallic Sage nail polish (£14) (reviewed last post) and,
the intriguing new highlighter (£28), Modern Mercury -aargh sold out too- Hunt this one down!!! It is a very odd texture, one blogger (the wonderful Charlotte lipglossiping) told me it felt like wet powder, and that is indeed what it's like! It is so richly smooth and pigmented, and can be used wet for a high frost finish. It's an amber gold which would look best on pale to medium skin.

Now onto the thankfully permanent new 5 pan palettes (£35) and duos (£22.50). There are 40 new colours! Each compact mixes finishes and they are cleverly assembled, with just the right mix of frost, satin and matte. You also get a lot of product so these are great value and will last. The duos are 4.5g and the larger palettes have nearly 8g. My favourites are Island Sands and Desert Heat. They are just so easy to wear, and give a polished look instantly. Island Sands is almost matte, it's a very modern mix of shades which would suit anyone, especially if you are pale.

Island Sands:

.

Desert Heat (swatched):

I have trouble with warm shades but the pale matte amber reminds me of MAC Soba but a lot more flattering. The olive shade is a lot like MAC Sumptuous Olive but has a silver glean.

Surreal Skies is very similar, a few more frosts but again a very classic and reliable selection of browns and golds:

Enchanted Berries is the warm counterpart to my beloved Violet Orchids palette. I prefer blue toned purples but for those who like their purples rich and warm, this palette is perfect:

Both palettes compared here:

Enchanted Berries:

The rosey taupe looks like MAC Rose Gold pigment but in a great formulation. The two deep wine purples are similar but one is matte (like MAC Shadowy Lady) and one is somewhat more pink toned and frosty.

Moving on to the duos, this is Moons:

It comprises a deep charcoal and an opal which in some lights takes on a pink hue. These work excellently together! Deceptively simple.

Here is Raisins duo. It is similar to Enchanted Berries, i.e a warm reddish plum base with a corresponding highlighter shade.

My favourite duo is certainly Vanilla Pops. I adore it. Perfect smooth satin finish, rich pigment and wearable for everyday. This reminds me of suede. The taupe here is very similar to Platinums, if a little less frosty and slightly lighter. Swatched below, and with Platinums (left):

There is more! A whole new lipstick range with 12 shades called Sensuous Rouge (£20) which have a "soft centre"!

- and there's a new addition to the Sensuous perfume range, Sensuous Nude. I'll be posting a video review of Sensuous Nude (from £34) so check that here. It's an EDP and it really does last all day, at least 6 hours with no trouble at all. Very much a skinscent, it will no doubt have a legion of fans.

Green nails are now sophisticated...

2011-07-29T15:20:00.000-07:00

Tom Pecheux has done it again. Estee Lauder have a brilliant new collection out, and as their mastermind explains, "My inspiration for this collection comes from the creative reflections found in modern architecture, in the phenomenal modern buildings that are like pieces of art. The buildings never, ever look the same colour because they are reflecting what is around them. It is the same idea with this collection, you are wearing the same makeup, but you never end up looking the same way."

Indeed! This is Green nails, but not as you know it. This green is murky, old gold. A colour which captures a sheen or a tint at every turn. At times khaki, at times brown, at times burnished gold...

It's the new limited edition nail polish called "Metallic Sage" for their upcoming "Modern Mercury" Autumn 2011 collection - available online from 1st August. (£14.)

I could not wait to take off my nail polish and apply this instead - and I really do believe that Estee Lauder have one of the best formulas. Once you apply, it literally will last and last. e.g I love Chanel's polish colours, but they chip almost instantly - so they are now banished. These nails will not lose their lustre until I remove the polish. I love that!

I attended the Preview event so I have some of the makeup to test out too. With names like Black Chrome, Modern Mercury, Nude Velvet... you can tell instantly that there'll be plenty of desirable shades! There is also a fresh take on the Sensuous perfume range, Sensuous Nude. I'll review the perfume and makeup separately once I have put them through their paces. I'll leave you with the official group shot for now:

I'm excited to update you so watch this space for more info shortly....!

Best Drugstore mascara!!!

2011-07-24T12:26:00.000-07:00

My previous concession to the world of drugstore mascaras was MaxFactor Masterpiece. Its thin brush and intricate bristles meant it was perfect for lengthening. Then Barry M brought out their 3 in 1 mascara for about a fiver and it was rather similar to Masterpiece at half the cost... But, I ultimately abandoned both, as I missed the double deal of length and volume which my high end Lancome Hypnose always delivered. Now I am not going to say that this mascara quite matched Lancome Hypnose HG... But it cetainly reminds me of it, and that in itself is quite remarkable!

Introducing, the best drugstore mascara that I have yet tried, L’Oréal Paris Lash Architect 4D mascara (£10.99)

The concept behind 4D is: 1D volumised, 2D legthened, 3D texturised, 4D curved. And, as far -fetched as it seems, I really do think it does work like that!

The mascara wand is fairly thin and set at an angle, making it easy to catch each lash. The fibres actually do a marvellous job of multiplying your lashes, the colour is a satisfying black - and best of all, this did not smudge throughout the day. I think its greatest strength is lengthening and texturising, it was not quite as volumising or curling as my Hypnose. But it was buildable and never made my lashes feel crunchy and brittle like some drugstore mascaras have done, nor did it have any noticeable scent or anything at all that would stop me from buying it in future. In short, I definitely recommend this!

Amy Winehouse 1983 - 2011

2011-07-23T09:56:00.000-07:00

There have been appalling news headlines lately and now, another tragedy. Of course the horrifying events in Norway, with at least 93 dead: innocent teenagers shot by a cold-blooded extremist; represents a bewildering malevolence. Yet that does not diminish the terrible nature of Amy Winehouse's untimely death at 27 years old.

Like other talented artists before her, Amy Winehouse became a victim of her success. The cause of death is unknown at this stage, but the speculation is that her addictions have killed her. Addiction is almost impossible to beat, and to compound this, often the victim feels absolutely invincible. Amy Winehouse's inevitable death will no doubt enshrine her. The glamour of drugs and alcohol must be tarnished, it's unbearable. The fact that now this so-called "27 Club" is being heavily reported and noted, will only further entrench the allure of drug-taking. Worse still, drugs arguably will be seen as a rite of passage for any serious and true musician, especially so for jazz, soul or rock; a chance to prove their mettle.

Amy Winehouse admitted that she had manic depression, and that her hair became bigger the less confident she felt; her tattoos were a pain she enjoyed; her self-harm also, a companion to her sorrow; her drinking and drug-taking synonymous with her very identity, so much so that all these facets were impossible to sacrifice. Her winged eyeliner, so extreme that it was more egyptian than 60s, also became her hallmark. It is tempting to blame her sometime husband for 'introducing' her to hard drugs and tipping the balance - but in truth, in those 'showbiz' circles, it wouldn't have taken long before it was someone else offering. Amy Winehouse was susceptible.

In an era when it's so difficult to stand out, and even looking "alternative" has in itself become a fashion trend with its own unwritten, harshly judged rules, Amy Winehouse truly managed to create a recognisable image. Her hair, tattoos, makeup and fashion was all her own invention, and that naturally deep voice - which has been now silenced forever - had effortlessly evoked pain, empathy and hope, to unite a wide-ranging audience from young to old and across cultures.

Plenty of hackneyed phrases will be used; platitudes will ring out, but let's now mark this blog post with the assurance that she has left her mark, and indeed it'll only take a bouffant black hairstyle and that winged eyeliner, before she is remembered afresh.

Killing off the Competition

2011-07-23T03:58:00.001-07:00

Illamasqua again... I have just read about their new competition and think it sounds great!

They also have a short film to illustrate this process of literally "killing off" your old self. Vicky McClure is a fantastic model for the brand, and gives a characteristically stylish and compelling performance. I just wish she didn't smoke in the adverts, as I really don't think smoking should be associated with Beauty, and they have done this over and over now! Nevertheless, it was very interesting to watch the behind the scenes and of course the final edits. By the end, I really did want to buy the exciting new products, though it seems this is more of a retrospective on Illamasqua's existing line - there is a new mascara on the way however. The close-ups of the makeup were casually done, and all the more powerful for it. Combining Beauty and Death and Violence is always oddly effective.

If you want to win a brilliant prize, which includes "Staying in a luxury London hotel whilst attending exclusive events like London Fashion Week, the Illamasqua fragrance launch, a course at the Illamasqua School of make-up Art, an alter-ego makeover with a key Illamasqua make-up artist, a shopping spree worth £500 with a personal stylist and tickets to top London shows for you and a friend" - then all you need do is delete all your photos and painstakingly assembled Facebook profile (don't worry, you can keep your friends.) It is so hilarious and sadly true that your Facebook profile is your public self and altering it is so intrinsic to your actual self. I don't have a Facebook anymore - probably because of all that! - but maybe I'll quickly mock one up for this to tear it down?! How very postmodern. If you can actually hold the nerve to deleting your Facebook profile that is indeed as dramatic as Death and Murder to many. But do the winnings might make it worthwhile? I will be interested to see how this most unusual competition turns out.

...Thoughts??

Dead Beautiful

2011-07-14T10:26:00.000-07:00

"You look like death" is set to become a compliment, as Illamasqua's latest enterprise is to revitalise (so to speak) the trend for open casket funerals. Illamasqua have teamed up with established funeral directors 'Leverton and Sons', to offer "The Final Act of Self-Expression."

Illamasqua artists who are up to it, will be specially trained. I had never thought about it, but as the body is dead, not only are all lively natural colours eliminated, but the way makeup is absorbed is utterly different and very tricky indeed. The skin can take on an oily appearance, aside from its grey and weirdly relaxed new guise (yes, the silver lining is that muscles are relaxed so you get that botox effect.) Sometimes, car paint is used, or other rather morbid special makeup which won't need body heat to break it down. Illamasqua apparently will use existing formulas but I am not certain of the details. What is clear though, is that Illamasqua are keen to break away from the old-fashioned, and frankly not glamour or art orientated manifestations of mortuary "feature setting." Generally, the idea of embalming and making up a corpse was, at least initially, simply intended for mimicking (and inevitably failing at) the recreation of a person as they were in life. This interesting video shows actor Richard Wilson's experience at an embalming school.

Illamasqua make life easier (or is that, make death easier) by turning the theatrics on. Their promo image depicts a worryingly young victim, with bold red lipstick and bold blue eyeshadow. A somewhat scandalous idealisation of Death. The lady lies defiant in her casket, not a serene sleeping being as of yesteryear's made up bodies: this is a proud and carefully thought out final moment by which the true makeup fan says 'adieu'.

Would I have it? I must say no. For one thing, I would not be able to live with the knowledge that once I was dead someone else would be tasked with doing my eyeliner just right - and if they don't, no one will be there to chide them. Illamasqua do offer to go through the look with you in advance, and as such I would have to be best friends with my artists to trust them to that extent! Personally I would never get an open casket, so my views are redundant anyway. I think in US open caskets are more common than in UK. I tend to think death is best kept hidden as far as possible, and the time for flaunting your makeup is in life. But, if you did heaven forbid get snatched away before your makeup stash is emptied (ok so that's all of us) then maybe it would be nice to think it gets one last outing?!
...I am undecided on the concept, what about you?

I do think it's a great idea though, and gives the brand yet another edge.

Redness be gone - Instant makeup FIX!

2011-06-05T16:27:00.000-07:00

I have found a perfect solution to instantly remove all trace of redness. It was originally intended to help me stifle the effects of tired eyes, and indeed that is its raison d'etre. BUT, I have started using it daily as a very natural looking and convincing cover-up for redness around the nose, and on any blemishes. It even, dare I say, seems to help my skin. And the SPF20 is reassuring.

It is....

Bare Escentuals Well Rested for Eyes.

A yellow powder with a great, fine texture - that nevertheless offers quite full coverage if patted on with their excellent concealer brush. It also does work nicely on eyes, but the real spectacular performance is surprisingly as a redness eraser. Try it!

- You can even see how it attacks the pinkness in my hand!

£15.30 for 0.85g pot here, and as with all Bare Escentuals products, it should last a long while.

Buy it at all Bare Escentuals counters and boutiques, or check their website online.

Sensitive scalp? New colour range launched for you...

2011-05-24T15:51:00.000-07:00

Igora Senea (by Schwarzkopf) is the first hair permanent colour to be recommended by independent dermatologists. It has been tested and approved by the highly respected ProDerm Institute for Applied Dermatoligical Research, who confirm that the range is, "exceptionally mild on the skin and suitable for individuals with delicate scalps." It was also tested on 30 women who suffer from sensitve scalps, 95% confirmed it was absolutely comfortable.

As many as one in three women report scalp sensitivity, and anyone familiar with colouring their hair has at some point no doubt suffered the burning irritation for themselves! Igora Senea has been specifically tailored and developed for those with a delicate scalp. The range comes in 36 shades and two developers, so there needn't be any compromise on your favourite shade. It can even be used on hair which is up to 90% white.

There's also a range of take home products - Senea Colour Shampoo, Senea Conditioning Cream and Senea Post Colour Balm, to look after your new hair.

It sounds like a brilliant idea, and surprisingly overdue. If you have given up the idea of colouring your hair due to the discomfort, this is the ideal solution. Check out your local Schwarzkopf hairdresser and watch the short video clip which explains all.

(*Don't forget my last post about the John Carne free blowdry if you are in London!)

Special offer - Blowdry at John Carne Hairdresser!

2011-05-24T15:40:00.000-07:00

A very kind special offer for my readers who are in or can get to the Knightsbridge area: get a free blow-dry when you come in for any cut/colour or treatment! They are very expert, and as I mentioned in my review, the hairwash alone will be an experience not to be missed.

Quote ooglemakeup when booking.

[*image from the John Carne website]

Brighton up your day

2011-05-24T14:55:00.000-07:00

Over the weekend I went to Brighton and visited their Museum and Art Gallery. I wanted to draw attention to this little museum as it is offers a palpable sense of modern architecture, art and fashion - it even has a display of Biba makeup! If you are in the area, don't overlook this place - I had only gone in there for the Café, but soon realised what a fun place it was. I must have been before, but it has had a £10m overhaul since then. Good tea and scones too!

Pictured above, the famous Dali "Mae West lips" sofa - the only one in a public collection.

(*Free entrance, like many museums in UK.)

New Hair : My experience at John Carne (Knightsbridge)

2011-05-16T08:31:00.000-07:00

Last week I was getting my hair done at the elegant John Carne salon in Knightsbridge. Just a few paces from Harrods, it is very easy to find - and despite being in a bustling part of town it feels remarkably tranquil. The gleaming floors and mirrored walls, with FashionTV on in the background, instantly imparts a very modern and professional atmosphere. I was lucky to have my hair coloured by Ellie and my hair cut and styled by Sean. Both were so friendly, and I was thrilled with the result.

I came in with a rather drab and grown out bob. The highlights had faded so much that my hair was almost blonde, so I asked Ellie to give me an overall more brown base. I asked for a cool toned shade but Ellie gently advised that a more warm undertone would blend in nicely with my natural hair and make root growth far less high maintenance. Ellie was beyond patient as I laboriously considered all the brunette options! Having a Masters from Schwarzkopf evidently helps - Ellie appreciates every angle. The decision was made: an all-over brown with just a few scattered highlights for a very natural feel.

I then spoke to Sean, a charming Australian who carefully looked at the photo I had brought in. It was a very advanced cut, longer in the front and with a complex undercut at the back. He clearly enjoyed the challenge though, and gave me a very sleek and feminine little bob.

Special mention must be made of the room downstairs...

Although I have been to salons with a massage chair, this massage chair has a personal control so you can decide how (and if) you'd like it, and relaxing music plays as you settle in. Nothing can compare to the delicate light display that unfolds above and around you. I felt like I was in a James Bond film, there was something so very decadent and sci-fi about having my hair washed and massaged while the colourful lights and plush chair eased me in and seemed to detach all stress away. The hair products used were from the Seah range by Schwarzkopf, and after using the Cherry Blossom conditioner I have literally abandoned all my old ones. I thought Bed Head Moisture Maniac was good - but this is just brilliant, and it smells so wonderful too!

Not only was I very pleased with the final effect, I was also reminded of how it felt to be pampered. I have been going to Rush for a while and although I love my hairdresser, it must be said that the utilitarian atmosphere is nothing short of unpleasant. John Carne so far has just 3 salons, the others are in Wimbledon and Guilford. It certainly is a far more personal and boutique style option, and yet the prices are very much in line with (admittedly painful) London salon prices. A ladies haircut and blowdry starts from £55 and half head highlights start at £95.

The combination of a smooth inverted bob and natural hair colour looked very sophisticated. The best thing is, Sean has cut my hair so precisely that even a novice like me can blowdry it and it simply falls into place effortlessly! The true test of a good haircut is what happens once you wash it at home. I did notice that the salon offers a "Style School" hour-long lesson for £55 which sounds like a great idea. The salon also hosts a range of manicure and pedicure treatments. My visit was an absolute treat and it really is a perfect place to go and indulge.

John Carne Knightsbridge
3 Montpelier Street
0207 225 2242
www.johncarne.co.uk

- Check out my little video to see the before and after...

.

Make Up Designory MUD "Beauty Makeup": Book Review

2011-05-15T19:47:00.000-07:00

Another Beauty book, but this one is strictly a practical guide to applying makeup. Although, the introduction does give a succinct rundown of beauty through the ages. This is a vital book for anyone who wants to perfect their makeup skills.

I heartily recommend this book - so many makeup guides fail to adequately explain the essential rules. This is elegantly presented, and academically set out. Hand-drawn illustrations accompany the text and every chapter fully examines the process. Chapters focus on every aspect: foundation application, eyeshadow, eyebrows, contouring, lips, and more. This is a deceptively simple book, which will teach even the most ardent makeup enthusiast a thing or two. I have learnt an immeasurable amount, and now that I understand countouring I will never miss it out.

Available from MUD website, $39.95

Review and Appreciation: 100,000 Years of Beauty (Gallimard)

2011-05-15T16:29:00.000-07:00

The fact that this review has come so late is a measure of just how much enjoyment it has given me. To pore over it, re-read segments, go to museums to follow up aspects, and now to digest my thoughts. I have mentioned it numerous times in passing; indeed it has inspired several posts. But now I shall review it, and give it the spotlight it deserves.

With 1,500 pages and a wealth of full-colour photographs, this beautifully presented pyramid of a book collection is truly a gift to treasure.

Comissioned by L'Oreal to celebrate their 100th anniversary, the books are organised into 5 volumes - each represents not only a time period but also a theme. The pattern is shaped by, "Prehistory - Origins"; "Antiquity - Civilisations"; "The Classical Age - Confrontations"; "Modernity - Globalisation," and "The Future - Predictions."

Collecting contributions from 300 writers of 35 different nationalities ranging from renowned academics, philosophers and artists, the reading experience is challenging and enlightening. At its heart, "100, 000 Years of Beauty" strives to illuminate just how universal "Beauty" is. Symmetry for instance, a common route to Beauty, acts even in animals to eliminate any suspicion of genetic abnormalities or deficiencies.

Speculating that even our earliest forebears decorated themselves with feathers, natural dyes, and teeth ornaments, Neolithic period paintings actually depict decorated bodies which could either represent makeup or scarification. Stones of manganese dioxide show signs of use on a supple surface and indicate the first instance of cosmetics could well date back at least 45,000 years ago, to the Neanderthals. Hundreds of fragments of red dye pigment was found in archaelogical sites in South Africa, dating back at least 200,000 years to the Middle Stone Age. A skull buried 25,000 years ago is painstakingly adorned with shells and yellow ochre. Decorations in death were for social status, not just beauty.

The word "Cosmetics" is said to be derived from "Cosmos", heavenly stars and planets; and accordingly the earliest forms of makeup and perfumes were equally as appreciated for their supernatural healing powers - acting as antibacterial for eyes, or preventing infection on the skin. In Ancient Egypt, the word for makeup derived from "sesh", to engrave, as the same level of skill was needed - and Kohl was buried with the body for use in the Afterlife. As early as Ancient Greek times, Beauty began to be depicted as dangerous and powerful (Helen of Troy; Nymphs) - and blonde hair became a vital ingredient, e.g Helen, Achilles, Aphrodite and Eros, all described as "xanthos", blonde or tawny. It is odd to see modern images of Beauty unfold so easily.

The careful attention to embellishment was eventually attacked by the Christian church during Roman times: it was seen as an insult to God's handiwork. This is of course why Monks shave their hair and thereby renounce their vanity. Again, this straining between whether makeup enhances or distorts, is an endlessly constant theme.

The different cultures and countries described are truly fascinating. The Ancient Chinese notions of male dominance, characterised by the "Three Follows" - young girl follows her father, young woman her husband, elderly widow her eldest son - possibly explains the distinctively feminine elegance, where even well shaped eyebrows were designed to resemble moths or butterflies. In Japanese Geisha makeup, "a white ethereal face, somewhere between beauty and sorrowfulness, sensuality and expressionless, was the mark of supreme elegance." By contrast, the Ancient African understanding of Beauty embraced many features, even the hunchback - though the head was always decorated and revered the most as it was believed to hold the Spirit.

Famously, it was Simone de Beavoir who finally dispelled the belief that cultivated Beauty and intellect could not be compatible. The woman who does not conform to the social pressure to look her best "devalues herself sexually and hence socially." Suffragettes had been depicted by the media as mannish and wearing glasses, but in truth The Women's Movement as early as 1906 had used Fashion and uniform: silk banners, hats, sashes, but it was not remotely designed to prevent women from looking attractive while demanding their rights. Rosie the Riveter, the poster which defined a generation, presented a new form of Beauty. There was now "nothing passive about beauty." Women's progress, illustrated by their clothes which had formerly been reserved for labourers or soldiers: turtleneck sweater, duffle coat, trenchcoat, beret, and ultimately jeans and T-Shirt - was contrasted by Nazism, which glorified the housewife and encouraged a baby boom. Even Christian Dior's "New Look" collection after the war represented a lapse to the past. Far more enlightened was the iconic Chanel suit.

Meanwhile technology changed the face of the Beauty industry. Perfume, for instance, for so many centuries the preserve of the elite and distilled from natural ingredients, now stands for a huge mass market. Typically, 98% of costs are for publicity, and raw ingredients are limited. Mascara, another iconic Beauty staple, was the brainchild of a certain Maybel's brother, who mixed soot and vaseline and legend has it that consequently Maybel got the man of her dreams. Hence the name "Maybelline" was formed. We have Helena Rubenstein to thank for introducing what we now recognise as a mascara wand.

Ancient forms of beauty, such as an Indian implanted jewel embedded in the forehead, make modern body modification seem nothing too revolutionary after all. And with the advent of Plastic Surgery, Beauty is now not only admired and desired, but actually achievable, for a price. The appetite for makeover shows encourages the depressing result that "transcending social critique is only possible after one has submitted to that critique."

Whether Beauty is timeless and organic, or whether it is a social pressure - is open to debate. 100,000 Years of Beauty has a variety of voices, but the conclusions will be your own.

Kate's makeup: The Verdict

2011-04-29T13:52:00.000-07:00

It has been widely reported that Kate Middleton eschewed the services of a professional makeup artist on her big day.

The world waited with bated breath to see the dress. It did not disappoint. 1950s inspired; surprisingly modest - and her sister Pippa in a wedding gown too! Which one will be copied more for future brides to be?

The makeup was a more garish version of her signature look. I applaud the deeper blusher, it looks much better and helps make her a little more youthful. But.... that heavy liner! I think it would have been nice if she had allowed a makeup artist to gently illustrate that heavy liner is not the only way. And smoky eyes on a wedding day just seems wrong to me. The gown has been accurately compared to Grace Kelly's wedding dress. If only the makeup had echoed that too. I would have loved to see Kate Middleton in soft eyes, blushing cheeks and a rosey red lipstick.

Above: The Kiss - with that hysterical bridesmaid (Grace Van Cutsem.) As Vanity Fair wrote, "Wedding-weary Republicanism could not have hoped for a better public face. "

The bride did look beautiful, and what''s more, she looked very comfortable and confident. By all accounts she kept saying she wanted William to "recognise" her, so hair and makeup was not allowed to deviate from the norm.

Above: Bold brows, and those wonderful earrings

...What did you think about the makeup?

PS. The makeup was reported to be Bobbi Brown.

[Pics: AP, Reuters.]

EDIT///poll added above!

Estee Lauder?!

2011-04-28T15:35:00.003-07:00

As if further evidence were needed that Estee Lauder is not just for your granny...

These are just some of the amazing, vibrant polishes Estee Lauder currently have on counter. I say "currently on counter", but sadly in fact most of these are sold out. And - grit your teeth - Limited Edition.

I had my eye on the disability sign blue and the racing green /"Harrods" green, and of course that delicious blue toned purple, the exact colour of my handbag - but sadly all gone. I did luckily manage to get the very sophisticated "Sizzling Taupe", a shade that reminded me of Illamasqua's "Bacterium". I had been meaning to buy the Illamasqua one for so long but that means a trip to Selfridges, and their Beauty Hall has become a place I dread - a very unpleasant shopping environment these days. So, this is the next best thing.

Estee Lauder polishes are a pleasure to use - instantly glossy, and they last for days on end without chipping. My Eyeko £3.50 "Cosmic" polish is so beautiful - black which glints holographic in the sunlight - but even with trusty Seche Vite as armour, it chips within 3 days. So, somewhat balking at £14 for a small polish (it used to be £12.50, only £1.50 less, but that just sounds so much more digestable than "£14" does!) I now have this - and it is very beautiful:

It reminds me of a minky blonde perfect hair colour. It's a brushed gold taupe. Less iridescent than the Illamasqua one, but still eyecatching in an underhand way.

I am hoping Barry M will quench my need for a true, creamy blue. Sometimes a high end polish can be less high maintenance than a cheapie though.

Illamasqua continue to Establish themselves!

2011-04-26T19:06:00.000-07:00

Illamasqua, the self-proclaimed rebel of the makeup landscape, have announced a rather Establishment "Distinction in Make Up Artistry Awards 2011" opportunity.

And it is fantastic. Reassuringly stringent, the competition sounds like it is destined to be the marker for makeup excellence . It is for those either enrolled in, or graduated from, a recognised makeup course. With the world and their auntie claiming inherent makeup skills and brandishing their Youtube channel as evidence, I think it's great that this is limited to those who clearly intend to direct and devote their working lives to the makeup industry. Illamasqua have already held numerous popular contests for the everyman, this heralds something entirely different.

For the chance to win incredible career opportunites and thousands of pounds in cash and Illamasqua products, check this link for all the details. The judging panel is extensive: a huge chance to shine in front of all the right people - including Katie Shillingford – Dazed & Confused Senior Fashion Editor (yes her of the fabulous and famous two toned hair that looked so brilliant we all wanted it) and of course Alex Box, and many others to inspire you to do your BEST.

You must register as an Illamasqua Professional before 31st May 2011. Entries must be made by Friday 26th August 2011.

...Good Luck!!!!

L'oreal New Makeup Collection

2011-04-26T18:42:00.000-07:00

L'Oreal continue their reign, hiring every hot celebrity and fronting trends. This season: Colour blocking and juicy, tropical vibrant hues on nails and lips; neutral, matte eyeshadows for a soft and unexpected contrast. JLo and Frieda Pinto do the honours here with fantastic visuals:

I have tried the nail polishes "Resist and Shine Tropical collection" in Popping Pomegranate and Wonderful Watermelon, £6.12. They lasted around 4 days with no topcoat, before chipping began. I also tested out the Glam Shine Fresh lipglosses, £7.65, in Aqua Lemon Tonic, Aqua Curacao and Aqua Grapefruit. Grapefruit was a sheer but detectable peach, the others seemed simply a high shine (yes, "mirror shine") but no visible colour on application.

The standout product was the Colour infallible matte eye shadow, £6.99, in Pebble Grey. Housed in a very stylish clear cube, with more than 3g of product, it's an exciting sponge-like, densely pressed, pigmented matte powder. The collection shades are limited to 3 - two neutrals, (the grey and a beige, "Coconut Shake" ) with a pure blue ("Blue Curacao") there for variety. I will definitely be collecting these. I was so impressed with how long this formula lasted - even without an eyeshadow base.

Review here (vid) for swatches.

Estee Lauder Mineral Rich Loose Powder Makeup SPF12 - REVIEW!

2011-04-26T17:10:00.000-07:00

I rely on Estee Lauder's renowned Double Wear foundation, a true hero product for anyone who needs to control shine. But since my Clarisonic seems to have evened out my skintone, and Summer has hinted it may be coming to our shores, I am hesitantly wavering from my touchstone.

I was excited to see a new foundation graced with the "Double Wear" promise. In keeping with this label, Mineral Rich Loose Powder Makeup SPF12 boasts 12 hour staying power. It's oil free, and can be worn either as a full coverage foundation using the enclosed puff, or lightly dusted as a finishing powder.

I have tried this in Intensity 2.0, which is quite neutral and I would suggest is eqivalent to Ecru in standard Double Wear.

I enjoyed the way it is so quick - easily buildable, and can reach medium coverage without losing its absolutely natural finish. I would warn that it certainly does not have the same ability as Double Wear to control oil, but for those who find Double Wear too drying, or "paint" like, this will be a welcome change.

The packaging is elegant as ever, and although mineral makeup is always messy, the sifter and secure screw-top makes things easier. I have found mixing this with a primer or Bare Minerals Mineral Veil, means it does last well - around 7 or 8 hours on a hot day.

Priced at £25.50 for 10g jar. Available here or at any Estee Lauder counter.

Fit for Royalty

2011-04-26T16:15:00.000-07:00

...Although what does that mean in this day and age? hmm. Well jaded as some may be, we can all agree that one of the high points has to be MORE MAKEUP! And as I have already declared my allegiance to Bare Minerals High Shine Eyecolour, I am thrilled to see a new shade launched in celebration of the impending Royal Wedding.

I have already analysed Kate Middleton's favoured neutral look, and I must admit this new addition, Rose Gold, is a colour she herself would be delighted with. High Shine Eyecolours are in general very vibrant, but Rose Gold is softer and can even be worn sheer if desired. When I first saw it in the tube, I worried it would be too warm for me, like MAC Melon et al - but in fact this applies as a very pretty peached gold, as if infused with glinting sunlight. As per the previous releases, this works even without a base, resisting creasing with panache. Combined with an eyeshadow base these would last through even the most enthusiastic Royalist street parade. Unfortunately this perfect Royal Wedding colour is only available from June.

Despite its subtlety, this makes eyes look captivating. I will definitely be relying on this for my classic bronzed beachy face. Rose Gold is very aptly named. And, it achieves a luxurious gold which is not trashy. Excellent!

Available from June at Bare Escentuals Boutiques, select Department stores, spa and salons and online. Priced at £15

Stockist info: call 0800 028 7187

InStyle magazine: Murad freebie!

2011-04-23T11:34:00.000-07:00

I grabbed this at my local newsagent and wanted to let you know... InStyle magazine, which is actually one of my faves anyway, is giving away a travel sized 60ml Murad Essential C-Cleanser (worth £10) and I've just tried it with my Clarisonic and it's fantastic! I am already a big fan of Murad skincare and this cleanser had been on my wishlist. I was just about to buy a full size when I realised it made better financial sense to buy another magazine (May edition, £3.70, Julianne Moore on the cover. Valid until 4th May 2011.)

Let's hope you don't live in my area, because you know what that means...

Origins Freebie Alert! YAY!

2011-04-20T11:18:00.000-07:00

...And the best thing is, it's helping the planet!

As part of Earth Month, Origins has established a partnership with Global ReLeaf to plant trees to help restore areas damaged by wildfire and help clean our air and water. For every Plantscription sold during 17th-30th April 2011, Origins will plant a tree on the customer's behalf.

And for one day only, on the 22nd April (this Friday!) customers can bring in any skincare product (of any range, full or empty) and trade it in ABSOLUTELY FREE for a FULL SIZE of either Checks and Balances frothy wash (a personal fave of mine) or A Perfect World Antioxidant cleanser with White Tea. 150ml size. Worth £16. They come in these special edition packaging:

Dangerously Attractive?

2011-04-05T20:03:00.000-07:00

Beauty can often be reductive, especially if you ask men - who seem incapable of accepting that maybe women wear makeup and pretty clothes for their own satisfaction. Indeed such justifications are invariably met with indignation and scorn.

I have spoken before about a post feminist stance many female celebrities have taken, presenting themselves as deliberately and almost comically seductive. This has always been most evident within the rap/RnB context, and the recent furore caused by UK grime artist Skepta, whose music video tips the buttock wobbling and gesticulations into a full on literal porn show, throws off the last scraps of pretence. Reaction to overstepping a subtle but crucial line has been usually one of outrage. (typical reaction video.)

To me, it seems inevitable that boundaries were bound to be pushed - but apparently the status quo, at the very periphery of voyeurism, was deemed finite. Rappers may have a sideline in the Porn industry (perhaps mostly inspired by Snoop Dogg's success) but this is always regarded as separate. Ironically - as a skit in Family Guy made me realise - although prostitution is illegal, throw a video camera into the mix and it is actors and simply part of the adult film industry. The incredibly arbitrary definitions imply that a deliberately attractive woman is "an invitation to treat" - if not an offer! Is looking attractive a challenge for ownership?

Lyrics grouping cars, money and women, explicitly accounts for them as objects to be bought or at least earned as rewards. Adverts have consistently used attractive women to entice a sale. Famously, Ted Bundy's frenzied sexually motivated slaughter of attractive young women was explained as a route to "possesing" them, just as one would possess a pretty ornament. "La petite mort" afterall borrows death as a term for victory and loss of control... Only in death can the "invitation" be revoked.

Humiliation is akin to la petite mort in its more literal sense, and men shouting abuse - which masquerades as harmless banter or even compliments - have become an unpleasant side effect to feeling attractive. According to "Hollaback!", a new website advising women to cast aside the tried and tested "head down, ignore" attitude and adopt a more aggressive response instead, over 80% of women experience catcalling of some kind. A recent article in Grazia magazine on the initiative sheepishly admitted that the origin of these catcalls was paramount: a rich and attractive city banker is allowed and appreciated; a white van man, not so much. "Hollaback!" also has the inadvertent effect of at times being rather amusing. However, it is a serious issue, men potentially can get extremely frustrated by what they deem as provocation or being ignored; making women feel like objects for derision could be a precursor to more serious assaults.

Conversely, the other objectification of women (perhaps as old as time but never more protected and financially motivated by Law and the Press) is the trend for young "aspiring" models/actresses/singers/delete as appropriate/ to ensnare rich vacuous footballers/playboys/delete as apropriate/ and even to become pregnant as a contingency plan.

Is the quest for beauty always bound up with sexual attraction, just as a beautiful rose attracts a bee, and a peacock struts and shakes its feathers to attract the female? (In nature, often the pressure is on the male to look attractive and fight for a dull coloured female. Perhaps with the boom in male grooming, this will become the standard.) I had always assumed that preening ourselves distances us from Nature... But if looking attractive means inviting leering and worse, is the only solution to get thee to a nunnery?

Can beauty be an end in and of itself, or does it neccessarily involve the appreciation of "the Other" to be true?

The BEST volumising mascara!

2011-04-02T07:22:00.000-07:00

Quick post - this mascara is my new found fave for creating the best volume ever. The incredible thing is that it never clumps, and you can build it up endlessly without fear of spider lashes or any messy flaking.

I have been very devoted to Lancome's Hypnose mascara, which is still wonderful and has a brilliantly shaped small curved brush. This mascara instead has a far larger and cone shaped brush (yet still, not too big to be unwieldy) and took a little pratice. But once mastered, this mascara is truly dramatic and lavishes lashes with immense volume. I first reviewed these here, and adored the navy version. Next on my hitlist is the purple (if any counter actually has it! The fun coloured versions are limited editions.)

The mascara is of course Estee Lauder Sumptuous Extreme in Extreme Black. It also comes in brown. The black is dark and works exactly as promised: "Acts like lash extensions multiplying and growing the look of lashes. Fortified with conditioning Lash-Advancing Vitamin Complex."

This mascara makes any makeup look dramatic, and most importantly it also feels conditioning and comfortable. I find many volumising mascaras make my lashes feel stiff and dry. This mascara gives fluttery lashes or huge fake looking lashes depending how enthusiastically it is applied. Check it out! Bonus points for the elegant gold design. Hugely recommended.

£22 from all Estee Lauder counters and online.

It's National NO MAKEUP Day!!!

2011-03-24T13:28:00.000-07:00

Did you honour this year's National No Makeup Day? Luckily for me and all those who would have passed me, I woke up oblivious to this momentous occasion. obstacle.

I learnt of it through Bare Minerals, who are vigorously supporting it on the basis that as pure, mineral makeup - "so pure you can sleep in it", they offer the perfect middle ground. I would agree: mineral makeup, and especially a little powder and the famous "Warmth" bronzer, goes a long way to faking the no-makeup look with true persuasiveness.

(my shade, "Fairly Light")

If forced to partake in a no-makeup day, I would certainly smuggle in my favourite blusher ever, which is Bare Minerals "Flowers", very sadly discontinued I hear. "Fruit Cocktail" looks amazing, and is next on my list when my blusher finally runs out (they last for ever!) I highly recommend looking into the blusher range in particular, if you are inspired to adopt a more minimal makeup look in celebration of this year's No Makeup Day but you want to resist the dreaded washed out look.

...Did you keep National No Makeup Day?

A strange and unique beauty (that we've all seen before)

2011-03-19T16:50:00.000-07:00

Some aspects of beauty have been around since time immemorial and transcend all cultural divides: symmetry, long limbs, straight back. But there is no denying that now, as cultures and races intermix and stereotypes and assumptions progressively get waylaid by History's alleyways, definitions of beauty have been widened - but still - remain strictured.

And although it has always been the preserve of Fashion to shock and set flash trends, the inclusion of a new muse at Thierry Mugler is arresting and oddly beautiful. Tattoos have long been completely absorbed into the mainstream, but not like this...

Perhaps because the tattoo has a coherence of harmony and logic, and is almost poetic in its state of paradox: the inside, outside; the death vision on the life vision; the freshness of youth offset by a caricature of wormy decaying death... Somehow, it can be categorized as Beauty. Obviously not when he is pushing 40 and beyond (yawn yes yes we all know that) but for now, it is clear that "Zombie Boy" as he likes to be known, is getting mileage out of his creation. As WWD quips,

"Tattooing yourself to resemble a rotting corpse — complete with blackened eye sockets and insects crawling over your exposed brain — probably ranks low on the list of things a young man can do to attract attention from girls. Yet it seems to be working wonders."

It is impossible to mention him without citing his sponsor Lady Gaga. Lady Gaga, Katy Perry, Nicki Minaj - all portray a strangely post feminist version of Beauty. Fronting cosmetic campaigns [MAC/ OPI], they exude an equal parts mocking and desperate attitude towards Beauty. It might have started off as fun, now invariably appears horribly laboured.

Hip Hop and other music videos relish the exaggerated versions of money and ahem, 'hoes' - and the female pop stars play along, perhaps as a route to being empowered by what is essentially misogyny (much like the 'N word' has been adopted and turned into a term of endearment.) Lyrics that are saturated with far from witty double entendres pepper their pop songs, and they deliberately choose skimpy clothes and scandalous poses. All very tedious and staged.

It is always a struggle to create a modern, beautiful and arresting campaign - and although androgyny is old hat, the formula has been pushed to now include men playing the role of women: Lea T, a transexual model, and Andrej Pejic, a very feminised male model, both setting a new trend (pictured respectively below.) This article disregards these innovations,

"Of course, in fashion, things can always get stranger, but they rarely do anymore. Nudity, androgyny, sado-masochistic fantasies, an overtly gay sensibility — all these ideas have been expressed for years."

Individuality is prized to the point where it is ironically used to set off a cult (I believe Gaga calls her followers monsters?) and polished self-images mean tabloids thrive most when a celebrity can have a red circle or arrow drawn to alert the reader to their every flaw.

Is it a sign of freedom and advancement that there are these constant attempts to redefine beauty, even if it driven by a publicity campaign...? Or is it merely Plus ça change...

Can't touch this?

2011-03-16T16:06:00.000-07:00

Make Up For Ever, fresh from their cameo in Britney Spears' latest music video, now have another publicity brainwave. And it is ingenious - what better way to prove HD really is different, than by a straight up photo?

At first when I read about this, I scoffed. Yes, a young and pretty model looks good in your makeup - Bravo. Show me a 40 year old and you might hold my attention. But, I must admit, visiting the website I really do admire what they have done. For the first time, I feel I can trust the lip and cheek colours - and seeing the instructions of every photo, it actually reads as true fact.

Is this a new trend? I must admit I like the vapid photoshopped alternate universe where arm wobble and stray hairs make no appearance. [I rely on blogs to give me the unglorified version!]

But perhaps the advertisers realise that in an age of manic papparazzi and bald twitter, there is hardly a point feeding us farcical visions of digitally manipulated beauty. I'll be most intrigued to see whether this becomes the "new thing." Many magazines have pushed this issue in celebrity features, so in hindsight it was only a matter of time - yet still, unexpected.

Thoughts? (+new poll above)

What do you think of the Make Up For Ever unretouched ads?

Interview with: Louise Young

2011-03-07T13:58:00.000-08:00

Louise Young is fairly new as a makeup brand, but as a makeup expert she has long proven herself and has years of not only practical artistry, but also the teaching, to enrich her résumé. I have to admit that her session was the highlight of my IMATS day, as it is quite rare to find a makeup artist so knowledgeable about the historical side of makeup, not only the trends but even the packaging and the photographers of the day were discussed as she confidently but casually created a perfect 1940s face. I am very intrigued by the history and evolution of makeup fashions and techniques, so talking to Louise Young is always a great privilege.

Louise Young brushes and the eyeshadow palette stand as testament to her astute perfectionism; every angle is positioned just right, clearly in response to real makeup dilemmas. The now famous LY38 and especially the new version, LY38B, was created when she made up a lady with a very thin eye crease and realised there was no perfect brush, yet. Similarly, Louise Young tested the eyeshadow palette at every turn of its manufacture, until she eventually deemed the colours and packaging were exact. It is clear that the brand is destined to become a byword for high quality, essential products.

***

Interview with Louise Young

Watching your demonstration class at IMATS, “Retro Inﬂuences on Current Fashion” was fascinating, not least because as you worked you imparted so many useful tips and techniques! You are very involved with the academic side of makeup education, but do you plan one day to release a makeup book for the masses?

I am currently writing contributions to 2 educational books - one where I have carried out the make-up and the 2nd I am a contributor amongst other make-up artists giving a proﬁle of my work. I am currently working on a complete book as well.

At IMATS, you mentioned that you admire and collect antique packaging and old magazines; do you think the level of 1940s glamour has ever been matched since? Have there been any modern makeup trends which impressed you?

I love the golden era of Hollywood and I think part of the glamour of that period is that the stars retained an air of mystery about them. With current celebrities being so much more accessible to the media via magazines, twitter and the internet I do feel some of this glamorous image has been lost. The old studio system - whilst ﬂawed in some ways - did help stars to retain their untouchable image and would never have allowed pictures of their stars to appear in any less than a favourable light.

Regarding modern make-up trends I really love some of Pat McGrath”s work for Dior and also Val Garland always produces interesting creations.

You have a very broad base of makeup knowledge - as well as extensive lecturing you have built up years of experience working in a variety of mediums: Film, TV, Fashion and adverts! How do you ﬁnd your makeup techniques change to suit these situations?

I make a conscious effort not to be typecast or pigeon holed in one area and to do this I make sure I can adapt to any situation. I listen carefully to the brief on a job and also make sure I understand exactly what the client is trying to achieve. Having a very wide knowledge of different styles helps and I keep up to date with new products, trends and also get inspiration from nature and the world around me.

Do you have any makeup “rules” or fail-safe tips for women to help them avoid any makeup disasters?

Well, number one would be to do your make-up in a good light - many women still try and achieve a good effect in bad lighting conditions.

I think as well it is very important to know your own face and understand light and shade on the face as it is easy to make yourself look worse, not better.

Do you think men will start wearing makeup any time soon? Various ranges have tried to induce them...

I am not sure about this one - I think it is a fast growing market when presented as “male grooming” which is deﬁnitely an increasing trend. However I think we have a long way to go before we see the majority of men wearing make-up - though looking back at history it is deﬁnitely a possibility.

Do you have a favourite makeup period or an ultimate makeup icon?

My favourite make-up period would be late 30s into the 1940s. I think it is partly due to the way that the celebrity photographers of the time such as George Hurrell presented the stars - making them look like gods and goddesses. I love the clothes and styling of the 1930s as well so I think I am drawn to the the whole effect.

Your brushes have been praised by all and the ﬁrst palette you brought out was equally fantastic. Will the Louise Young brand eventually include a full collection of makeup and tools? - Please could you divulge any future plans for the range...?

Yes, I have designed the whole range which we are hoping will be available by mid 2012. I take so much time to make sure each product is exactly right and choosing the right packaging takes me a long time. I am planning the book to coincide with the launch of the rest of the range.

Illamasqua Toxic Nature Collection: Review!

2011-03-05T19:35:00.001-08:00

Illamasqua recently unveiled their Spring/Summer 2011 Collection, "Toxic Nature." Inspired by the ash cloud that wrecked havoc last year, and the general theme of nature being corrupted by pollution and natural disaster, the colours include a neon green inspired by the colour of toxic gas. But the general feel of this collection, masterminded by the charming David Horne, is of a natural, grungy palette. I loved the colour scheme and I think people who have previously written off Illamasqua as too avant-garde, will find a lot to appreciate here.

The 6 new Cream pigments (£17) are rather like MAC paint pots, but less dry and more adaptable to use on the hair (yes, really!), cheeks, lips, as well as eyes. The colour Delirium in particular, reminded me of my favourite MAC paint pot, Girl Friendly. The other shade I have is a very pretty, girly, soft pastel lilac - nothing remotely gothic about this delicate shade!

Described as:

A new matt formula that can either neutralise or dominate. Create the ultimate in textures whether it’s on your face, eyes, or body, bringing a flash of colour to a subtle contour. “The power of the products in this collection is evident in the intensity of the Cream Pigments they are intense, raw colour but blend down easily exactly like an artists paint palette.” Alex Box.

Emerge Peach (EU Exclusive)
Bedaub Mint
Dab Lilac
Hollow Toffee
Delirium Rose Taupe (EU Exclusive)
Mould Grape

The star item had to be the delicate nude sparkle Precision ink liner (£17), Glister, a liquid liner that can be used as an eyeliner or a highting pen. Alex Box's images had a cupid's bow outlined with this.

There are also two new lipsticks, a bright flattering and dare I say classic hot pink, (Atomic) and a modern but still very wearable orange coral. (Flare) (both £15.50) These are complimented by a soft sheer lipgloss each, Torture, a coral, and Divine, a hot pink tint. (£13)

For many, the most exciting will be the 5 new nail polish shades. Illamasqua has become known for its high quality formulas. Stagnate, the colour I was given, is yet another Chanel Particuliere, but, like skinny jeans, this is a trend that has become a classic. It has a high shine and wears very well. The other shades are:

Purity Peach
Bacterium Pearlescent Ash Ochre
Radium Acidic Lime Shimmer
Stagnate Grey Mauve
Gamma Neon orange

(£13.50)My favourite has to be either the shimmery yellow tinged lime of Radium, or the irresistable complexity of the almost silver duochrome Bacterium.

And finally, Illamasqua once again joins forces with nail impressario Mike Peacock to introduce the Toxic Claw (£35.) I am told that this nail set will not be a constant - next collection will be lashes! And apparently upcoming collections are set to shock us once again...

For now, enjoy the tame face of Illamasqua. Available online from March 10th, and March 17th at UK Counters. April 2011 at Sephora. My favourite thing about Illamasqua is that they are one of the only makeup ranges that eschew Limited Editions. All items will thankfully be available without the imminent threat of extinction.

P.S. Be sure to visit the Illamasqua website for the chance to win your favourites from the range - register and join the waiting list for your desired Toxic Nature shades. 3 winners will be sent all of the items from this wishlist.

Beauty from an ugly source?

2011-03-05T17:59:00.000-08:00

As the fashion world reels from Galliano's fall from grace (Womens Wear Daily editor likened it to the shock of McQueen's suicide) and the top job is suddenly up for grabs, another question emerges - can beauty be gleaned from an ugly source?

Despite stylist Patricia Field's enterprising defence - that Galliano was simply exhibiting his trademark showmanship and was taken too literally, the video leaked by The Sun exposes a wine-swilling Galliano slurring, "I love Hitler ... People like you would be dead. Your mothers, your forefathers, would all be fucking gassed." When the woman recording him asks if he has a problem, he responds, "With you. You're ugly." She then asks where he's from, and he says, "Your asshole."

Natalie Portman, face of Dior Cherie perfume, her profile bigger than ever after her recent Oscar win, gave Dior an ultimatum. Dior dutifully sacked their golden goose. There is no doubt that Galliano refreshed the label and showed dazzling flair during his 15 year stint. Clearly the fashion world were keen to believe the allegations were defamatory, not least because Dior chief executive Sidney Toledano is himself jewish. But after the video footage, any hope was lost. Karl Lagerfield also made his disdain clear: ‘The image is around the world. It is a horrible image of fashion because they think every designer and everything in fashion is like this.’ And although the cynical may view Lagerfeld's attack as an opportunity to square up to his biggest rival Dior, the facts do remain. As he explained, in an internet age, bad publicity goes viral and is not easily forgotten.

The recent bloggers' campaign against MAC and Rodarte's apparent capitalisation of a raw theme seemed to imply beauty could not be invited on just any terms. In her statement, Natalie Portman made the rather pious observation, "I hope these terrible comments remind us to reflect and act upon combating these still-existing prejudices that are the opposite of all that is beautiful." But, much like good music by hedonists, racists or worse; or good art by drunks, wife-beaters or worse, can we accept Galliano's stunning designs and ignore the designer?

At the Oscars, Dior had a very low profile - notably worn only by Nicole Kidman and Sharon Stone.

Open racism is not acceptable, therefore those in the public eye are quick to sever it like gangrene. And if beauty must be a victim, so be it. It will take years for this to tarnish and the beauty of Dior's recent collections to be seen once again through the dirt. Perhaps if rumours are true, Galliano will design Kate Moss' wedding dress and all will be forgiven. But Moss, who surely should be one to empathise with embarrassing videos and sackings, will probably not want this role. Fashion is fickle, beauty is transient, but moral outrage is tenacious.

What are your thoughts - is beauty an independent quality, or is it inextricably connected to its creator?

PS. Interestingly, one of the most immediate ways for the final Galliano Dior collection to be distanced from its designer was the absence of the flamboyant makeup we have come to expect from his shows.

*Poll added up there!

Oscars makeup 2011

2011-03-03T18:12:00.001-08:00

Oscars makeup is always the most exciting - High fashion gowns that on the catwalk were invariably twinned with extravagant stylised makeup, now seen in a glamorous but real context. This year's makeup choices were as usual mostly within the confines of classic and natural, but thankfully the trend for true nude makeup was replaced by an abundance of smokey eyes in various shades. The absolute winner was Scarlette Johansson (in Dolce & Gabanna): the clashing orange eyes, dishevelled hair and burgundy purple dress worked in perfect (dis)harmony. The dress itself toyed between matronly doily lace and seductive cut-outs. The effect combined created a refreshing, modern twist on a classic. The eyes and hair made certain that she looked young and confident - the attributes most lusted after at these huge events.

There were a few other purple gowns in sight, and Natalie Portman came a very close second in her deep purple Rodarte gown and matching shoes, matching earrings and matching little bag (she does loves to match!) The rich shade really suited her olive complexion, and teamed with an aubergine smokey eye and purple toned blusher, her petite features were enhanced to their utmost.

Hilary Swank, who got it so wrong last year, chose a more resplendent gown, but the lack of jewellery and makeup really undermined her choice. With long earrings and a red lip or dark smoky eyes, this would have been exquisite.

Sandra Bullock, the woman of the hour last year, and notorious victim of the "Oscar curse" wore a defiant column of red, with a bright red matching lip and bag. Kudos to her for attending in a bold and lively outfit, rather than a mournful black remembrance dress.

Gwyneth Paltrow stuck to her reliable gold slinky numbers, and middle parted straight hair. Something about her face has changed recently but I am not sure what... However she looked reliably sleek and her Oscars Calvin Klein dress highlighted her enviable physique. The cool toned gold sheen was offset by the effortless hair and makeup. Heavy makeup and gold dress would inevitably become old fashioned, so it was perfectly pitched. Gwyneth rarely gets it wrong.

There were, of course, those who chose to look as natural and unpolished as possible. Halle Berry has been universally upheld as one of the best dressed. I thought, like Demi Moore last year, that the nude fairy wisp gowns should be left to those under 35. I know this is harsh, especially in a celebrity landscape which for the first time, is riddled with over 40+ screen sirens on every magazine cover [a good thing of course, especially as people's life expectancy gets longer, and women have no desire to give up their rights to attractiveness at nature's appointed moments.] And yet, I do think a sense of austerity should be consulted once one is no longer a young starlet. Either in the form of a nod to bold makeup, or a deeper coloured gown, or even a big necklace. I think the pixie cut is wonderful on her though!

Helen Mirren once again chose a brilliant dress. Her pixie haircut is an inspired move, and coupled with the dashing Vivien Westwood gown and the natural makeup and diamonds, looked superb.

Cate Blanchett and Michelle Williams also went for very angelic natural makeup. I think Cate has indeed made that her trademark - and with her unusual features, it works well. She doesn't need to rely on interesting makeup to look stylish. I am trying very hard to like her dress, as she wears it with such panache, but somehow that 'bib' just prevents me from praise. Michelle William's Chanel gown on the other hand, is easily my favourite of the night. It is equal parts elegant, uncomplicated and graceful. Her pixie haircut is yet another example of how flattering this style can be.

Making that Dior backwards tuxedo a distant memory, Celine Dion looked fabulous. Warm toned smoky eye makeup and nude lips meant the simple dress and her trim figure were the centre of attention.

Sharon Stone looked rather too sombre in draped black gown with 80s style bouffant and red lip, but there's no denying that she always looks her best.

Reese Witherspoon channeled the same style hair but her 60s dark eyes and nude lip, as well as the simplicity of the gown, kept it crisp.

Joan Collins apparently ended up in hosital due to the tightness of this dress. It is not hard to imagine, fitting into that is quite a feat! However I applaud this resilience. Admitting defeat and plumping for a demure gown and nude makeup is not as impressive as looking to Dynasty for your inspiration. Joan is dressing her age, but in a traditional way - indulgently embracing sumptuous overbearing glamour.

Madonna, on the other hand, is quite a confusing prospect. This is hampered further by her daughter - who looks inevitably sheepish next to her exhibitionist companion. Madonna's makeup is perfect - it always is (even if her face has been twisted and pinched) but the lace leotard was a gamble too far.

Tori Spelling probably had a bit too much makeup on, but I loved the combination of unapologetic makeup and glitzy dress. And thanks to the conservative cut, it didn't look overdone.

Hayden Panettiere revealed that she definitely suits a dark vampy lip. The dress was edgy yet still unmistakably grecian inspired.

Kim Kardashian did what she does best (no, not that!) and squeezed herself into a curvy dress. Her makeup suits her, it is heavy but it is always flawless. Her nose seems smaller than ever, but I am sure that is ahem, just makeup.

Kelly Osbourne has lost so much weight, and although she will never be winning any beauty contests, she looked the best ever. The light hair and pink lip ought to be her signature. She plays around with her image so much that it would be good to see her ease into a semblance of a signature look. This is such a pretty look:

Jennifer Hudson has also lost so much weight and looks amazing. The vibrancy of the dress and the glossy lips make her look so glowing. And even if she falls into the trap that so many women who lose weight do (ill fitting clothes that are just fractionally optimistically small) it still was one of the best looks of the night.

And the surprise of the night has to reluctantly be awarded to Jordan / Katie Price. Her hair suits her better blonde, and her makeup was beautiful. The dress was not quite within the realms of vulgar, either. Top marks!

PS. I didn't feature Anne Hathaway's makeup as it was too straightforward. I liked it though. You can read all about it here.

What did You think of this year's Oscars makeup?

*images via Google

New Louise Young brushes!

2011-02-15T16:56:00.000-08:00

Louise Young has been steadily cornering her market, and has blending brushes for even the most pernickety of makeup fans. The new brushes, which have now gone live on the website, include the introduction of shorter handled brush versions of the popular LY38 and LY39, as well as a new LY38 A and LY38 B. The LY38 A is just marginally slimmer than the original (might make all the differnce to some), but the LY38 B is nothing short of a revelation for asian or other smaller lids. It is the slimmest blending brush I have ever seen, yet still has soft bristles and a delicate feel. Usually smaller lids have to resort to using smaller and inevitably denser pencil brushes to reach into their eye crease. The LY38 B is surely destined to be a must-have for many.

Here are some photos, and please check my video review here for details on all the brushes.

From top: LY04, LY03, LY39 short handle, (All £17) LY38 B (£15), LY38 short handle (£17) and LY38 A (£16)

Review: Estée Lauder Wild Violet Collection - and upcoming products!

2011-02-15T14:46:00.000-08:00

I am so ecstatic with my new Estée Lauder "Pure Colour Long Lasting Lipsticks" (£17.50) - every shade in the Wild Violet collection is a timeless must-have. The formulas are reliably smooth and never drying, the staying power is impeccable, and most of all, the colours are all so flattering! It takes Wild Violet, the eponymous lipstick, to remind me how pretty berry lips are. It has just the right amount of pink to look girly, and just enough purple to stop it looking twee. And Wild Fire has the same balanced perfection - just enough red to be a red, just enough orange to stop it being too classic! A truly modern red. Wild Coral is a beautiful soft wearable satin tangerine shade that recalls the impossible to buy Limited Edition Lancome Chris n' Tell lipstick. Finally the dusky pink Wild Blossom, a wearable everyday antique rose colour, ideal for pale complexions in particular. Each lipstick takes only one swipe for true colour. Wild Blossom took 2 on my pigmented lips but would be opaque on most lips even with one. They contain vitamins C and E and have a light fig scent, and wear for at least 5 hours on me.

Each lipstick is accompanied with its own Pure Colour Gelée (£16), and although I would say you probably in this instance can simply choose one, I must admit that these are another winner for me: they make lips look a LOT plumper. As Estée Lauder promises, " A luminous finish that does not disappoint." They are rather sheer on bare lips, but over the lipsticks they work wonders. The colours are: Electric Cherry, Electric Violet, Electric Pink and Electric Coral. Cherry is a reddened coral, Violet is a magenta, Pink is a fuschia and Coral is a true tangerine coral. These look like water and feel like it too: moisturising and comfortable, and never sticky. Wear time on these is probably only up to 2 hours or so before reapplication is needed to get back to that fantastic shine.

There is also the Wild Violet eyeshadow palette (£34) which looks fairly similar to the Christmas one but with more shimmer and perhaps less warm, with the jewel in the crown being the stunning deep purple at the centre. The pencil, Untamed Violet (£15.50) is a very blue purple, rather a cornflower blue on me.

In addition, Estée Lauder have brought out their hotly anticipated return to coloured mascaras. These always sell out in record time, and now having tried Extreme Indigo, I can see why. Unlike most coloured mascaras, this one actually did look blue on my lashes - and not just when I stood in direct sunlight. With its claims of "Solid Rod Fibre", "Hollow Tube Fibre" and "Micro-Locking Fibre" I was somewhat skeptical. Yet the hollow fibre and flexible fibre and "Y" shaped fibres apparently do work: this mascara is easily built up to create volumised and lengthened blue eyelashes. I am very impressed with this and appreciate the narrow wand.

"Sumptuous Extreme Lash Multiying mascara" (£22.)

I will be testing out the (thankfully permanent) Extreme Black shade next! This also comes in Extreme Brown (permanent) and another limited edition shade, Extreme Violet.

The collection is completed with a new Limited Edition Nail polish in Wild Storm (£12.50), a somewhat generic steel grey, and a Limited Edition perfume called Wild Elixir (£32), which I briefly tested in store and found fairly familiar too. It smells like something that will be very popular: a flowery yet faintly woody amber scent.

All in all I would highly suggest you check the lipsticks out - very high quality and flattering everyday colours, and then check the glosses and mascara. And whilst you are at the counter, you must get a Double Wear Shadowcreme, I recently picked up "Pink Blush" and it's yet another ideal base. I hope they bring out more colours soon.

The Derek Lam fashion show at New York Fashion week has given a few clues as to what is next with Tom Pecheux at the helm -

- two new eyeshadows in silver and black, a new matte nude lipstick, and a new very exciting sounding Idealist Even Skin Illuminator, as well as a new Illuminating powder. These wonderful photos show how these simple shades, combined with a dramatic angular eye shape, can suit a variety of skin tones and always look both modern and classic.

Plus, thanks to musings of a muse blog, I am counting the days until Bronze Goddess makes its triumphant return. There will be a new eyeshadow palette and this absolutely perfect "Sea Star Bronzing Blusher." This is why Estée Lauder has been my favourite brand for so long. Fun, yet never ever loses sight of what looks good on the face.

Review: Trish McEvoy Even Skin Beta Hydroxy pads

2011-02-13T11:01:00.000-08:00

For the past few weeks I have been using Trish McEvoy's "Even Skin Beta Hydroxy pads". Unlike most exfoliating pads, these are saturated with moisture and feel very 'wet' - a world away from the drying alcohol feel of most exfoliating pads that leave skin reassuringly red and prickly. Instead, these pads feel very soothing. And yet, I have already noticed a visible brightening effect and my skin has been very clear.

At £45 for 40 pads, these are rather an indulgence. But from reading the positive reviews on makeupalley, some ingenious suggestions include cutting the pads into halves (each pad has plenty of moisture so even a half dose will apply enough for your entire face!) or using the pad as a simaltaneously anti aging face and hand remedy (again, plenty of moisture to ensure both areas are treated.) In the light of these tricks, and bearing in mind that a facial costs upwards of £45, these are a viable option.

My very first encounter with exfoliating pads was, indeed, when I had a facial that consisted of a beautician simply applying a glycolic pad (to the tones of rainforest and whale song mind) and it was definitely about £40 for the privilege. I would recommend these pads in particular to those with sensitive skin or aging skin, as it rewards you with the benefits of exfoliation - without the downtime of red angry skin. I have also made a video review here.

Trish McEvoy range is available at Harvey Nichols and Selfridges.

N.B. Trish McEvoy also offers a skincare set [pictured above] "The Skin Enhancement Collection" for £202.50 for 7 items (including the famous Beauty Booster serum and the Beta Hydroxy pads) in a quilted white bag.

I red your lips...

2011-02-06T07:08:00.000-08:00

...And it seems 61% insist "Yes, sometimes the occasion demands a red lip at least!" and a further 19% go as far as boasting, "Yes, every day! I give Gwen Stefani a run for her money!"

I must admit I expected more people to be in the nude camp (so to speak) but seeing as most people are unwilling to relinquish red lips, it seems we recognise the undeniable force and symbolism of bold lips.

From the regimented power of the red lipped backing dancers in Robert Palmer's music video, to the threatening seduction of Marilyn Monroe - red lipstick has the power to tantalise like no other makeup can. Arguably the most erogenous feature, lips are most dominating when slicked with a bold shade. Simultaneously seductive and domineering, red lips can evoke a forthright business face or all-out glamour.

In business, women recognised that a sharp (inevitably male inspired) suit can be juxtaposed with a red lip to create a delicate balance... Their gender is thus conceded, yet red lips forbid an assertion of weakness. I imagine this is at the heart of why a bold lip will never be old news: a shock of colour will always provoke attention, and marks out the wearer as confident enough to realise its power.

***

Next week's poll: "Do you follow makeup trends?" Options and voting are above now!

Thanks!

IMATS LONDON 2011: Reporting back

2011-01-31T09:34:00.000-08:00

This year's IMATS has steadily improved, and according to seasoned IMATS visitors, that is self-evident. And although IMATS has positively embraced the growing trend for YouTube makeup videos and blogs, at the core of the show lies a serious reverence for makeup as an industry. Anyone with a keen interest in makeup, or anyone prone to pontificating about the exact nuances and undertones of a shade, will revel in the luxury of choosing between a thousand different types of red lipstick.

IMATS offers the opportunity for brands to showcase their collections directly to the experts. There is no hard sell, and the shopping is nothing like an irritating trip to your local mall. The products are expected to perform at professional grade, and the customers are, in the main, makeup artists looking to fill their kit.

INGLOT, Illamasqua, Yaby, OCC, Eve Pearl, NAKED Cosmetics, Kryolan, and many others, were all in attendance. Most had a surprisingly large amount of products on offer, though Illamasqua (perhaps put off by being nearly crushed to death last year!) opted to only bring a small section of their range. I had been looking forward to building up my pigment collection on the cheap, but alas no dice. I also had hoped Kryolan would bring their lipsticks so I could stock up (their lipsticks are brilliant!) but they couldn't bring everything. Looks like I will need to make a shopping trip to town afterall. I bought some INGLOT (not that impressed so far, sorry) Eve Pearl (lovely company, hmm still making my mind up on these but 'ok' for now) and some Yaby concealers (initially very impressed but now not so sure.) I resisted the lure of Hukuhado brushes but they do look excellent, with a real Japanese artisan flair.

lovely Eve Pearl and lovely MsPancake (will find her channel and update!)

The first talk I went to was Lauren Luke (YouTube's Panacea81.)

Lauren's was the first channel I ever subscribed to, and as she explained - back then it was only a handful of professional makeup artists demonstrating their looks on a model. What she did, as a "normal look'n" person, was to demystify complex techniques. Whether you accept her as a 'professional makeup artist' or not, her finished looks are always very polished, yet throughout the tutorials she will be casually chatting or dropping brushes just like us. Lauren admitted that the early videos which were untempered, are now a thing of the past. She no longer makes drawn out tutorials, and is sure to put her pets away so as not to offend listeners. Barry M were her first big break, and she speaks of them warmly, clearly still appreciating how they plucked her from YouTube and introduced her to the business opportunities to be gained. Nowadays she is affiliated with many brands, and of course has her own successful and expanding makeup range, By Lauren Luke (exclusive to Sephora - and, we were told, destined to be online only for UK.) She would be interested in being poached again, but joked that she has so far only had offers for her hair [Lauren has extremely long hair.] The turnout was surprisingly modest, and Lauren was not oblivious to the "snobbery" in the makeup and fashion industry. Ultimately, she has had incredible opportunites which prolific makeup artists could only dream of. Indeed, Lauren said her family only realised how famous and succesful she was when her Nintendo DS game came out. Lauren beams as she speaks of her family's pride in her. What makes Lauren Luke such a phenomenon is her charm; the fact she recognises her strengths and weaknesses and moreover that she realises her fans have sustained her career. Only once does she concede that sometimes the pressure of being recognised means that she pretends she's not "that girl off of YouTube."

Then I went to a NAKED Cosmetics makeover with the wonderful and kind Koren from Enkoremakeup. He created a neon look using purple and green:

The other talk I went to was very different, and was packed with makeup artists. Louise Young hosted a makeover and spoke about "Retro Influences on Current Fashion." Louise Young is a wonderful expert, with decades of experience in both film and fashion to her name. Her aim, to create this classic look:

Whilst creating a timeless makeover, she gave out tips in an easy manner. As she concealed dark circles she warned "just a quarter of an inch out and you can age someone" and added, "sometimes you take off someone's makeup and half your work is done for you, they look so much better." Louise also spoke of her love of antique cosmetics and interest in the manufacture of makeup. She collects old compacts and old magazines and clearly finds the historical side of makeup just as interesting as the practical side. Her first foray into makeup was a serious undertaking, and the marvellous result is testament to her perfectionism. All mattes, Louise explained that matte shadows mean the makeup artist stays in control of their work, rather than be at the mercy of lighting - which can make glitters and frosts react unpredictably. I have already recommended Louise Young's brushes and palette, but meeting her again and learning so much just in a brief hour, makes me even more impressed.

Lastly I squeezed in to see Alex Box performing to a huge turnout. Clearly Alex Box, creative director of Illamasqua, appeals in equal parts to the makeup artists and to the mere makeup fanatics. Her live rendition was a treat to behold - and made it almost heartbreaking to think this will all be washed off (though she insists this is precisely its purpose.) Working to dramatic music, Alex Box, like a painter, added inspired flashes of highlight and shade for a dazzling and theatrical result.

All in all I would highly suggest a trip to IMATS, it was a fantastic day and a definite date for your calendar.

Your beauty data required!

2011-01-23T14:47:00.000-08:00

I have added a fun new feature to my blog, every week I will ask a burning makeup question and look forward to hearing your opinions!

This week's Poll: Do you wear bold lipstick?

Please take a moment to select your answer, I hope to uncover many other fundamental makeup issues and trivia all to be gleaned from these polls, and then collect up my data to inspire future posts...

IT'S ON THE TOP RIGHT - UP THERE

Thanks!!!

Countdown to IMATS begins!!! (1 week to go!)

2011-01-21T17:05:00.000-08:00

That time of year is almost upon us - an invitation to makeup fanatics nationwide to congregate, and indulge in makeup GALORE!

This IMATS has a slightly different format, in that the first hour is reserve for Pro only, and then others can attend for either the floor show exhibitors, or the talks, or both. I will be visiting on the Sunday (31st.) I am excited for the chance to see Inglot after hearing so much about them, and of course the faves Kryolan, Make Up For Ever and Illamasqua et al will be there too. I am really looking forward to seeing Lauren Luke, Koren (both Youtube royalty) and also the fanatastic Louise Young, who will be speaking about retro influences on fashion, which is something that fascinates us all. Then, the indomitable Alex Box will perform makeup set to music! I am excited to hear Dany Sanz, the founder of Make Up For Ever, talk about the product line that have made them famous: HD.

For people more interested in special effects and advanced makeup, there is as always the student competition, and various talks, including a panel discussion with the people behind the Harry Potter makeup effects, which is certain to be packed out.

From last year, the tips I have learnt are: (1) Bring wet wipes! (2) Plan ahead - this year, I know the talks I want to hear, so I will turn up early and wait at the doors if possible. There is competition to get to the most popular sessions, so be the early bird. And (3) Plan your purchases, concentrate on brands you can't easily access, or capitalise on show discounts. But don't get stuff you know you really don't need [someone keep me away from the brushes!]

Are you coming to IMATS? Would love to meet anyone coming on Sunday...?

Illamasqua "Throb" for a bawdy Queen of Hearts!

2011-01-15T20:51:00.000-08:00

Valentine's Day makeup collections are somewhat twee... That is, until Illamasqua hijacked tradition and made it a bawdy, seductive treat!

With the nail polishes alone "Throb", "Load" and "Scorn" describing an average Saturday night reveller's progress, the stage is set for the new Illamasqua Collection: "Throb".

Left to right: "Scorn" polish, "Load" polish,(£13.50) "Succubus" gloss,(£13) "Sangers" lipstick, (£15.50) "Throb" polish. (£13.50)

Mills & Boon have ensured that Throb will not simply mean, despite Illamasqua's intro: "Feel your pulse quicken, your heart throbbing in your chest". But for once, their cheeky product names have a context. I always think of Valentine's Day makeup as sweet and innocent, all about rosy cheeks and a lip stain - but here we have an inspired Alex Box created masterpiece, where the literal heart shape is echoed everywhere from the face to the lips to the nails.

I was sent "Succubus" lipgloss, a great name and the warm blood red in the sleek clear tube oozes a bold glamour that positively dares you to be provocative.

After having bought a few pencils in the fantastic sale going on right now in Selfridges, I feel well equipped to say that Illamasqua pencils and glosses are their absolute strengths. In fact I see no difference between Guerlain's super pigmented glosses and Illamasqua's - and that is not a comparison I would make lightly! The Succubus gloss is not too sticky, yet lasts hours (without staining lips!) and is intense, shiny and smells lightly of berries.

Although as I age I veer further and further away from bold lips (sob) I absolutely adore the vibrancy of this collection and the way it invites Valentine's Day to become a day for female empowerment rather than be meek and pretty in pink yet again.

Might I suggest Illamasqua "Katie" blusher, for delicate Louis XIV era pale pink cheeks? I have worn this with the "Succubus" and it just slightly takes the vixen edge off, without losing the threat altogether. But here is the product list of the official look:

Cream Foundation 100
Rich Liquid Foundation 115
Powder Foundation 105
Powder Blusher in ‘Disobey’
Powder Blusher in ‘Intrigue’
Pure Pigment in ‘Furore’
Powder Eye Shadow in ‘Heroine’ [on cheeks and eyes]
Powder Eye Shadow in ‘Sex’
Cream Pigment in ‘Emerge’ ** NEW for SS11 collection! **
Eye Liner Cake in ‘Mislead’
Sealing Gel [for eyebrows]
Precision Ink in ‘Abyss’
False Eye Lashes '021'
Lipstick in Sangers
Intense Lipgloss in Succubus

Illamasqua Throb collection is available from January 17th 2011 in Illamasqua’s Flagship Store; Selfridges London, Manchester, Birmingham; Fenwick Newcastle; Debenhams Glasgow, Belfast, Cardiff - and online at www.illamasqua.com. Plus look out for the Selfridges exclusive gift set, which adds in a blindfold and the promise to "make her throb" all for ahem, £69.

Makeup must-haves for a Christmas break

2010-12-23T17:20:00.000-08:00

Although my plan to jet off to some far away clime has been dashed by Heathrow's weather woes, I will be going away (ahem to North of UK) and as always the thought of packing is besieged by the panic of - what makeup to take?!

This year has been easier than ever though, I have my instant faves. Trish McEvoy has always been my fail-safe route, the compact and neat design system is a natural choice for travel. I recently reviewed the new Classic Brush set, and it is adorable and wonderful - an absolute pleasure to use. The brush set takes the decision making out of my hands, all I need is that and my trusty MAC 187 and I'm ready for Stage 2.

The gorgeous Trish McEvoy tiny eyeshadow "Emergency Card" was bought precisely for me to be able to think "Panic over, I've got my Emergency Card!" - I love the way it does justice to the feeling of being overwhelmed when considering what eyeshadows are needed aargh?!

I also absolutely adore my new Louise Young eyeshadow compact, which is all mattes. It seems I will take both. The Louise Young compact has only just gone live on the website and I snapped one up, I knew that it would be impeccable, and it seems it has not disappointed.

Foundation obviously Estee Lauder Double Wear. Blusher will be Bare Escentuals but I cannot decide which shade, they are all so pretty. Probably a pink though, I have been loving the Limited edition Pink Ribbon blusher from the Beyond Gorgeous Set. Side-note, I read (alas too late) that this set was on sale from a website for £18?! I have never bought from the site but it looks good, and right now they currently have a huge £111 set for £34 if that is any consolation.

I am also going to take my magic powder, MAC Perfect Topping (sadly L.E, we await its return one day.)

Lipsticks will be one frosty nude for night (MAC Front Lit, also sadly L.E) and one basic flesh nude, probably MAC Kinda Sexy. I have also just picked up MAC Stone lip liner, which Pixiwoo Nicola suggests makes lips look plumper, so will try that out and report back. I am debating the merits of a bold red lip but right now thinking against the idea.

I will probably take a liner, the Jordana liners are great (sadly not available in UK) but in truth both my eyeshadow palettes have fantastic definer shades in which I can use with my Trish angle brush and get brilliant results. I will probably take my Clarins eyebrow pencil, even though, again, I could use my Louise Young brown shade and the angle brush.

For mascara, although I really quite like the new Collection 2000 Fake Lashes, I will stay true to my Lancome Hypnose. Oh and have you tried the new Accessorize range? I love the Diamond lipglosses, so sparkly and yummy butter smell. I might pop one of those in.

Skincare wise I have just picked up Eucerin Q10, the so-called miracle cream, but although I adore its butter smell (yummy again), I fear it may be the culprit for my current breakout. Very annoying and means I will lean heavily on my reliable Origins Spot Remover to sort it. Also of course I will surreptitiously apply Lancome Effacernes to conceal all, it never lets me down. I set it with MAC Blot powder, or my fast fave, NYC Smooth Skin pressed powder in Translucent.

With my two palettes and my fairly neutral face and lip supplies, I believe I will be able to create a wild variety of looks, from deep purple smoky eye to neutral eye to brown smoky eye or russet smoky eye. And of course nothing less would suffice.

Oh and PS. My makeup bag, immortalised in this video, has been stolen! I left it out for a moment and it was gone. Inside it, aside from what was in the video, I had added in a Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge. However although I really miss the actual bag, and brush, and my Kryolan lipstick will need replacing ASAP, and of course I do feel the irritation of having to collect up a new makeup inventory to cart around, I cant help but feel proud that I deliberately packed it mainly full of samples and nubs.

That is my one fear, losing all these travel goodies - shudder - perish the thought. What are YOUR travel makeup essentials for crimbo??

Becca Fallen Angel palette: Review

2010-12-15T21:53:00.000-08:00

I recently attended a Becca event with my friend Moodeve. It wasn't a PR event but it was invite only, and with its guestlist and its dark interior and champagne and mince pies, plus a DJ at hand, we literally did forget we weren't simply enjoying a drink at a swanky bar! That is greatly to Becca's credit. From what I can tell, Becca's wistful and romantic consistently perfect promo images, combined with a soft selling approach, marks it out from the rest. It's SO refreshing to not be pressurised to buy. There was no pointed "Can I help you!" attack.

In addition there was a manicurist, and some eyelash treatment I believe, though sadly I arrived too late for either (weather was snow and ice so the journey was extra daunting.) We ambled over to the neatly arranged Becca counter where a very friendly makeup artist gently offered a makeover. Moodeve was given a beautiful smoky eye using the eye palette, minky brown and grey with a touch of purple. I caught sight of the Fallen Angel palette and was instantly struck by the apricot shades. Wearing peach blusher is relatively new to me, I'd spent years sticking to pinks. I just find peach is more natural and better with a bold eye. I bought it for the special evening discounted price of £29.50. It is usually £35.

It was only at home that I realised the amount you get it rather paltry - a Becca cream blusher is 3g for £22, and these circles are 1.3g each. So in effect you are getting £28.60 worth of product for £35. You do get a lovely compact and a little brush, but I'd have preferred no brush and more product. I have already made a dent in my palette so I doubt it will last more than a few months at best. Still, cream products are best finished quickly.

Nectar is a pure tawny coral, lasts about 3-4 hours and fades (however this is usual with cream blush on my skin so not a surprise. Lasts an hour at best on lips. Very flattering shade though when freshly applied.)

Sunrise is a more orange coral but very sheer and high shine. Appealing vanilla scent and not too sticky. However must be packed on to get brilliant gloss. Lasts longer on lips than Nectar does, and feels very moisturising.

Narcissus is the trump card for me. This tawny gold has the exact same excellent consistency of NARS Copocabana multiple, it feels creamy but dries almost to a powder, yet looks uber glossy. This looks just like real, gleaming skin. Lasts fairly well (5-6 hours) and can be extended by a light dusting of powder. I have been using a goody bag present, the Becca Loose Shimmer Powder, in Princess, which is almost a blusher shade on me but works ideally with Narcissus.

Please watch my video review here for a closer look.

Overall grade 7/10

-- Because I love the shades and on its own cream product terms, they work great. Best for: a quick pick-me-up.

Becca Fallen Angel palette, limited edition, £35

http://www.beccacosmetics.com/

[picture above taken from Becca website]

Generic Geriatric

2010-12-13T20:17:00.000-08:00

Getting old is now out of style. Wrinkles are shunned more than ever, and procedures which mimic (yet never quite convince) continue to feign plump dewy skin. More worrying still, perhaps the most distressing aspect of plastic surgery: the trend to efface individuality, ethnicity, and in short, personality.

I have nothing against plastic surgery per se; I knew a friend who grew up so tormented by her (how can I put this delicately) huge banana nose, that she would pretend to have a perpetual cold - a handkerchief functioning as a permanent shield. At 16 she had a nose job, and now is confident and walks with her head held high. Who could condemn such an outcome?

Recently I was watching an interview on TV with Bette Midler and I saw elements of Kylie Minogue. The two look nothing alike naturally, but evidently some generalsing ingredient is at work. Spot the difference:

Clearly as a laudable result of the triumph of feminism combined with general modern ideology, women are no longer expected to hang their boots at 30. Instead, wearing tight leather and indeed thigh high boots is probably now becoming the domain of the over 30s proving they still are desirable - if anything more desirable, they try to insist. Marketing campaigns to appeal to women with cash to spare (professional women or bored housewives - no matter) are encouraged by visions of Sex and the City, or Sharon Stone and Andie McDowell fronting skincare adverts; Kate Moss, Charlize Theron fronting perfume adverts. Gone is the option to resign yourself to fate and nature's cruel finality. If attractiveness has been intrinsically linked to fertility and youth, then fake that and carry on as you were. Of course nature is still a powerful Titan, but science conquers all.

Hacking and stretching and plumping their way towards perfection, we are deluged with celebrities who all blend into each other, particularly as they age. And character-full noses or features which betray too much ethnicity, are ebbed away to present an apparition of Beauty.

In modern times where ostensibly there is an acceptance for global beauty, it appears that the reality is that what we really have come to accept is the perfect mix - caramel skin, westernised features. Too much divergence risks their universal appraisal.

Of course there is a timeless and borderless appreciation for beauty, which has been broadly summarised as long limbs, even features: in short, the mathematical inherent nature of beauty as a calming vision. But ageing has historically been a time for beauty to mellow and be replaced by sober dignity, untempered by the pressures of being attractive. Yet now women expect themselves to remould their beauty and re-instate their youth by force.

- This is a good thing! Our lifespans are longer, therefore by default the stretch of time we feel inclined to be fertile/attractive is accordingly extended. Of course only a bigot would return to the days in which a 40 year old single lady could only be described as a hopeless spinster, and dictate that women should know their place, etc. Nevertheless, the trend for plastic surgery which gives women a mask, is horrifying too. Men in the public eye also succumb to plastic surgery, but women have makeup tricks to easily soften and enhance their surgeon's work, which arguably gives them a dangerous carte blanche.

Unfortunately, big noses and big lips seem to go hand in hand if left to nature...

Noses must be straight, denying its atavistic qualities, and of course hair smooth and preferably lightened....

Skin must be taut, put cheekbones or lip enhancements in for any softness though... And (optional but advised) at this stage, best get a toy-boy to complete the effect.

And if your features are not the ideal man's woman, just shape them until they are...

I actually really miss Jordan's old nose, it was much more elegant. She was so much better before. Oh dear at what she has become...

(Couldn't do a piece on plastic surgery without this one, ouch it hurts to look at that wince. Poor thing.)

And those who believe surgery enables them to distil the best parts of their beauty...

Kim Kardashian used to look like her sister, now she looks like her mum (mystery... ahem)

*Disclaimer: I have no medical training and all opinion is subjective.

All photos from Google.

...What are your thoughts?