Barbie at The Design Museum: REVIEW!

Some of you might remember my scathing post about the recent Barbie film. I did however, commend them on the props and set, and I'm not sure I mentioned it but the end credits had a montage of the history of Barbie dolls through the ages, arguably the best part of the film. Well, like the film, this exhibition begins at the beginning: Barbie No.1. Iconic, resplendent, exceedingly pale, with a platinum high ponytail, graphic eye shadow, red lips, red nails, monochrome swimsuit, kitten heels. Calm, poised, sunglasses in hand. Mesmerising and transcending fashion and time. Luckily, this exhibition does not then disintegrate into a puddle of self congratulation, even as it does show the spirit of Barbie compromised for the good of society.

After all, as the exhibition coyly alludes, Barbie was inspired by a novelty German sex doll, Lilli  - a sexually provocative curvy doll which men could dress in different outfits, festoon their trucks with, joke gift, or generally see as a tool for their misogyny and superiority. How empowering then, that this was usurped by Ruth Handler, the creator of Barbie. Young girls now had the option to play with aspirational (albeit impossibly beautiful and successful) adult dolls rather than doll versions of little girls and babies. I couldn't help but wonder if by allowing Barbie to be darker, curvier, shorter, disabled, humbled, and in summary, relatable, the very essence of Barbie was eroded. As once upon a time, being a model meant one gasped in awe, and today one most likely replies, yeah I'm also a model. These unattainable achievements were once the stuff of child's play, but today we all have apps and editing tools and skills which can be learned for free online or watched and absorbed via tutorials, and every condition or mood has its own social media ambassador. One needn't play alone and ascribe role playing when one can hop online and have a reddit thread with real people... And yet, Barbie still holds her allure. Last year the film was able to ignite 'Barbiecore'; there is still a thirst for the unapologetic Dream House, pink outfits, big hair - joy in the feminine power and its ability to threaten and reduce men. 

The various iterations of Ken pale into insignificance next to the hundred Barbie dolls. Always officially no more than Barbie's boyfriend, the unspoken and seemingly denied gay identity of some Kens - particularly "earring magic Ken" who some rather persuasively insist wears a cock ring on his necklace, are no more than a side show to Barbie's world.

A world where home ownership began before it began for real life women (women in US, up until almost the mid 1970s, were still denied mortgage applications unless they were married; Barbie homes however were introduced in the 1960s.) 

BARBIE FASHION DINING ROOM

SET, 1984

BARBIE MAGICAL MANSION, 1990

BARBIE FAMILY HOUSE,1998

BARBIE DREAM FURNITURE COLLECTION, 1978

The friends, who came to include by the 1960s "Coloured Francie" and more ‘on trend’ afro haired friends into the 70s, resulted finally in the first ever Black Barbie in 1980. Perhaps some latent 'othering' with the tagline on the box, "She's black! She's beautiful! She's dynamite!" But no use to nitpick when the general direction was clearly that of progress. Culminating in an animated Barbie anti racism video in 2020 following the George Floyd murder.

The interesting thing about the Design museum, and I did have a quick look around upstairs too, is the emphasis on branding, marketing and identity. In spite of the capitulations to a changing world and a changing audience, Mattel has succeeded in keeping hold of an unmistakable Barbie heartbeat. Perhaps it's the endearingly vacant gaze of a Barbie. Never haughty, yet always confident and knowing. A certain tilt of the head, or the long neck and splayed out arms.

 

The logo has come full circle, returning to its original 1959 script.

TWIST 'N TURN BARBIE DOLL, 1967

 

BEAD BLAST BARBIE DOLL, 1997

WALK LIVELY BARBIE DOLL, 1972

FASHION QUEEN

BARBIE DOLL, 1963

BARBIE DOLL, WEARING

'REGISTERED NURSE,

1961

GUINEVERE, 1964 

CINDERELLA', 1964

My favourite. The 1964 “Little Theatre” edition came with a script book, with doll-sized theatrical costumes (available separately, naturally.)

Barbie is on at The Design Museum London until 23rd February 2025

Recommended: 9/10

Barbie the movie - REVIEW! (spoilers)

*Possible spoilers* Although it's hard to say that for a formulaic and predictable plot device which relies on the tried and true The Lion the Witch and the Wardrobe or The Wizard of Oz type affair - i.e. a portal fantasy with a quest like narrative - in this instance if one is being generous one could suggest this is a reversal: transposing oneself from a fantasy into a reality... so perhaps echoes of Ariel from The Little Mermaid especially at the ending, would be more apt. 

But whereas Ariel has immense complexity of character, Barbie is a two dimensional sweet bimbo and that's what's ultimately so disappointing. I'd read about how outraged right wing stiffs in America had lambasted the film and how (male) critics had complained that “the patriarchy” was used repeatedly and unironically. This only encouraged me to see it and see how Barbie, a feminist icon, for yes that is what I see her as, would undo the most misogynist notion of all: that her beautiful blonde, hair coiffed heavy makeup tight clothed and high heeled persona, doesn't in any way indicate that this woman is not also a highly intelligent and thinking individual and not simply an object for the delectation of men.

Instead, we see a film purporting to dismantle these notions yet in effect entrenching them further. This I find more harmful than an overtly derogatory film. Especially when aimed at a young mind. For instance, Barbie is horrified at getting cellulite and flat feet. Apparently a joke - but is it actually? I mean, aside from one token overweight Barbie, who happens to be the most authoritative and bossy, and no overweight men and just one token dweeb who is the only unattractive male in a sea of attractive Kens, are they not hoisted by their own petard? The fact that at the end she has to forsake pink and heels and instead adopt a brown earthy get up replete with Arizona Birkenstocks was to me the final capitulation to the patriarchy and its strict dichotomy. Clever and to be taken seriously = no pink and no heels! Humble yourself and don’t play on overt symbols of femininity if you want us to respect you and not treat you like meat. That was the message I got and I also didn’t like (and as a teen I suspect I’d have hated it even more…) the way that at the beginning we are submerged into this fun and fluff - for make no mistake, the choreography, the set, the costumes and the makeup are all A+, but then suddenly we are being given a hectoring sermon. It’s not even that I disagreed with any of it as I didn’t, but it was clear that the film was contradicting itself. That old adage: show don’t tell. And what it was showing wasn't aligning at all. In fact was I missing something or was the final 'joke' about Barbie's first act of emancipation going to her gynecologist, a reference to her now becoming a real life sexual being and casting her as a fully functional sex symbol now, not merely a doll or a fantasy. Certainly viewed via a male gaze this is what would be understood by this crescendo.

 

There were so many points which could have been made. I liked hearing about the history of Barbie and the political reflection one can see through the decades. Indeed arguably the most interesting part of the film was the end credits when a roll call of past Barbies was presented. There was not enough about the sadness of Ken; yes this undermines the doctrine but young male suicide is a leading cause of death and it's only recently that attempts to get men to show feelings and talk about it have been made. The unrequited love angle was also a chance to make Barbie asexual or lesbian. Yes it was hinted at, but if you're going to be criticised as “woke”which the director knew was inevitable, why not be bold about it?

It was an interesting idea that finding the little girl who was playing with her, in fact led to a grown up mother. But it also highlighted how flawed the premise was. Unless they were implying only an adult level of sadness can penetrate into the er, membrane. As I can personally attest that as a little girl (one of my formative memories dare I admit) I once went to my room and tumbled out all my accumulated pound coins from endless weeks of saving up, and also tore off all the heads of my beloved Barbies. This demonstration for me represented the truest rendition of hopelessness and grief. I'm fairly sure that my experience was echoed many times through various miserable little girls from the 50s and to the present day, so I'm not sure why it was only now heard by Barbie. But flimsy pretext to one side, it was a surprise that this seemed to suggest a little girl could be an adult. More on the theme of how an adult might get comfort from a childhood toy may have opened up themes which weren't covered. 

The myth of sisterhood and how women are often the first enemy of feminism was touched upon but not expanded and the film again said one thing but presented another. After all, during Nazi times when women were given awards for having lots of babies and were encouraged to throw out all notions of feminism and revert to being a housewife and mother, female support for Hitler was sky high. And when looking at patriarchal religion and oppression of women, in particular how they are to dress and behave, you will often find no more enthusiastic proponent than the woman herself. Many women even aside from religious brainwashing, allow themselves to think of men controlling them as simply being seen as being 'prized' rather than controlled. The idea that Barbieland was just as divisive as the real world was not elucidated. The notion that pretending that competition and gender and all sorts of other perceived advantages don't exist wasn't debated. Instead we have an insipid conclusion.

Barbie is likeable, but she and all the other Barbies are very simple and change their minds at the merest suggestion. The aforementioned lecture which changes their mind, one can't help feeling all it would take is one more lecture, this time from a Ken, and they'd agree with that too. The Kens weren't even given this much, they were simply hammy jokes and the unrequited love element which could have humanised them instead was just sketched in and not taken seriously as a theme. 

The biggest problem is that they didn't take the chance for any commentary on social media and fake filters and how that may have originated or alternatively have been avoided if playing with Barbies was still the main pastime of youngsters - who let's face it, are far more likely to be looking at an interactive screen than playing endlessly with a plastic doll. But ultimately this has to be a Mattel advert, and maybe they didn't want to go down that route! 

I will not forgive them for making Barbie apologise for being a fashion icon. Chanel and Birkenstock are strange bedfellows yet these are the brands we saw. Ultimately one was the past and one the future. I would have preferred if Barbie had at least combined the two and become a maverick hybrid thereof. Instead she had to pick one. And in an echo of the 'weird Barbie' who forces her to pick the Birkenstock, here too, there isn't a real choice, or indeed a real point. 

Maybe we'll be seeing an 'ordinary Barbie' as promised, a brown jacketed Birkenstock sandal one. But if you don't look like Margot Robbie, will the outfit still work... because it would if it were a pink dress. A pink dress lets everyone shine. We all wore pink at the cinema. A frumpy outfit, well it's a lot harder to look good in that if you're not 'ordinary  Barbie'. In fact it's probably the easiest way to get someone to feel inadequate. That is, the opposite of empowered.

Overall a disappointment 6/10  

Face (of) the day

Today’s post relates to the anxiety of lockdown, the amplified feeling of helplessness and isolation, which, in many ways, manifested itself as we were confronted with the racist US police brutality. I recently watched the BBC 1987 documentary Fouteen Days in May  (link to watch online if you don’t have BBC iplayer) and even though this took place over 30 years ago, the statistics about black men being convicted vs white men, and the way the colour of their skin seems to dictate their fate, haven’t changed much if at all: it’s truly harrowing. It is tragic to realise that prisons and death row inmates are still dominated by a black demographic. The inmate was being filmed by the BBC and thought that the fact he was being filmed might save him. “Do you know something I don’t?” he helplessly asked his young British lawyer. Alas, a camera might record but it can’t stop the reality. I personally find the death penalty shockingly barbaric: even when guilty, many of these criminals endured horrific upbringings and social inequality. (Read Guilty by Reason of Insanity: A Psychiatrist Explores the Minds of Killers by Dorothy Otnow Lewis). In a country where criminals are treated like dangerous animals to be put down it is hardly surprising that brute force is used when apprehending them. Indeed it seems clear that this tactic was well rehearsed, it just had never resulted in a death before. Perhaps even the fact that there was an audience, made the police even more vindictive. One can only speculate and aim for this video evidence to act as a catalyst for real change.

All this takes place in the shadow of an invisible and impartial enemy... although even the virus seems to disproportionally kill BAME (black Asian minority ethnic) groups. The claustrophobia and anger at helpless governments who simply cannot protect its citizens from a disease which is unpredictable and unpreventable by any means other than forcing us all to cower from within secluded homes. The anger from businesses who are forced to therefore shut down and the trickle down effect which means people’s futures are in jeopardy. Especially young people who are cruelly denied times in their life which they’ll never recover: the liberty of university life and the opportunities waiting for them once they graduate, or school children denied the simple joy of growing up in a rowdy schoolroom joshing about with their friends... the list goes on. I can’t help but wonder if the protests are to some, a chance to recreate a social communal gathering, especially if music acts are to take place and celebrities are to attend and give talks. Now doesn’t seem the time to encourage mass gatherings and the inevitable looting is a side effect of releasing all the pent up frustration and rushing into angry demonstration. I noticed a Facebook advert for a London protest advises attendees to self isolate for two weeks afterwards but surely many of them live in shared homes and in practise this invites inevitable exposure for people who would otherwise be sheltered from risk. Regardless of the merits or I should say necessity of visible protest at this abhorrent crime, I think encouraging mass gatherings whilst a virus is still a real threat, is wrong. I also think that the trouble with these “trending” social issues is that it gets a lot of traction and then is all but forgotten and the lessons are not learned. The killing of George Floyd is but the latest in a terrible list of black victims.

And onto beauty; beauty brands are expected to proclaim how upset they are and how much money they will be donating. I think this is misguided in the sense that it commercialises tragedy and pivots a serious issue into a marketing ground. Nonetheless the money is vital and of value but the abuse met out to celebrities and brands who don’t publicly speak out, seems also a kind of prejudicial witch-hunt. People should be able to not have the pressure of their skin colour used against them. But I know that when you are from an ethnic minority you are treated as an Other and whether you want to or not, you do stand as a cipher. So the pressure to be an example is very real and cannot be thrown off. Blackout Tuesday was a noble aim to mute social media and educate oneself on the history of black suffering and prejudice. Prejudice goes both ways and often there is racism within racism such as rap lyrics praising pale black women as ‘redbone’ etc and black celebrities using filters to lighten their skin to this more ‘desirable’ caramel tone or change their features and hair and so on. The racism is not simply coming from white supremacists. Within beauty however there is the added spectre of how foundation shades and even lipsticks are named. What, indeed, does “nude” mean?

 I think broadly shades are named in a neutral way, shades like Estée Lauder shell, Bone, nutmeg, etc all seem fine to me... but there will be a shift I suspect, a hyper awareness of what shade names invoke. I think beauty naming in general needs reassessing because aside from the eye rolling crude sexual double entendres, the drug and addiction type names are also unnecessary and degrading. That doesn’t mean names have to be numbers or boring but it does mean we don’t need to perpetuate makeup as a weakness or a call for sexual attention and (male) approval.

Blackout Tuesday had the ironic effect of being a time to in fact engage more with social media, the black square taking on something of a smug badge of honour, and again, those brands or individuals not using it being vilified for not joining in and thus the logic went aligning themselves with right wing racists. The way of press-ganging individuals to join the cult of vitriol doesn’t seem the way to progress. It seems that it would bring about a short term burst and then the fashion of political protest fizzles down and it’s  onto the next trendy cause to capture the zeitgeist. Racism or more broadly I would say prejudice is a relic from the past which one assumes is eradicated but it isn’t. The need to think of oneself as having an Other to persecute, is irresistible, and shows no signs of abating.

Martin Luther King (yes, who else can one quote at these times?) famously said, “In the end, we will remember not the words of our enemies, but the silence of our friends.” We like to think of our favourite brands whom we shop from, as friends. We want to see them publicly standing against racism and putting ‘our’ money into this cause. We get angry when they don’t. But anger is at the root of where things go wrong. Violence even in the name of virtue can’t be  right... Then again, sometimes the only way to be noticed is to be violent. Kind calm demonstrations probably wouldn’t make the headlines; burning down buildings, does. This is not something to be vindicated by but it is the truth. In a time when there are so many brands - unlike 30 years ago one might say - we can and do boycott which makeup brands get our money. But if a brand makes a truly wonderful inimitable product, how many would still boycott them. Much like a beautiful piece of art painted by a known abusive husband (too many famous artists to list here as examples) would we not still enjoy the art as separate from its creators? Is hounding them until they proclaim their agreement not rather hollow? But as the public’s outrage over Dominic Cummings shows, no it isn’t hollow: we want these individuals in power to be brought down and humbled - even if they do so under duress. Maybe, especially so. We feel cheated if they can happily go about as they were, unpunished.

The point of all this is to say that, as hackneyed as it is, Ghandi’s quote to be the change you wish to see in the world, is the only truth. Making it a norm to be kind and give people the chance to show who they are without our prejudice forcing an identity onto them, it’s hard but we must try. And possibly more importantly, to love ourselves without self hatred and resentment, as this often leads us seek an Other to project all our own insecurities into as a therapeutic release/ scapegoat.

Sometimes the most tiny self care routines are enough to make us feel better and more able to face the world and feel valued. That is why even in lockdown I think it’s crucial to still eat healthily (well of course a few extra treats are understandable...) exercise and still do your hair and makeup and nails, if it brings you joy. My face of the day isn’t what it is when I know I’ll be seen and judged, but it is still a face of the day even if all I do is a trip to the shop or a socially distanced catch up. It’s:

Thebalm balm shelter - comes in extra light and goes to extra dark. My shade is “lighter than light” (I see no issues with the shade names; “light” and “dark” should have no connotations in either direction.) Anyway, this gives skin an even canvas and it has SPF 18. All sunscreens break me out but thankfully, not this. It’s therefore my daily face sunscreen too. Eyebrows - brows are so important. I like to use the Morphe  e29 angled brush and spoolie with some brown eyeshadow (usually MAC or Sleek) and I like to sometimes use eyeshadow but generally if I skip eye makeup I will then always use a lip and cheek colour. I like Lipstick Queen lipstick which I then dab into cheeks.

Lockdown pick-me-up treats

If, like me, you've been enjoying a little online hauling... Here are some treats which truly did pick me up and which I recommend thoroughly. They're not all beauty related, either!

Read on:

1. I bought myself a milk frother right at the start of the lockdown. My lavazza coffee machine does do froth, but it was never like a coffee shop cappuccino and from researching I discovered many coffee connoisseurs rely on a separate milk frother. Anyway this one was fairly cheap, but it does a fantastic job. It can do ice coffees too! Very much a pick me up. And coffee is my only vice. 😇

2. Victoria's Secret hauling. It's not the finest quality, and I hate screaming logos, but I really like the cut of most of my Victoria's Secret and PINK clothes. I've been living in PINK cropped tees and I like their joggers too. It is possible to find discreet logo items. (Usually they have low ratings because "you can barely see the logo!") The PINK Ultimate leggings are my workout go-to. Onto the teddy - No, sadly I don't plan to wear it as a true Playboy homage nude or with bra showing; I will wear it with a vest (cami) underneath or perhaps a jacket on top. I like that it's simultaneously demure and provocative. I like to confuse people. I did try it on and it made me think wistfully and hopefully of nights out in the future.

3. Lipstick Queen lipstick in Frog Prince. I got this from Look Fantastic. I am a huge fan of Lipstick Queen especially the balm-type 'transforming' shades. My favourite is Morning Sunshine, but the irresistibly fitting paradox of a green lipstick for these strange times, meant I had to get the classic Frog Prince. I remember an old Barry M green lipstick which changed into a garish scary pink on most people. It was almost as frightful a shade as if it had applied green, to be frank. This Frog Prince however is a forest green which changes into a mauveish pink. It's nothing unique or exciting once on, and I would probably never have looked at it if it was that mauvish pink in the bullet. It's definitely universally flattering and it leaves lips with a nice stain. (My favourite thing about these lipsticks.) I enjoy just taking it out and seeing its green body against the pink shell. The name and outer packaging are very clever, I really enjoy Poppy King's wit and vision.

4. Guerlain Terracotta Nude Glow Powder, in Universal. Guerlain's original Terracotta bronzers have something moisturising in them which literally make my skin look better and act as skincare when my skin is dry and flaky. I always wished they'd make a skin tone version with the same effect. And now, they have! Boo it's limited edition, but it's here if you can find it (I got mine from Harrods but it's out of stock there, and everywhere, except Guerlain directly now.) I fought so hard and managed to resist the new Brazilian Fizz Meteorites. Maybe I'll cave at some point (it's still available, again only at Guerlain directly) but I have barely used the Perles de Satin ones so paying £46 for the tin, wellll I won't lie, it's still tempting, but I had to be "sensible". This Nude terracotta though, was non-negotiable. It's £38 which is a bit much. But Harrods have some MAC on sale so I bought a few MAC items to feel overall I'd got a good deal. (Does anyone else buy more to justify spending too much? 🤔) Anyhow it's worth every penny now that I've tried the powder, I've only tried it once but it's just as I hoped: Just as it looks in the promo images. And it would work indeed on any skin tone as it's an effect not a colour. If I manage to go away this summer I will definitely buy a backup at Duty Free. The meteorites pearls make skin look better, but this Terracotta Nude Glow powder actually conditions the skin - the pearls are just an illusion. So it's best described as a less shimmery version of wet look highlighters, in the direction of the effect of MAC extra dimension skin finishes etc. It makes skin look young and dewy on contact.

5. Pat McGrath Subversive palette - this hasn't arrived yet, but it's 40% off from her site. Free shipping to UK too, so it was impossible to resist. I am planning to depot them though as the case looks rather 'geometry set' to me and I don't like all that plastic.

6. Skincare - as I said last post, this is a perfect time to get a skin care regime going. I'm doing well using retinoid gel and various masks and moisturisers as detailed already. I'm happy with everything except that I am still on the hunt for a sunscreen which doesn't make my skin break out. It's a very frustrating and so far fruitless endeavour. If anyone has any recommendations please let me know? So far I have tried Paula's choice, Shiseido BB in the bottle and in the compact, La Roche Posay, and Cerave... All bad for me.


Hoping everyone is doing well. Shops will be open IRL soon but it's quite addictive to just have everything ordered and delivered. It will feel strange browsing again I suppose. The age of testers will be over as we know it, I wonder if they'll have to start giving out samples which previously SAs were so militantly against doing. From seeing how it is in US, every beauty item will be individually cellophane wrapped. Clothes once tried on will then have to undergo quarantine. It's hard to tell how it'll all look. If one must queue to get in due to shopper limitations, I dare say that alone will ensure online shopping still prevails. I guess shops will have to entice customers with 'in-store only' promotions.

10 Current beauty Faves... in the time of covid-19

I hope everyone is doing well and staying safe in these earth-shattering times. Panic and fear, suspicion and condemnation are the order of the day. I've been horrified at the selfishness: can anyone find me a punnet of eggs?! As the weather warms up and it looks outwardly like the onset of an uplifting Spring, the reality is that we don't know what dark dread awaits... Those in power seem to know little more than we do, with mixed messages and a lack of conviction. This is the time when we were looking forward to our holidays (all cancelled now) but we here find ourselves humbled by nature. This disease has united most of the world with its horror. Our social media is for many now the only comfort, and with that, there is some beauty. For like all traumas, good can be gleaned too. This is not an 'Other's" problem, it is us all. And although a vapid interest in beauty and display might have been stymied, it has yet some relevance. For many with hectic lives, this forced enclosure and pause may even bring much-needed rest; for the planet and its pollution too. Beauty and self-care as ever has a therapeutic and life affirming power. So that being said the rest of this post will be frivolous ;)

I have been trying to keep up with my exercise regime - not the same as a gym but not impossible (find me on instagram @ooglemakeup)and I have let my hair rest from its punishing blow dries. My hope is I will emerge from this with long, healthy hair... a distant memory. Beauty-wise this is a perfect time to use products and feel better. These are my favourites and I may return to Youtube to showcase them properly.



1. Feelunique recently brought out (now sold-out) beauty bag, and I bought it on a whim. Within the bag was a miraculous tincture, Antipodes Blessing

Usually my skin hates oil. But this indeed somehow is a 'light' oil. It smells divine, it's white jasmine, but to me it seems like bubblegum but in a natural way (it reminds me of candy floss grapes if anyone has tried that variety). And somehow, perhaps the marshmallow extract, it makes my skin very pale and even-toned, almost on impact. I also love mixing it in with my Estee Lauder doublewear. Doublewear has been my faithful unwavering stand-by for a very long time; I wouldn't hear a bad word against it. And yet now my skin is changing (gasp of horror)and I find myself finally understanding the "paint" criticism. Nonetheless, a drop of this and it's perfect once again.




 2. Another New Zealand skincare brand! They must know a few tricks. This time the brand revolves around bees. Bees Brilliance Instant Hydra Firming Shot. Again, the smell is delicious. This smell is a very ancient atavistic scent. It recalls an ancient High Temple Priestess to me... it is a sweet milk and honey and perhaps cooking apples. It's a very rich smell but smells natural, not chemical. It's very moisturising but hasn't broken me out as it's not heavy. I like to mix it with my retin A gel at night. I found this again on a whim, at TK Maxx, but it is available at Holland and Barrett and isn't too expensive. I think it may be the Squalene in it that makes it so good, but it also has similar antioxidants to the Blessing serum.

I also bought the Bees Brilliance Beauty Elixir Mist and it is everything I wished MAC's Fix+ was! It doesn't have the horrible (for me) Castor oil in it and instead has only a plethora of antioxidants and a soft light honey scent. It has a great fine mist too.

3. Nourish Nutritious Peptide Serum. A serum made in UK. I tried their moisturiser but it broke me out. This, however, is oil free and helps my dehydrated skin. It reminds me of the Caudelie Vinosource serum, which I love but I go through it way too quickly. This seems to last longer but has the same very light and quenching consistency. It uses apple acid exfoliating so it reminds me of Juice Beauty Apple peel which is another marvellous product.

4. Botanical Lab has quite a few really good products! Their tumeric mask and their hydrating mask are so good. In fact the hydrating mask reminds me of Clinique's moisture quench line. It isn't oil free but it isn't heavy, and it imparts a wonderful glow to my skin. But the true wonder is their Clay & Sulfur Drying Lotion. Spot? What spot? I sometimes apply this and then I go back to look at my face and I wonder, did I imagine that it was a spot! That is how potent this is. I think the best I have ever tried is Origins spot remover, but this is almost or perhaps even equally as good.

5. A dupe a dupe! I had been using Indeed Labs Vitamin C24 but I recently decided to test out Inkey list Vitamin C serum. Both are in a silicone base, which isn't my preference and I do feel it clogs my skin a bit. But the results are undeniable, and it does make for a decent primer too. So I'm now on to this £7.99 one which seems identical. This one has 30% vitamin C rather than 22%. But it has fewer ingredients so time will tell if it lacks the punch I've seen with Indeed labs. I've tried the Inkey List Q10 serum and loved it but the inkey little bottle only lasted a few uses before it was empty. So that one was a false economy. However I'd be keen to investigate the rest of the range. The Ordinary has had a few misses for me; this brand seems more along my path.

6. Paula's Choice Advanced Replenishing Toner. I hoarded a few bottles of this when I heard it was being reformulated. Well, she insisted it would be the same. But we know that new packaging, let alone those ominous words 'new and improved' mean the death-knell for our beloved product. However on close inspection it seems only the further down ingredients have changed. The consistency is the same (milky and enriching, almost like a moisturiser) but there is an unpleasant smell now whereas before it was odourless. I always think this step can be replaced, it seems such a simple and dupeable toner. And yet after years of using it I haven't found anything - and when I do go without it, my skin isn't the same. For now, this still seems the same A+ toner. The famously lauded BHA exfoliant is also well deserving of its praise, but I think Corsx glycolic exfoliant is almost the same, so for me I'm not entirely convinced her exfoliants are all that unique. This though, seems irreplaceable...

7. Makeup at last! The fun stuff. Highlighters - is there anything better? For me the best highlighters are those with glycerine and squalene. The so-called 'gel hybrids'. In fact I'm convinced these are quasi skincare because they can actually seem to moisturise the skin? But maybe I'm getting carried away. But the love for a gleaming glowing complexion is not going away any time soon. My latest acquisition is courtesy of TK Maxx again! £29.99 (still in stock) This was a product I hesitated about, and then it was gone. Estee Lauder Modern Mercury, as brought back by Victoria Beckham. The leathery case is very nice, but it's the product inside which is the best. A rosy tan but very easy to wear sheer so it would work for all skin tones.

I used to love a matte velvety skin, but those days are gone and now my skin is getting drier I use highlighters lightly all over, and then more heavily on the high points. MAC has some brilliant ones but Guerlain and Estee Lauder have my heart. Guerlain were as far as I know, the very first (mainstream at least) brand to present this miraculous formula. I still cherish my Cruel Gardenia. Meteorites balls, although not the same formula, have an uncanny ability to draw a veil over the skin. They last forever, are addictively collectible, and any time I catch sight of my reflection when wearing these, I congratulate myself on how well my skincare regime must be doing. Sadly it washes off, but when it's on it lasts all day and it convincingly mimics a bloom of health. I'm still bitter I missed out on the carousel balls, so when I saw this pinkish version I leapt to it.

For its imprinting, I'm also going to include Burberry's highlighter in 01 even though it's only 5g of product. It makes skin look angelic. It reminds me of the Guerlain christmas Globe balls they brought out, the one with the star shaped balls. If you didn't get it you missed out - but here is a very good (if I'm honest, even better) version:

8. Lipstick Queen. My new favourite lipstick brand, on a par with Guerlain Rouge G in my opinion. The founder is an interesting character and I like how she draws inspiration from various themes. Not all of the lipsticks are equally as good, but I have a few that are delectable. They feel like a lip balm and leave a very nice stain behind which is very youthful; they also seem to make lips look plumper just like Rouge G does. My pick would be Eden because I think the case just elevates it. But I also like Natural Sinner (not truly natural in the expected sense, as it's very pigmented, but it is a gorgeous shade). The surprise hit is Black Lace Rabbit, which has allowed me to wear lipsticks which had been relegated to the dismissed pile. Suddenly vapid shades become vampy shades, too-pale nudes become raspberry mauveish nudes. And it's very moisturising so it even helps to make drying lipsticks wearable.

9. Morphe x James Charles mini eye brush set. I lucked out when I found this in Boots Tottenham Court Road for £15! I'm not subscribed to James Charles and don't know much about him. My expectations were low. I reasoned, at least the brush tubby will be useful. Granted, the quality isn't quite 'premium', but it's not like an 'own brand' brush range, either. It's in fact way better than I expected - and seeing how they were gathered makes me respect James Charles, because I can tell he is a discerning artist. In truth, the nose brush is worth it alone! I'm not sure I'd spend £59, but I hear it's often on offer and can sometimes be found for £30 on the Morphe site, and for that it's a very recommended buy. It's a really fun present. Even for £59 it would be a great gift I just personally don't think I'd spend that on Morphe brushes as I'd choose to go the premium brushes route if I was spending over £30. My favourites are the nose brush, the tapered mini blending brush, the detail liner brush, and the flat concealer brush.

10. Thebalm. I've found a few very good items from this range... I'm not sure how I feel about their designs, some can be a little cringe worthy. But I've been enjoying Schwing liner (I did say...) and sometimes if I want an even finer line, I'll apply it using the Morphe detail liner brush.

I also really love the Give Crease a Chance (cringe again) brush. I only like the flat side, it reminds me of my very first ever brush purchase which was the now extinct Prescriptives flat eyeshadow brush. It's a very firm yet fluffy brush, and until this thebalm one, I'd never found anything to compare. The blender side isn't good, but that makes it less worrisome to stick it crushed into my brush holder rather than the burden of having to store it horizontally.

So those are my top ten keeping me upbeat. I would love to hear your faves and any survival tips for these testing times.

By all accounts, this disease was created as a direct result of animal cruelty. I hope it brings awareness to the plight of endangered species, and pressure on those who keep animals in horrifying conditions.

Keep home and stay healthy, we will beat this. Wishing you and your families a healthy mind body and spirit,