Embracing blue lips...

 

The book I have been reading for months now (mainly as I keep re-reading passages and researching further, it is rather addictive and enthralling - review to come shortly enough!) is the L'Oreal commissioned "100,000 Years of Beauty".

It reminds me of when I was young (adopt voice: "In my day...") when I spent hours with my grandma's precious Encyclopedia Britannica volumes. This tome is the Encyclopedia Britannica of Beauty! Every page is a lesson in itself and the varied voices make this even more enriching. Lately I was struck by this truism, which I had always wondered about, and which for all the bluster of modern rebels Illamasqua et al, still rings out:

     "The persistent rejection of blue and green for lips and face can be explained by the fact that the skin of the face and lips silently conveys extremely powerful messages. An eyelid dusted with violet, set against a fresh complexion, is not perceived as a bruise, and a mouth ringed in fluorescent yellow fools no one. But bluish or greenish lips immediately evoke cyanosis [deficiency of oxygen in the blood] or poisoning. These colours are distress signals that cannot be taken lightly[....] At no time has society exploited the huge stock of pigments available to modify the colour of skin and lips in any radical way. Respect for natural complexion has survived despite all the revolutions in cosmetics since 1850. This phenomenon goes far beyond the desire to appear young and fresh - it would seem that the colour of the face and the lips involves what might be called an 'archaic foundation' in which the colour red embodies a biological dynamism and thirst for life that, even today, can be neither ignored nor violated."

In broad terms, the beauty values we prize have been largely unaffected by the fact that we now live in an age of photoshop (which, frankly, has been around since the first ever photograph was taken by our Victorian counterpart, who would painstakingly erase anything unappealing) - and modern beauty remedies.

Ironically, beauty salves started off by being homemade mother to daughter recipes made in a kitchen - only relatively recently exploding into modern, Metropolis inspired, Lab-produced products... These 'potions' are unrelentingly advertised as the answer to our prayers; the appetite for beauty has certainly proven itself to be a billion pound industry worth mining. Yet, again, plus ça change, we now see more and more companies who proudly insist their creams are all "natural" "homemade", "ancient secret recipes", made to order, etc. Nasty sounding additives are deliberately highlighted on packaging by their absence. Like E numbers in food, which were created to assure people of their Lab-approved identity, nowadays nothing is more gruesome than an abundance of E numbers, and similarly in beauty products, sulphates etc are shunned wherever possible.

It seems that whatever era we are in, we can never feel "Beauty" can exist unless it is moored in nature. Whether that be natural human colouring or natural ingredients, the inherent aim is to improve nature and create our own being.

In many ways I think that is why I am excited by Illamasqua's hugely time-consuming new collection concept. The enormous cast of characters, part of the "Art of Darkness": a delightful play on one of the best novellas ever, Joseph Conrad's "Heart of Darkness." (I was told by my tutor that word for word this has the most practical criticism ever written on any book of all time, and hardly surprising if you read it and allow the story to take hold.) The further inspiration for Illamasqua's collection seems to be ancient Egypt (the scarab beetle on the nail polish; the distinctively Egyptian ornate mirror) but equally, elements seem to be taken from ancient biblical Kings and Queens. It is an overwhelming mix of cultures and themes. But that is what I enjoy about it: the tale of how,

"Lured by the promise of immortality, a host of fantastical beings try their hand at creating the ever-elusive Elixir of Life. The resulting potions dazzle the eye and ensnare the senses, a beautiful array of jewel-like substances. They may not deny mortality, but they do make the theatre of life a more colourful stage on which to play."

The decadence and futility of beating nature and creating beauty is as old as time. But it is fun trying, and capturing our quest for the Elixir of life. Illamasqua address this dichotomy, between the unending search - and the stagnation of reality.

Do you think there will ever be a time when true "futuristic" beauty will come? Will blue lips ever be mainstream accepted beauty: there for Beauty's sake and not for any shock value? It seems the facts deny this, but could that change...?

Pics from top: Vogue Italia, June 2010 (who advise it be worn for a very special evening, "deep and very glossy.")  Illamasqua A/W 2010, Paul Smith and House of Holland S/S 2010, Kesha wearing blue lips both before and during her performance at Casio's Shock the World 2010 event. Photo: Getty Images | AP

Beauty tips and tricks I've learnt this year (so far)

This morning I decided to road test Pixiwoo's tip, using the MAC 224 as an undereye concealer brush. And whaddya know, those girls do know a thing or two about makeup. Suddenly any concealer, however inept, blends seamlessly and works! I used my loathsome Laura Mercier Secret Concealer under my eyes, and for the first time ever, it actually delivered. It still is most certainly not one I'd recommend, but the 224 means I will not be binning it afterall. The 224 is an excellent blending brush but somewhat shapeless and huge for crease work (I have fallen for Louise Young's excellent crease brush instead, which Pixiwoo said was like "the old 224" before it was changed.)

So I have taken this as my cue to collect up other tips learnt along the way so far. And hopefully encourage anyone to share theirs below....? 

 Mascara your lashes downwards before upwards, this covers any eyeshadow fallout you might have incurred, also has the benefit of simaltaneously coating your bottom lashes.

 Only apply powder on areas you need to - i.e cheeks left glowing. Powdered cheeks are so ageing!

 Lipgloss is great as you get older, just be aware of the gruesome ones that do that horrific saliva strand thing ewwwww e.g MAC Underage et al. The ones that never do that are Guerlain (absolute fave). Then Estee Lauder (these seem good so far but are somewhat sticky), Make Up for Ever Full Couleur (not sticky at all), and let's admit certain MAC lipglasses, but be very careful... (their Liberty ones and Style Warrior ones were all safe.)

 Eyelids get greasier and more hooded the older you get. Furthermore, wrinkles start to loom menacingly as you apply your eye makeup. Time to make gel liner your staple. Applying with a brush means less tugging, and tends to stay on far longer than pencils or liquid liners. Cake liner is also good, but less weather proof/gym proof.

 Invest in good brushes. Yes they are boring at first (quickly becomes addictive, mind) and seem like a waste of "makeup money" but they make all the difference. They also can prevent needlessly scratching your face and eyes as you apply products - and they make products go further, thus saving money in the long-term. Eyeshadow applies more vibrantly and foundation is saved by expert application.

 Stationary/ Office supplies are perfect for makeup organising. As TiffanyD on Youtube explained, most makeup does look like stationary so it makes sense. Having makeup organised and depotted helps prevent buying too many dupes. And I refuse to become one of those collectors with dozens and dozens of taupe twins.

 Decide what suits you and never waver. I have finally conceded that red toned eyeshadows will never flatter me. Ditto blue toned lipsticks. MAC Lady Gaga lipstick, I tried so hard to pretend it looked great, and piled on apricot lipgloss... No. And, gorgeous rusty eyeshadows, pinky eyeshadows - I am drawn to the colours but once on my eyelids it's a disaster. If seven people in a day ask "What happened to your eye?" I've realised that means a bad makeup day. Know your limits. I am all for saying "makeup is Art - wear what you want" etc etc, but the reality is more dictatorial.

 Wear appropriate makeup. Similar to the point above, I have realised that sometimes more is less. As you get older, bright eyeshadow has to be carefully managed. Resist the easy mistake to blend upwards. Instead, blend along your natural crease, and bring colour out into a cat eye. Too much colour looks desperate and/or silly. When you are in the flush of youth it looks great, but there is something unpleasant about an old face with too much unnatural colour. Again, I hate admitting these things, but reality, again, must be observed.

What have you to share? Please comment below with any useful beauty ideas........

I'm not on twitter, but if I was....

...I'd follow this hilarious and insightful makeup artist, Jenny Patinkin:

http://twitter.com/jennypatinkin

for gems such as:

If your eyes turn down at outer corners, try shortening the tail on your brow by a few hairs to give illusion of lift. Just don't overpluck! 

You know it's bad MU when: A 12-year-old girl comments on the color disparity in some random woman's face and neck. 

Lash extensions, I'm just not that into you. You're pricey, time consuming, needy & leave gaps when u shed. Don't call me, I'll call u. 

Dear Gray-Haired-Lady-with-Penciled-Eyebrows-in-Matching-Gray: Your brows look blue. Taupe is a more flattering shade. Use powder not wax. 

It's hard for me to think of @lancomeparis as anything but a dull mall line, but kinda like their Effacernes Waterproof Concealer. [-agreed!!]

If u attempt hot pink shadow, u gotta go all out or risk looking like you have conjunctivitis. Pink eyeshadow=trendy. Pink Eye=infectious.

Smokey eyes + office job = not being taken seriously. Would u hire anyone w/makeup like Kim Kardashian? Smokey is 2 distracting 4 work. [-hate to agree, but, agreed!]

Attn Sephora employee who pointed me to product with your foot: U just lost my business. Embarrassing customer service. Sheesh.

Equal parts hilarious and useful, her tips and insider opinions are well worth a follow. Her website shows some of her work, and this video I found gives great tips on foundation and concealer for everyday. And see this one for blue eyes to look electric.  

Twitter has never appealed to me because of the notorious spats, swearing, accusations, gloating, competetiveness and all manner of mindless chatter that beauty "gurus" seem to get absorbed into. And although as Kim Kardashian (!) or Michelle Phan show, Twitter is a great networking device, I can't avoid remembering people who have deleted their accounts because of some puerile Twitter fight, etc. I also find it so ridiculous that many high profile companies use Twitter as a personal account and really forget it is still on Google. I remember looking up a certain PR company  because I was being ignored, and finding all sorts of swearing and low brow humour revealing exactly who was in the office. It is so baffling how people think Twitter or any social network is a bubble where they can let loose.

However, if I knew it was aswash with makeup artists giving out entertaining pearls of wisdom...

For now I have bookmarked her Twitter feed, but I highly recommend it for any bona fide Twitter followers, if only to diversify the "beauty voice" out there! You won't regret it.

Beauty 10 Commandments: Advice for desperate addicts

 As a makeup and beauty addict (say it with me) I have fallen into various traps, driven by a desperate hyteria that can only be quenched by the next big purchase. However as advancing age looms, the wizened and critical force to objectify the mania wavers falteringly before me.

I hereby collect up the ten tips that may help us all.

1. If it's Limited Edition, don't panic!

Yes, buy a backup if you love it. I know, we should fight against the company's wicked manipulation to trigger the wartime rations impulse of hoarding before it's too late - but it's only makeup and we enjoy the collecting as much as they enjoy the profit margins. If you love it, buy two. But, don't do what I do, and buy six or however many you calculate will last your lifespan. It will be repromoted, either explicitly or anonymously, in the company's future offerings. And if it isn't, let's face it: with all the billions of different brands and products open to us, is any colour truly unique? I want to say yes too, but rationally? Don't panic when it's limited edition, sold out, or "rare".

2. Don't get blinded by hype.

Like fashion, don't forget what suits you before you get swept up in the latest new must-haves. Trends are great, but being a fashion victim is excruciating. That new lilac lipstick/ bubblegum pink might not look good to anyone outside of the beauty community vacuum. We all love it but the man on the street thinks what the hell is she thinking. F** them it's my life, etc. Yes, but dearie you should stick with pinky coral lips and a rosy coral blusher. The purple blusher and lilac lips simply don't look pretty once out of their packaging, OK? Think about the hyped up trends: (a)Does the colour suit YOU; (b) Do you have dupes already? (c) Will you look back at the photos and squirm? Let this be your sacred checklist and you will be fine.

3. Don't get swayed by celebrity endorsements.

"Angelina Jolie uses this lipstick." The magic words that will have a million women flooding the counters. I hate to be mean, but Angelina Jolie could probably make your Barry M chalky lipstick look great too. But without making it personal, one woman's natural lip pigmentation makes a lipstick look pink, another makes it look mauve, and the difference is drastic - so just hold on before you attribute a celebrity's beauty with their favourite product. I love knowing what makeup a celebrity is using, especially ones who you can tell revel in beauty as much as we do (i.e Kim Kardashian) but aside from the fact that one woman's winning formula is another's disaster zone, celebrities are not above corruption and might sometimes promote without true conviction. Allow yourself to be inspired, but just exercise caution on all counts.

4. Don't buy makeup for the wrong reasons.

If it's for charity, who would be so callous as to say that's a bad reason? It's a great reason. Try to remember about what colour suits you as you buy it, but anyway, charity is always to be encouraged. I am referring rather to the danger of buying a product for its scientific claims. Organic; Anti-Ageing; Smoothing; Moisturising. These buzz words should all probably be ignored, as they are usually arbitrary. I want to like organic stuff but often they simply don't perform as well. I want my makeup to last, or my deodorant to work. Unfortunately limiting ingredients often limits the effectiveness of a product. Obviously ethical concerns, (as with charity) remains a justified reason for purchases. Just don't be unduly influenced by the words on the box.

5. Update and assess your makeup habits.

Put simply: What suited you a few years ago looks like mutton dressed as lamb now. Your makeup and the way you dress unfortunately has to be age appropriate. Pressures of society mean that neon green eyeshadow looks cute on a 16 year old and embarrassing on a 30 year old. I wish it weren't so but it is. Hair colour changes also can make your once perfect makeup staples look dated or off. Don't get stuck in a makeup rut. Conversely, that taupe eyeshadow you are addicted to, have you ever thought plummy purple might look great instead? Don't be worried that adding colour will make you look like a clown. A shot of colour might be just the boost your face needs.

6. Don't match your makeup to your outfit.

This is a personal pet peeve I suppose, but to my mind, matching makeup to your outfit always looks like you are trying too hard. Makeup is best when it gives the impression that it was just thrown on absently, and you would look great with it on or off. When it draws attention for matching your dress, you are edging closer to admitting that makeup is a deliberate crutch. It also looks old-fashoned, unimaginative and twee. Matching your nail varnish can be cute, and red lipstick to a red dress is fine, but matching pink lipstick to a pink dress, or worse - matching eyeshadow to an outifit... cringeworthy.

7. Makeup rules are there to be broken. But anarchy is overrated.

Yes they say dark eyes and bold lips are a no-go. Yes they say lipstick is for lips. But this eyeshadow makes a great blusher. Innovation and defiance in the face of prescribed makeup rules is all well and good. But just think: clichés and stereotypes and rules are usually borne out of elements of truth. "Beauty is truth, truth beauty" after all, as that most famous and enigmatic quote goes. Remember that makeup has been around for a LONG time, the quest for beauty is never-ending, and certain "rules" that have come about, cannot be written off: they have probably been tried, tested, failed, and thus crystallized as a rule.


8. Makeup has a shelf-life, a stale collection is worthless.

Makeup is not going to last forever, so break into that deluxe compact and enjoy it whilst you can. Rotten makeup is smelly and ugly, even the packaging will look dated if you give it time, so it won't make you happy to collect it and leave it untouched. Take a photo for posterity if you must.


9. Turn that frown upside down, etc.

Can anything rival the delight of shoe shopping? Here are my brand new Victorian style booties for reference:
Perhaps nothing can beat that high. But, an incredible tonic for depression is to put your face on. If you're upset, put on your mascara and blush. Instant lift guaranteed. Don't go barefaced because you feel you don't have the stamina or happiness to put on some jolly colour. Go extra glam if you're feeling glum, it will always help. 

10. Respect your makeup addiction if it makes you happy.

Enjoy your makeup shopping and don't get jaded. Respect your tried and trusted HGs and don't compulsively go searching for their new rival. Well, unless you feel you've outgrown the old standby. Hype can blind you to override your own personal faves. Take time out to 'shop your stash' before you unwittingly buy a million dupes. Build up a flattering colour identity that you know works. Enjoy new product launches, but not at the expense of your true love products. Don't let your collection get out of hand (see Commandment No.8) and don't buy too often, or the glamour of new makeup gets trite. Check out drugstore products if you really get a makeup craving. And if you have a sanctified allegiance to a high end brand, indulge your habit, but be aware, and be sure to enjoy it.


If you can force your heart and nerve and sinew
To serve your turn long after they are gone,
And so hold on when there is nothing in you
Except the Will which says to them: 'Hold on!'

Oh wait I am getting carried away now.

... What would your 10 Commandments be???

Men and Makeup

You'd be hard-pressed to find a bigger fan of men in makeup than me. Maybe I shouldn't admit it, but there it stands.

However on a recent trip to check out Illamasqua, I was served by an overtly bitchy guy in drag. Did he feel he had to be that way to complement his ostentatious fake lashes and glitter? I could tell he was viewing me as a corporate slave, by dint of my rather austere coat and boots and generally sober garb (it was a weekday). I felt uncomfortable and ended up going on a Trish McEvoy haul instead.

Yet in fact one of my favourite books is "DRAG: A History of Female Impersonation in the Performing Arts" by Roger Baker. The book traces the progress through centuries of female impersonation, which began with pageants as far back as 1100. The catalyst proves to have been the Church dramatisations: ‘It all began as an attempt to make the liturgy of the church more intelligible to the largely illiterate congregations’, which evolved to incorporate comic routines.

The last day of Christmas (Twelfth Night) became associated with misrule and reversal of order. As the various dramas were completely separated from the Church and responsibility for them was taken over by the local Guilds, each Guild chose episodes most appropriate to their skill (mystery plays) and Bible stories were given sub-plots. Noah’s wife in particular, although not imbued with any characteristics in the original story, became a nagging shrew and still stands as a blueprint for countless nagging wives jokes.

Aside from the prevalence of what Baker calls the "Male Actress" in all corners of the world - from the ancient theatres in Japan and China, to the post-war boom of drag acts in Britain, to the trend in American cinema from Tootsie to Mrs Doubtfire, spreading then to Baz Luhrmann's fantastic Priscilla Queen of the Desert and the countless cross dressing comedians, from Benny Hill to Dame Edna, culminating in the revival now of stage musicals: Priscilla Queen of the Desert (with Jason Donovan reclaiming the chance he had all those years ago, and possibly going some way to softening the fact that he killed 'The Face' magazine off....), and Hairspray; The Rocky Horror Show. What's clear is that never has drag lost its audience. The recent passing of Danny La Rue has brought that point back too.

But if drag is at one extreme, does it filter down to the everyman or will it always be at the periphery, and always under the guise of entertainment?

We must remember Superdrug (UK drugstore) picking up Taxi Man, a brand which excels at punning: "Disguys", the concealer; followed by the now familiar "manscara" and "guyliner". The promo pic was accordingly mainstream, featuring a very heterosexual looking cabbie:



However despite the brand holding up Russell Brand and Robbie Williams as examples of their target audience mainstream appeal, the very use of these jocular terms admits their taboo nature.

Even at the other side of the spectrum, where it seems there are genuine attempts to invite male grooming and vanity to come to the fore (in much the same way as a female consumer may be enticed), there lies a coyness.

Notwithstanding the fact that the term 'makeup' is avoided, replaced by a more vague descriptions such as 'complexion enhancer'; the mascara a 'brow and lash groomer', and packaged in masculine affirming black thick robust compacts, Jean Pual Gaultier, who led the pack, had the press release of his Monsieur range as:

'A Monsieur lies hidden in every man. Monsieur is sophisticated and elegant without fuss or complication, but of course not without humour'.


This vital reference to "humour" may be there to relax its male purchaser that it's all just an experiment; a laugh. At the least it acknowledges that these products are usually only to be found at the margins of society and generally associated with rebellious teens, eccentric gay men and cross-dressers.

YSL's famous hero product, Touche Eclat, also seemed to transfer well. It already had a pen design rather than anything too flouncy, so renamed 'L'Homme Touche Eclat" and deprived it of its shiny gold tube (in favour of pewter) YSL used the biggest pleb-magnet - a Big Brother contestant!

Stuart Pilkington as the face of the eyeliner and concealer look:



Johnny Depp in his role as a pirate has done much to popularise the eyeliner look, and of course Pete Wentz fancies himself as another male makeup icon.

For a rock look, it seems in keeping with the role. However, this still means male makeup is marginalised.

Clarins male bronzing ranges, and Clinique's, and the countless male skincare products now launching within mainstream drugstore ranges, all attempt to edge closer to a point where men reach for their bronzer, concealer, mascara and lip tint without a moment's hesitation. Companies, after all, could double their market if they could convince men that they, too, were unsightly without make-up.

Before dismissing any likelihood of this,it is worth remembering that up until the 1850s men did openly wear makeup.

Male makeup has a long history, starting with the Egyptians, whose men applied thick eyeliner to ward off the "evil eye." Roman men used chalk-based foundation to brighten their complexions, and, in the 18th century, Louis XV and his court made it highly fashionable for men to wear (often toxic lead-based) makeup and rouge. During the French Restoration in the 18th century, red rouge and lipstick were used to give the impression of a healthy, fun-loving spirit.

Eventually, their preference for excessive makeup led to the jibe that the "painted" French had something to hide. Thus the trend ebbed as it began to be associated with being a rather too dandy sort. Perhaps by adding L'Homme or Monsieur, these cosmetic houses aim to hark back to a French bygone era?!

It is hard to think that eyeliner on a man will be acceptable outside of the confines of a deliberate artistic flourish, but indeed our times seem to have heralded the return of the dandy:

"Recent reports have revealed that the global sales of men's grooming products reached $19.5bn in 2008. The value of the market in 2009 is estimated to be $21.7bn, an increase of 11.3% as compared to last year.... The desire to look and feel healthy has been driven by male role models such as film actors and sportsmen, and communicated via the huge growth in premium magazines dedicated to men.... As the boundaries between genders continue to be broken down, global companies are expected to find increasingly innovative ways to profit from the evolving characteristics of the male consumer." 1

Is male makeup the last bastion of the gender divide? Will the acceptance of male skincare extend to male cosmetics?? What are your predictions and thoughts???

[[closed]] Contest!!!! Describe your signature look.

I admit to being oddly mesmerised by people's signature look: everyone has one, even if it is a different look every day - it still is bound to have the use of your regular technique.... Or if you deny this, prove it!! I want to know your tips and tricks and the way you feel your features most benefit from your makeup. In return, you'll get a selection of makeup, haircare, nail care, trinkets and Topshop accessories (well it is my favourite shop after all, and I need to distinguish myself from all the other billion contests going on right now, n'est-ce-pas?) - as picked by me and as sponsored by haircare expert Erryn. Erryn's blog is so packed out with tips that it's literally changed the way I act on my haircare and hopefully has already shielded me from a multitude of hair disasters.

Please browse her store, Erryn's Health and Beauty to decide what you might spend $50 on.... because yes, that's something you'd do if you win first prize! But that's not all, you'll also get the Guerlain Kiss Kiss Laque lipgloss I've been loving, GOSH Darling lipstick, China Glaze nail varnish... the list goes on below - scroll down for photos too!


Anyway hopefully this video will explain all:


Here is the list:

FIRST PRIZE

$50 Voucher to "Erryn's Health and Beauty"

Guerlain Kiss Kiss Laque lipgloss (shade 721 Purple Star)

GOSH Darling lipstick

Mavala "Deep Blue" nail varnish

China Glaze "Shower Together" nail varnish

Essie "It's in the bag" nail varnish

Creative Nail Design "Solar Oil" nail treatment

Creative Nail Design block nail file

Tigi "Rockaholic Shine Blaster" hair treatment

Trucco "Jewel" in "warm iridescent rose"

Jewelled heart double sided compact mirror

Professional tweezers

Trucco retractable lip brush

And... Topshop

- Flower brooch
-Leather/bead flower bracelet
-Dangly sparkly earrings




SECOND PRIZE

Paul Mitchell Colour Protect trio: includes Shampoo, Conditioner and Reconstructive Treatment

Joico reconstructive hair treatment

Barry M nail varnishes (in "Bright Pink" and "Fuschia")

Trucco lip pencil in "Soft Plum"

2 Handbag sized hand moisturisers, one Jasmine by O.P.I and one Blackcurrant and Fig by Creative Nail Design

Topshop flower brooch

Topshop polka dot bow earrings




THIRD PRIZE

2 new pairs of false eyelashes (each has little glue tube inside)

Lip polish by Graham Webb


An assortment of samples from Erryn' store, includes specialist shampoo, cream, Trucco lip gloss etc

Topshop zip star wallet keyring

Topshop hairband with silk flower detail

** CONTEST WILL RUN UNTIL 7th JUNE!!!! **

GOOD LUCK AND PLEASE ENTER!

Ageing makeup habits

Time may be a great healer, but it's also a lousy beautician.

So, how best to alleviate, or at least vaguely soften, the ravages of time? Mature makeup fiends may find themselves so hypersensitive of the mutton-dressed-as-lamb effect that they avoid bright colours and stick to the understated neutral shades. It seems very sad that the garish overuse of blue eyelids and bright red lips has potentially led to the fear of colour once one hits that certain age. I myself recently succumbed to this: I decided wearing teals and purple made me look almost infantile next to my sober counterparts. But, seeing these pictures reaffirms why colour can be actually very forgiving and even enhancing to an older face – lending it not only a fresher look, but also a hint of vital spirit within.

The fact that nowadays hitting 30 does not demand the end to an actress/ model career is rather a new phenomenon. The dominance of these women in the media has led to a reassessment of what it means to be an older woman, and loosened the strictures of how a woman must change and adapt in sympathy to her advancing years. Toyboys are de riguer, and conceptions have been defiantly overturned. Yet the price seems to be that aging has become shrouded in mystery and deception – cosmetic surgery seems the only passport to entering this hallowed state of glamorous aging. Botox is known as uninvasive surgery, and therefore loses much of its stigma. The relatively low cost and speed of the treatment also makes it less daunting for the everyman looking in. The proliferation of adverts on the tube, TV, magazines and newspapers, depicting a beaming healthy and natural looking woman, in a scientific looking ‘clinic’ (never ‘hospital’) adds to the ease of understatement of getting cosmetic surgery. Seeing the transformation of the celebrities as they age speaks volumes. Facelifts, face fillers and botox do not adequately mimic the freshness of youth, but rather a synthetic and hard parody of it. A line free forehead can still look old (hello Nicole Kidman.)

We are rather bereft of reliable examples of dignified aging and a true evolutionary beauty. Any flaws would intantly be seized upon and ridiculed in today's beauty-centric climate.

Here's Audrey Hepburn, and Brigitte Bardot. There's something very admirable about the way they have relinquished their youthful beauty and allowed ageing to pave its natural course.

Makeup applied correctly can to a degree help, and does so in a less laboured way than surgery. Bold lips and rouged cheeks if done without overdose, can revive a sallow face. Colour in the outer edge of the eyes can distract from wrinkles. Although these steps will not remould a face, it might be a more effective way to age and resemble that youthful lustre associated with the freedom to embrace bold colour and makeup techniques: why the preserve of youth?

Young model of the moment, Agyness Deyn

No-one wants to become invisible, but worse than that is being noticed for trying to not be invisible. So is surgery the only remedy? Perhaps it is. I know I am tempted by botox on many a day. What steps do YOU consider essential in the fight against aging? Is it essential to change your colour palette and technique? Is safe and neutral just the best way to be once you're out of your youth?? Many seem to consider this is the case.... I am still valiantly clinging on to Blues, purples, reds... Are YOU?

How often do you switch up your look? Seasonal/ Trend-driven makeup choices.

Following on from my previous post regarding brand trends and packaging or promotional related influences, I now would like to turn to the timeless question: Why do we feel compelled to switch up our look to suit the seasons? As British weather confidently (finally) turns to Spring, I feel it is now inapropriate - impudent, even - to reach for my mulberry lipstick and dark eyeshadow. I wonder when this habit began, to associate Sping/ Summer with vibrant luminous colours, and Winter with warm dark tones. It seems peculiar to have to echo the elements within our makeup routine, but I am certain we must all do it, at least to some extent....

I suppose there is something almost pagan about the way we see the changing of the seasons as an invitation to change our look.

Key summer trend: Coral lips

The beauty press seems unanimously to agree that coral lips are the best way to capture the sunshine spirit du jour. Coral is synonymous with old fashioned, yet in truth it can prove a very fuss-free way of updating your standard makeup and making it summery. But choosing the wrong coral shade can be extremely hazardous, as the orange can easily bring out yellowness in teeth or sallowness in yellow toned pale skins. Dark skins invariably benefit from coral though. Pale skins are best off with pinker corals, wheras darker skins can pull off the more red/orange coral spectrum.

Pick your coral: from pink based coral to vivid pure coral, from dense colours to glazes, coral is the quickest route to summer makeup. Choose your colour wisely: like JLo, picking coral can knock years off you!

- To get just a hint of coral, like Angelina Jolie, I highly recommend my new discovery: E.L.F Plumping lip glaze in Fire Coral

, it's fab - especially if you are a fan of Benefit Buxom lips (i.e if you love that menthol zing). For £1.50 ($1 in U.S) it's a brilliant discovery.

But what of those classic lips, nude and red? For some reason these choices are unrestricted by season, trend or age. Finding the perfect red is notoriously difficult, but once found, it makes skin bloom and teeth brighten. Nude lips and natural makeup can easily be updated for summer with gold glints or extra highlighter.

Red lips, although limited to formal occasions or evening wear, are at least timeless:

N.B: Warm red lipstick tend to be more youthful than cool blue-based red, and do not make lips look smaller in the way a classic red lip risks doing.

Bright pink lips are a modern spin on the red lipstick: retaining the punch of colour, but in a more youthful way. Pinks are in many ways easier to wear, and suit a multitude of skintones:

Burgundy lips though, I feel, are in many ways not restricted to seasonal whims. I believe burgundy is a sophisticated red than can be pinked up or kept deep. It has the ability to make skin look extra clear, and teeth look extra white. It has an originality that is lacking in a red lip or nude lip, and it looks great on various skintones. It can adapt to an everyday look with surprising ease. My favourite has to be Guerlain Kiss Kiss Maxi Laque in Purple Star, described perfectly as "seductive purple red". It stays on lips for ever, and dries down to a stain as the hours wear on.

Keep your deep burgundy bright, or it can look gothic, like Christina Ricci's, recalling her Addams family roots. And as with any deep lip shade, resist the urge to go all-out like Paris Hilton. Check the pic to see why.

... What do you do to update your look for Spring/Summer and why? What colours do you think are undervalued?? And what colours do you feel are trend-only and not for normal wear?