Barbie at The Design Museum: REVIEW!

Some of you might remember my scathing post about the recent Barbie film. I did however, commend them on the props and set, and I'm not sure I mentioned it but the end credits had a montage of the history of Barbie dolls through the ages, arguably the best part of the film. Well, like the film, this exhibition begins at the beginning: Barbie No.1. Iconic, resplendent, exceedingly pale, with a platinum high ponytail, graphic eye shadow, red lips, red nails, monochrome swimsuit, kitten heels. Calm, poised, sunglasses in hand. Mesmerising and transcending fashion and time. Luckily, this exhibition does not then disintegrate into a puddle of self congratulation, even as it does show the spirit of Barbie compromised for the good of society.

After all, as the exhibition coyly alludes, Barbie was inspired by a novelty German sex doll, Lilli  - a sexually provocative curvy doll which men could dress in different outfits, festoon their trucks with, joke gift, or generally see as a tool for their misogyny and superiority. How empowering then, that this was usurped by Ruth Handler, the creator of Barbie. Young girls now had the option to play with aspirational (albeit impossibly beautiful and successful) adult dolls rather than doll versions of little girls and babies. I couldn't help but wonder if by allowing Barbie to be darker, curvier, shorter, disabled, humbled, and in summary, relatable, the very essence of Barbie was eroded. As once upon a time, being a model meant one gasped in awe, and today one most likely replies, yeah I'm also a model. These unattainable achievements were once the stuff of child's play, but today we all have apps and editing tools and skills which can be learned for free online or watched and absorbed via tutorials, and every condition or mood has its own social media ambassador. One needn't play alone and ascribe role playing when one can hop online and have a reddit thread with real people... And yet, Barbie still holds her allure. Last year the film was able to ignite 'Barbiecore'; there is still a thirst for the unapologetic Dream House, pink outfits, big hair - joy in the feminine power and its ability to threaten and reduce men. 

The various iterations of Ken pale into insignificance next to the hundred Barbie dolls. Always officially no more than Barbie's boyfriend, the unspoken and seemingly denied gay identity of some Kens - particularly "earring magic Ken" who some rather persuasively insist wears a cock ring on his necklace, are no more than a side show to Barbie's world.

A world where home ownership began before it began for real life women (women in US, up until almost the mid 1970s, were still denied mortgage applications unless they were married; Barbie homes however were introduced in the 1960s.) 

BARBIE FASHION DINING ROOM

SET, 1984

BARBIE MAGICAL MANSION, 1990

BARBIE FAMILY HOUSE,1998

BARBIE DREAM FURNITURE COLLECTION, 1978

The friends, who came to include by the 1960s "Coloured Francie" and more ‘on trend’ afro haired friends into the 70s, resulted finally in the first ever Black Barbie in 1980. Perhaps some latent 'othering' with the tagline on the box, "She's black! She's beautiful! She's dynamite!" But no use to nitpick when the general direction was clearly that of progress. Culminating in an animated Barbie anti racism video in 2020 following the George Floyd murder.

The interesting thing about the Design museum, and I did have a quick look around upstairs too, is the emphasis on branding, marketing and identity. In spite of the capitulations to a changing world and a changing audience, Mattel has succeeded in keeping hold of an unmistakable Barbie heartbeat. Perhaps it's the endearingly vacant gaze of a Barbie. Never haughty, yet always confident and knowing. A certain tilt of the head, or the long neck and splayed out arms.

 

The logo has come full circle, returning to its original 1959 script.

TWIST 'N TURN BARBIE DOLL, 1967

 

BEAD BLAST BARBIE DOLL, 1997

WALK LIVELY BARBIE DOLL, 1972

FASHION QUEEN

BARBIE DOLL, 1963

BARBIE DOLL, WEARING

'REGISTERED NURSE,

1961

GUINEVERE, 1964 

CINDERELLA', 1964

My favourite. The 1964 “Little Theatre” edition came with a script book, with doll-sized theatrical costumes (available separately, naturally.)

Barbie is on at The Design Museum London until 23rd February 2025

Recommended: 9/10

Aveda Tulasara dry facial brush: REVIEW!

In these trying times, something professing to channel yogic energy into your beauty routine, is most welcome. Tulasara means “moving towards balance” in Sanskrit. As Aveda explain:

The first step in your radiant awakening ritual, dry brushing is a gentle exfoliating technique from Ayurveda, the ancient Indian art of wellness, called gharsana. 

• gently exfoliates dry, dull cells from skin's surface
• ultra-soft nylon bristles formed in rounded peaks help massage and lift away dull surface cells
• exfoliation helps support natural cellular turnover
• promotes smooth, soft skin
• helps prepare skin to take in nourishing tulasāra

My skin has changed into skin I never thought I’d have (sigh.) All my life my skin was dewy and I had an oily T Zone. Now it’s dry on my forehead and chin. I have flaking and visible pores. It doesn’t seem so long ago that I pressed my face against the mirror and congratulated myself, “I’m poreless!” Ah, memories. I bought all manner of exfoliants and scrubs but nothing helped. The only thing which did finally stop the dryness was only using a toner (Paula’s Choice replenishing toner) and moisturiser (I used up various samples I had lying around, in particular I liked, but not sure I’d buy, Emma Hardie Midas Touch revitalising cream.) Additionally I really hate to admit this, but not wearing makeup has let my skin get less dry too. But this brush truly does seem to help! (Gasp)

At £27 (in my defence I used a gift card) this was a bit of a gamble. I wondered, how different could this brush be to let’s say, using a scratchy brush such as the abrasive Guerlain terracotta or Météorites brush (!) But somehow this brush does seem to make my skin rosy and therefore apparently does help with blood circulation and who knows, maybe lymphatic drainage and any other benefit accredited to an ancient ritualistic system.

What I can say regardless, is that using this for a minute or so, in a circular motion, and then using my new favourite oil patted in (Antipodes Blessing serum - a light oil as heavy oils still do not suit me) has given me a calming start to my day, which also seems to be helping my skin look better and less dry. I was sure this would be a “silly buy” but in fact I’m very impressed. 

By the way I am also trying to take this time to improve my yoga moves. My brother lives nearby and allows me to use his garden, he doesn’t use it at all, so I amble over there and use it for my allocated exercise time. That way I don’t have to deal with my own neighbours snooping and I can practise unimpeded. If it weren’t for my workouts and yoga I think I’d be getting quite depressed. And I’ve found an Indian guru called Sadhguru - he has a huge following so you might know him already. He’s been doing daily YouTube videos whilst this virus is on. He has some very profound and uplifting wisdom and a great sense of humour too. I fast forward the chanting so don’t let that intimidate you as it did for me. I listen to him as I drift off to sleep.

I really can see that Indian philosophy is very inspiring - I like that they put equal emphasis on the mind and on the body. If you read a lot and are very learned, you can die early because your body will let you down. Conversely if you just focus on your body and face, you forget that your mind is the true precious and irreplaceable part of you and makes you, you.

Anyway here’s the brush and I give it a definite thumbs UP! Let me know if you have tried it, in the comments below :)

Aveda Tulasara dry facial brush

Bare Minerals BarePro Concealer review (shade Fair Cool 01)

I am not reckless enough to be a foundation addict - Estee Lauder Doublewear has been my HG for more years than I care to mention - but I am often to be distracted by the launch of a good looking concealer or highlighter. I bought this BareMinerals BarePro 16 Hour concealer the very weekend it launched in the UK (from Debenhams), which has now given me enough time to cast my judgement. They didn't have testers yet, so I played it safe and opted for the lightest shade, Fair Cool 01, (2.5g, £23.) It seemed from looking at the opened products that the next shade down was rather similar - so I don't know if 01 is my optimal shade. These come in a wide range of shades, with different undertones,11 in all, which span from light through to dark. I would expect that any tone can easily find a match. Having said that, I did assume Fair Cool would be more pink rather than yellow, but it is a cool toned yellow if such a thing can exist, and it works well;

 

 

 

 blended

I was in a hurry to get this because LisaLisaD1 on YouTube recommended it, and she is the most knowledgeable beauty guru out there, if you ask me. Lisa tries everything, and is able to compare products so accurately. I appreciate her talent to isolate textures and colours to the most infinitesimal degree. She claimed that this was reminiscent of the Clé de Peau famed concealer, which I'd always planned to try. I've tried La Mer concealer and was underwhelmed, so I kept putting off spending a wad of cash again. Hence I pounced on this one!

When I first tried it, I applied it directly from the stick. I'm not familiar with solid concealers, the closest I have come to this is the dearly departed Benefit It Stick, a fairly useful thing to cart around; or Smashbox Look Less Tired, useful to a point, but a terrible let down to me. Mainly due to its absurd glitter packaging, but also it wasn't the best anyway. Both of those are pencils but they are broadly similar in texture to this BarePro concealer. The difference is, BarePro is much softer and smoother so it blends super easily. It also contains many healthy sounding ingredients:

 

ingredients

Applying it liberally gave a surprisingly chalky effect, and furthermore, it didn't seem to last on my oily skin. I began to regret my purchase and doubt Lisa for the very first time. Well I should never have doubted the master! After watching a tutorial she posted, I saw her use a brush and daintily take just a tad to cover her undereyes. I used the brush recommended by Bare Escentuals, the Bare Escentuals max cover brush (incidentally my favourite concealer brush and highly worth getting) and I realised: this is a concealer where less really is more. It wore much better when used sparingly, and it's densely pigmented so it covers well. The tone neutralises redness and brightens under my eyes too. Although it's only 2.5g, I see that it will last well.

 

My favourite concealer is the OG Lancome Effacernes (sadly I hear they messed with a good thing, and the new version is not the same. I still have 2 backups so I can only assume this is true whilst I stay blissfully in denial) and I also love Bobbi Bown Tinted eye brightener, which I'm upset to learn has been or is being discontinued! Why! (luckily I have a backup and after it's gone I will investigate Laura Mercier's similar looking offering which just launched, if it's still going by the time I need it...) I also like, to a lesser extent, the cream pot corrector concealers by Bobbi Brown, and Youngblood concealer. And who could be without some brightening reflective concealers, the king of which has to be YSL Touche Eclat, and a pinker more concealing version is MAC Radiant Rose Prep and Prime Highlighter, another LisaLisaD1 rec. I also like and perhaps should have included, Bare Minerals Stroke of Light, which is similar and better value as you get more product, but I can't help admitting that the MAC one is more pigmented and effective. However in my opinion I'm not sure its slight superiority justifies the amount to cost ratio. I also recommend using Estee Lauder Maximum coverage foundation as a concealer. I've had mine for aeons and it's pretty great albeit with a propensity to get stodgy if you're not careful. So in this convoluted hierarchy I'd say BarePro is third favourite, which considering its two usurpers are essentially discontinued, in some ways makes it First Place. In conclusion, I recommend this - give it a try!

 

 the concealer shortlist 

... Have you tried this concealer? 

Please let me know your thoughts down below!

The £1.49 hair miracle oil

For months now, I have struggled. My loyal and faithful hair colourist absconded from duties. She is now a 2 hour trip away, which ultimately became too ridiculous. For some reason it's proving impossible to find a colourist equal to her skills. I am very fussy and a perfectionist, and have been lurching from one poor job to the next.

I have tried to steer towards chains but I've now had horrible services with HOB and with RUSH and my hair has been suffering. (If anyone has a great hair colourist in London I am keen to hear from you...!?)

Anyhow, to help matters, I've used Redken anti-snap and also had a couple of Olaplex treatments. But, I must say, this unassuming bottle has proven the cheapest by far, and surprisingly effective! I much prefer it to Moroccanoil as it has no silicones and it's surprisingly non-greasy. It's also been a joy to use on my hands and cuticles. It's in the "ethnic hair" aisle in Superdrug, but I have Caucasian fine hair and it's not been too heavy for me.

Give it a try, only £1.49 at Superdrug!

Guerlain Holiday 2017 thoughts

The other day I was able to take a look at Guerlain's latest holiday offering at House of Fraser. I must say, the sales assistant was very knowledgeable (Jessica) which was most refreshing! We were able to reminisce about past Christmas collections and debate which meteorites were the best ones yet. (a fraught topic which could induce fisticuffs.) Sadly, I came away without the new meteorites. I love the gold opulent house it's in, but the perles themselves are just a touch too glittery for my liking. The lipsticks, whilst wonderful, are red, and as much as I love red lipsticks, they initiate so much cacophony when worn, that I rarely get to use the enormous collection I already have. Terracotta Gold light was similar enough to the erstwhile Sun in the City, which is in fact too gold for me to use.

So, this post will only discuss the Guerlain top coat mascara in Gold Light. "Adorn your lashes, eyebrows and hair with precious hints of gold!" Guerlain advises. Incidentally, Guerlain have the best writers, and best images. This year the inspiration comes from an art-deco 1920s jazz age and evokes Americans in Paris. The colour scheme is black and gold. Take a look:

Gild your eyes with the luxurious GUERLAIN Gold Light Top Coat - Lash, Brow and Hair Mascara, a limited edition mascara that will frame eyes in molten metal.

Inspired by the preciousness of gold, this sumptuous, glimmering top coat will help you to create an endless array of luxurious looks with a bold twist. Its deep golden hue sparkles with intensity, transforming your look in a single stroke.

Apply to the tips of your lashes, or through your brows and hair to create add a festive finish to your everyday look.

I haven't bought this yet, purely because I first wanted to check it didn't smudge or fall out. Although I think it did fade, I loved the dainty fairy lights effect, and it did not flake or fall. It's like a dusting of sparkle over your usual black mascara, and it manages to be gold but not infantile. This is definitely not a 'need', but ironically that's exactly why it's such a must-have. It's imperceptible until you blink or your eyelashes catch the light. It's a snip (for Guerlain) at £20.50, and I've seen it online for £18.45 here (N/A link)

The only thing I am upset by, is the packaging. It contains less product than, say, Maxi Lash (one of my favourite mascaras) at 4.5g, but why does it have to look like a tester? If ever a mascara deserved to be in an ornate gold tube, it's when it's a gold mascara topper, surely!

Nonetheless, I will be getting this as I think it's a beautifully done. And I thought it might be easily mimicked by an Urban Decay gold heavy metal liner I had, but that is a glitter and the Guerlain is more of a liquid gilding. I also had a liquid gold body lotion which I thought I could apply with an eyeliner brush, but this too failed to create a convincing gold flash. So: this is a unique product which I highly recommend. These pictures were taken at the end of a long day, but the effect has remained.

Random Haul and review time :)

Despite being slack with my blogging duties, I have not 'put down the makeup brush' - I am just as addicted to makeup as ever. Usually I buy in moderate quantities but I felt there were enough goodies this time to just about warrant a haul blog post.

The first thing was another Estee Lauder Lucidity powder (have I mentioned this before? If not I should have...) it's one of the best powders to use with Double Wear foundation. Then, more excitingly, I spotted the new and presumably limited edition "3 minute beauty" bag. The bag itself is probably my favourite ever "GWP" EL bag - and I have a fair few to choose between. It's patterned but transparent, and it's small and slimline with an elegant gold zip that opens it out wide. It contains a full size Illuminating BB Highlighter pen in Soft Pink (2.2ml); a ubiquitous 7ml size of everyone's fave, Advanced night Repair serum; a mini lipgloss in Discreet Nude (surely an oxymoron); and a mini 3.4g size of Bronze Goddess bronzer in Medium 02. The bronzer is slightly pink toned and I really like it. Guerlain Terracotta still reigns supreme but this is a very respectable runner up - and it's oil free so it might even prove better in the summer. The lipgloss is ok but feels a little heavy (I have a low tolerance for sticky or heavy lipgloss and - you guessed it - Guerlain maxi shine is my favourite lipgloss; this doesn't compete. The BB highlighter is great - very much like YSL Touche Eclat (most are never as reflective) but with a little more coverage. The case is a little bulky and I've not decided which I prefer, there is something too classic about YSL Touche Eclat, it feels rude to question its Top Dog status. Plus YSL Touche Eclat is nice and slim and contains more product (2.5ml) so the bulky pen is needlessly deceptive.

 

 Estee Lauder 3 Minute beauty Bronze and Glow

 

Close up of Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Medium 

My local chemist has sold Guerlain for decades and I always enjoyed stopping by every (ahem) once in a while for a quick pick me up product. Hence I became a bona fide Guerlain addict. The way Guerlain font is, reminds me of the way I write my own name. Well, ok, it's very much a prettified version, but I always viewed Guerlain as my surrogate makeup line. Every item is so exquisitely packaged and balanced, and most of the time the product inside is every bit as good. Anyway, tragedy has struck: Guerlain is being wrenched off their shelves! I will still get my Guerlain fix, and the upcoming collection looks very tempting as always. But it won't be quite so convenient...

Mourning aside, my chemist did find some abandoned gems which I snapped up. The pressed Meteorites were replaced years ago by a non multi coloured powder (c'mon now Guerlain, you know we want to see that green popping) in fact it's now beige, not very luminous, and to be frank I find it can even get chalky. Something Meteorites balls themselves never do. But the Meteorites balls are very bulky and I pared down most of my collection, all except the Opera balls, which are my favourite release as they have a sumptuous golden beige glow that gives me that elusive "Bonne mine" look. But I digress. This Mythic is identical to the balls of Mythic but without quite so much bulk. I do prefer the packaging of the new pressed meteorites (this uses the same twist cap packaging as the Cruel Gardenia if anyone has that incredible piece.)
 

Guerlain Mythic pressed powder

 

Next my magpie gaze was arrested by the sight of the Guerlain maxi gloss Gloss D'Enfer in 902 which is wildy sparkly. Guerlain lipgloss used to be wonderful but too sticky, these are still wonderful and really do have what Guerlain promises, "bare lip sensation."

 

Guerlain maxi shine lipgloss 902

Next, another unearthed winning but limited edition wonder- the Terracotta Sun shimmer highlighting blusher called Sunny Pink. It's a peachy pink gleaming blusher but I shan't dwell on it as I fear it's impossible to find under normal circumstances. Hope they bring this one back!

 

Guerlain Terracotta blush Sunny Pink

 

My favourite ever liquid eyeliner is the Guerlain previously Divinora but now apparently merely called Guerlain eyeliner. The shade I adore is called Brun Cendre. It's a deep dark cool brown and the fine brush is easy to use while always giving a delicate crisp thin line. It's also very long wearing and never smudges, even during workouts.

 

 Guerlain eyeliner Brun Cendre

 

Finally, I just couldn't resist Guerlain's new foundation brush. I have several Guerlain brushes and I hate to admit it, but they are scratchy and not much cop. This one even looked flimsy in the Guerlain official Youtube videos - but it's peach, even the bristles are peach! I prefer my Real Techniques Expert Face brush for foundation. But! I've found I love this for a powerful highlight application. This brush is not scratchy, however despite claiming to be cut perfectly round for a seamless finish, mine has hairs splaying out. It's synthetic hair so it's overpriced, and the case is disappointingly cheap feeling and looks cheap too... But they know it's pretty enough that it will still win out. I love it anyway.

 

 Guerlain The foundation brush

 

 

 Cheapie pouch... Not like the Pucci of yore but I suppose better than nothing...

couple of splayed hairs upclose

I'm really thrilled with all my purchases, even the brush, as it's brilliant for applying highlighter and getting the full impact - it's small enough and gives a dense application.


...Please share any good hauls you've had recently!