Monday, 31 January 2011

IMATS LONDON 2011: Reporting back

 

This year's IMATS has steadily improved, and according to seasoned IMATS visitors, that is self-evident. And although IMATS has positively embraced the growing trend for YouTube makeup videos and blogs, at the core of the show lies a serious reverence for makeup as an industry. Anyone with a keen interest in makeup, or anyone prone to pontificating about the exact nuances and undertones of a shade, will revel in the luxury of choosing between a thousand different types of red lipstick. 

IMATS offers the opportunity for brands to showcase their collections directly to the experts. There is no hard sell, and the shopping is nothing like an irritating trip to your local mall. The products are expected to perform at professional grade, and the customers are, in the main, makeup artists looking to fill their kit.  

  

 

INGLOT, Illamasqua, Yaby, OCC, Eve Pearl, NAKED Cosmetics, Kryolan, and many others, were all in attendance. Most had a surprisingly large amount of products on offer, though Illamasqua (perhaps put off by being nearly crushed to death last year!) opted to only bring a small section of their range. I had been looking forward to building up my pigment collection on the cheap, but alas no dice. I also had hoped Kryolan would bring their lipsticks so I could stock up (their lipsticks are brilliant!) but they couldn't bring everything. Looks like I will need to make a shopping trip to town afterall. I bought some INGLOT (not that impressed so far, sorry) Eve Pearl (lovely company, hmm still making my mind up on these but 'ok' for now) and some Yaby concealers (initially very impressed but now not so sure.) I resisted the lure of Hukuhado brushes but they do look excellent, with a real Japanese artisan flair.

lovely Eve Pearl and lovely MsPancake (will find her channel and update!)

The first talk I went to was Lauren Luke (YouTube's Panacea81.)

Lauren's was the first channel I ever subscribed to, and as she explained - back then it was only a handful of professional makeup artists demonstrating their looks on a model. What she did, as a "normal look'n" person, was to demystify complex techniques. Whether you accept her as a 'professional makeup artist' or not, her finished looks are always very polished, yet throughout the tutorials she will be casually chatting or dropping brushes just like us. Lauren admitted that the early videos which were untempered, are now a thing of the past. She no longer makes drawn out tutorials, and is sure to put her pets away so as not to offend listeners. Barry M were her first big break, and she speaks of them warmly, clearly still appreciating how they plucked her from YouTube and introduced her to the business opportunities to be gained. Nowadays she is affiliated with many brands, and of course has her own successful and expanding makeup range, By Lauren Luke (exclusive to Sephora - and, we were told, destined to be online only for UK.) She would be interested in being poached again, but joked that she has so far only had offers for her hair [Lauren has extremely long hair.] The turnout was surprisingly modest, and Lauren was not oblivious to the "snobbery" in the makeup and fashion industry. Ultimately, she has had incredible opportunites which prolific makeup artists could only dream of. Indeed, Lauren said her family only realised how famous and succesful she was when her Nintendo DS game came out. Lauren beams as she speaks of her family's pride in her. What makes Lauren Luke such a phenomenon is her charm; the fact she recognises her strengths and weaknesses and moreover that she realises her fans have sustained her career. Only once does she concede that sometimes the pressure of being recognised means that she pretends she's not "that girl off of YouTube." 

Then I went to a NAKED Cosmetics makeover with the wonderful and kind Koren from Enkoremakeup. He created a neon look using purple and green:

 

The other talk I went to was very different, and was packed with makeup artists. Louise Young hosted a makeover and spoke about "Retro Influences on Current Fashion." Louise Young is a wonderful expert, with decades of experience in both film and fashion to her name. Her aim, to create this classic look:

Whilst creating a timeless makeover, she gave out tips in an easy manner. As she concealed dark circles she warned "just a quarter of an inch out and you can age someone" and added, "sometimes you take off someone's makeup and half your work is done for you, they look so much better." Louise also spoke of her love of antique cosmetics and interest in the manufacture of makeup. She collects old compacts and old magazines and clearly finds the historical side of makeup just as interesting as the practical side. Her first foray into makeup was a serious undertaking, and the marvellous result is testament to her perfectionism. All mattes, Louise explained that matte shadows mean the makeup artist stays in control of their work, rather than be at the mercy of lighting - which can make glitters and frosts react unpredictably. I have already recommended Louise Young's brushes and palette, but meeting her again and learning so much just in a brief hour, makes me even more impressed.

Lastly I squeezed in to see Alex Box performing to a huge turnout. Clearly Alex Box, creative director of Illamasqua, appeals in equal parts to the makeup artists and to the mere makeup fanatics. Her live rendition was a treat to behold - and made it almost heartbreaking to think this will all be washed off (though she insists this is precisely its purpose.) Working to dramatic music, Alex Box, like a painter, added inspired flashes of highlight and shade for a dazzling and theatrical result. 

 

 

All in all I would highly suggest a trip to IMATS, it was a fantastic day and a definite date for your calendar.

Sunday, 23 January 2011

Your beauty data required!

I have added a fun new feature to my blog, every week I will ask a burning makeup question and look forward to hearing your opinions!

This week's Poll: Do you wear bold lipstick? 

Please take a moment to select your answer, I hope to uncover many other fundamental makeup issues and trivia all to be gleaned from these polls, and then collect up my data to inspire future posts...

IT'S ON THE TOP RIGHT - UP THERE 

Thanks!!!

Friday, 21 January 2011

Countdown to IMATS begins!!! (1 week to go!)


That time of year is almost upon us - an invitation to makeup fanatics nationwide to congregate, and indulge in makeup GALORE! 

This IMATS has a slightly different format, in that the first hour is reserve for Pro only, and then others can attend for either the floor show exhibitors, or the talks, or both. I will be visiting on the Sunday (31st.) I am excited for the chance to see Inglot after hearing so much about them, and of course the faves Kryolan, Make Up For Ever and Illamasqua et al will be there too. I am really looking forward to seeing Lauren Luke, Koren (both Youtube royalty) and also the fanatastic Louise Young, who will be speaking about retro influences on fashion, which is something that fascinates us all. Then, the indomitable Alex Box will perform makeup set to music! I am excited to hear Dany Sanz, the founder of Make Up For Ever, talk about the product line that have made them famous: HD.

For people more interested in special effects and advanced makeup, there is as always the student competition, and various talks, including a panel discussion with the people behind the Harry Potter makeup effects, which is certain to be packed out.

From last year, the tips I have learnt are: (1) Bring wet wipes! (2) Plan ahead - this year, I know the talks I want to hear, so I will turn up early and wait at the doors if possible. There is competition to get to the most popular sessions, so be the early bird. And (3) Plan your purchases, concentrate on brands you can't easily access, or capitalise on show discounts. But don't get stuff you know you really don't need [someone keep me away from the brushes!]

Are you coming to IMATS? Would love to meet anyone coming on Sunday...? 

Saturday, 15 January 2011

Illamasqua "Throb" for a bawdy Queen of Hearts!

Valentine's Day makeup collections are somewhat twee... That is, until Illamasqua hijacked tradition and made it a bawdy, seductive treat!

With the nail polishes alone "Throb", "Load" and "Scorn" describing an average Saturday night reveller's progress, the stage is set for the new Illamasqua Collection: "Throb".



Left to right: "Scorn" polish, "Load" polish,(£13.50) "Succubus" gloss,(£13) "Sangers" lipstick, (£15.50) "Throb" polish. (£13.50)

Mills & Boon have ensured that Throb will not simply mean, despite Illamasqua's intro: "Feel your pulse quicken, your heart throbbing in your chest". But for once, their cheeky product names have a context. I always think of Valentine's Day makeup as sweet and innocent, all about rosy cheeks and a lip stain - but here we have an inspired Alex Box created masterpiece, where the literal heart shape is echoed everywhere from the face to the lips to the nails.





I was sent "Succubus" lipgloss, a great name and the warm blood red in the sleek clear tube oozes a bold glamour that positively dares you to be provocative.

 
After having bought a few pencils in the fantastic sale going on right now in Selfridges, I feel well equipped to say that Illamasqua pencils and glosses are their absolute strengths. In fact I see no difference between Guerlain's super pigmented glosses and Illamasqua's - and that is not a comparison I would make lightly! The Succubus gloss is not too sticky, yet lasts hours (without staining lips!) and is intense, shiny and smells lightly of berries.


Although as I age I veer further and further away from bold lips (sob) I absolutely adore the vibrancy of this collection and the way it invites Valentine's Day to become a day for female empowerment rather than be meek and pretty in pink yet again.

Might I suggest Illamasqua "Katie" blusher, for delicate Louis XIV era pale pink cheeks? I have worn this with the "Succubus" and it just slightly takes the vixen edge off, without losing the threat altogether. But here is the product list of the official look:


Cream Foundation 100
Rich Liquid Foundation 115
Powder Foundation 105
Powder Blusher in ‘Disobey’
Powder Blusher in ‘Intrigue’
Pure Pigment in ‘Furore’
Powder Eye Shadow in ‘Heroine’ [on cheeks and eyes]
Powder Eye Shadow in ‘Sex’
Cream Pigment in ‘Emerge’ ** NEW for SS11 collection! **
Eye Liner Cake in ‘Mislead’
Sealing Gel [for eyebrows]
Precision Ink in ‘Abyss’
False Eye Lashes '021'
Lipstick in Sangers
Intense Lipgloss in Succubus


Illamasqua Throb collection is available from January 17th 2011 in Illamasqua’s Flagship Store; Selfridges London, Manchester, Birmingham; Fenwick Newcastle; Debenhams Glasgow, Belfast, Cardiff - and online at www.illamasqua.com. Plus look out for the Selfridges exclusive gift set, which adds in a blindfold and the promise to "make her throb" all for ahem, £69.

Thursday, 23 December 2010

Makeup must-haves for a Christmas break

Although my plan to jet off to some far away clime has been dashed by Heathrow's weather woes, I will be going away (ahem to North of UK) and as always the thought of packing is besieged by the panic of - what makeup to take?!

This year has been easier than ever though, I have my instant faves. Trish McEvoy has always been my fail-safe route, the compact and neat design system is a natural choice for travel. I recently reviewed the new Classic Brush set, and it is adorable and wonderful - an absolute pleasure to use. The brush set takes the decision making out of my hands, all I need is that and my trusty MAC 187 and I'm ready for Stage 2.

The gorgeous Trish McEvoy tiny eyeshadow "Emergency Card" was bought precisely for me to be able to think "Panic over, I've got my Emergency Card!" - I love the way it does justice to the feeling of being overwhelmed when considering what eyeshadows are needed aargh?!

I also absolutely adore my new Louise Young eyeshadow compact, which is all mattes. It seems I will take both. The Louise Young compact has only just gone live on the website and I snapped one up, I knew that it would be impeccable, and it seems it has not disappointed.

Foundation obviously Estee Lauder Double Wear. Blusher will be Bare Escentuals but I cannot decide which shade, they are all so pretty. Probably a pink though, I have been loving the Limited edition Pink Ribbon blusher from the Beyond Gorgeous Set. Side-note, I read (alas too late) that this set was on sale from a website for £18?! I have never bought from the site but it looks good, and right now they currently have a huge £111 set for £34 if that is any consolation.

I am also going to take my magic powder, MAC Perfect Topping (sadly L.E, we await its return one day.)

Lipsticks will be one frosty nude for night (MAC Front Lit, also sadly L.E) and one basic flesh nude, probably MAC Kinda Sexy. I have also just picked up MAC Stone lip liner, which Pixiwoo Nicola suggests makes lips look plumper, so will try that out and report back. I am debating the merits of a bold red lip but right now thinking against the idea.


I will probably take a liner, the Jordana liners are great (sadly not available in UK) but in truth both my eyeshadow palettes have fantastic definer shades in which I can use with my Trish angle brush and get brilliant results. I will probably take my Clarins eyebrow pencil, even though, again, I could use my Louise Young brown shade and the angle brush.
For mascara, although I really quite like the new Collection 2000 Fake Lashes, I will stay true to my Lancome Hypnose. Oh and have you tried the new Accessorize range? I love the Diamond lipglosses, so sparkly and yummy butter smell. I might pop one of those in.

Skincare wise I have just picked up Eucerin Q10, the so-called miracle cream, but although I adore its butter smell (yummy again), I fear it may be the culprit for my current breakout. Very annoying and means I will lean heavily on my reliable Origins Spot Remover to sort it. Also of course I will surreptitiously apply Lancome Effacernes to conceal all, it never lets me down. I set it with MAC Blot powder, or my fast fave, NYC Smooth Skin pressed powder in Translucent.

With my two palettes and my fairly neutral face and lip supplies, I believe I will be able to create a wild variety of looks, from deep purple smoky eye to neutral eye to brown smoky eye or russet smoky eye. And of course nothing less would suffice.

Oh and PS. My makeup bag, immortalised in this video, has been stolen! I left it out for a moment and it was gone. Inside it, aside from what was in the video, I had added in a Bobbi Brown Pot Rouge. However although I really miss the actual bag, and brush, and my Kryolan lipstick will need replacing ASAP, and of course I do feel the irritation of having to collect up a new makeup inventory to cart around, I cant help but feel proud that I deliberately packed it mainly full of samples and nubs.

That is my one fear, losing all these travel goodies - shudder - perish the thought. What are YOUR travel makeup essentials for crimbo??


Wednesday, 15 December 2010

Becca Fallen Angel palette: Review









I recently attended a Becca event with my friend Moodeve. It wasn't a PR event but it was invite only, and with its guestlist and its dark interior and champagne and mince pies, plus a DJ at hand, we literally did forget we weren't simply enjoying a drink at a swanky bar! That is greatly to Becca's credit. From what I can tell, Becca's wistful and romantic consistently perfect promo images, combined with a soft selling approach, marks it out from the rest. It's SO refreshing to not be pressurised to buy. There was no pointed "Can I help you!" attack.

In addition there was a manicurist, and some eyelash treatment I believe, though sadly I arrived too late for either (weather was snow and ice so the journey was extra daunting.) We ambled over to the neatly arranged Becca counter where a very friendly makeup artist gently offered a makeover. Moodeve was given a beautiful smoky eye using the eye palette, minky brown and grey with a touch of purple. I caught sight of the Fallen Angel palette and was instantly struck by the apricot shades. Wearing peach blusher is relatively new to me, I'd spent years sticking to pinks. I just find peach is more natural and better with a bold eye. I bought it for the special evening discounted price of £29.50. It is usually £35.

It was only at home that I realised the amount you get it rather paltry - a Becca cream blusher is 3g for £22, and these circles are 1.3g each. So in effect you are getting £28.60 worth of product for £35. You do get a lovely compact and a little brush, but I'd have preferred no brush and more product. I have already made a dent in my palette so I doubt it will last more than a few months at best. Still, cream products are best finished quickly.

Nectar is a pure tawny coral, lasts about 3-4 hours and fades (however this is usual with cream blush on my skin so not a surprise. Lasts an hour at best on lips. Very flattering shade though when freshly applied.)

Sunrise is a more orange coral but very sheer and high shine. Appealing vanilla scent and not too sticky. However must be packed on to get brilliant gloss. Lasts longer on lips than Nectar does, and feels very moisturising.

Narcissus is the trump card for me. This tawny gold has the exact same excellent consistency of NARS Copocabana multiple, it feels creamy but dries almost to a powder, yet looks uber glossy. This looks just like real, gleaming skin. Lasts fairly well (5-6 hours) and can be extended by a light dusting of powder. I have been using a goody bag present, the Becca Loose Shimmer Powder, in Princess, which is almost a blusher shade on me but works ideally with Narcissus.

Please watch my video review here for a closer look.

Overall grade 7/10
-- Because I love the shades and on its own cream product terms, they work great. Best for: a quick pick-me-up.


Becca Fallen Angel palette, limited edition, £35


[picture above taken from Becca website]

Monday, 13 December 2010

Generic Geriatric

Getting old is now out of style. Wrinkles are shunned more than ever, and procedures which mimic (yet never quite convince) continue to feign plump dewy skin. More worrying still, perhaps the most distressing aspect of plastic surgery: the trend to efface individuality, ethnicity, and in short, personality.

I have nothing against plastic surgery per se; I knew a friend who grew up so tormented by her (how can I put this delicately) huge banana nose, that she would pretend to have a perpetual cold - a handkerchief functioning as a permanent shield. At 16 she had a nose job, and now is confident and walks with her head held high. Who could condemn such an outcome?

Recently I was watching an interview on TV with Bette Midler and I saw elements of Kylie Minogue. The two look nothing alike naturally, but evidently some generalsing ingredient is at work. Spot the difference:




Clearly as a laudable result of the triumph of feminism combined with general modern ideology, women are no longer expected to hang their boots at 30. Instead, wearing tight leather and indeed thigh high boots is probably now becoming the domain of the over 30s proving they still are desirable - if anything more desirable, they try to insist. Marketing campaigns to appeal to women with cash to spare (professional women or bored housewives - no matter) are encouraged by visions of Sex and the City, or Sharon Stone and Andie McDowell fronting skincare adverts; Kate Moss, Charlize Theron fronting perfume adverts. Gone is the option to resign yourself to fate and nature's cruel finality. If attractiveness has been intrinsically linked to fertility and youth, then fake that and carry on as you were. Of course nature is still a powerful Titan, but science conquers all.

Hacking and stretching and plumping their way towards perfection, we are deluged with celebrities who all blend into each other, particularly as they age. And character-full noses or features which betray too much ethnicity, are ebbed away to present an apparition of Beauty.

In modern times where ostensibly there is an acceptance for global beauty, it appears that the reality is that what we really have come to accept is the perfect mix - caramel skin, westernised features. Too much divergence risks their universal appraisal.

Of course there is a timeless and borderless appreciation for beauty, which has been broadly summarised as long limbs, even features: in short, the mathematical inherent nature of beauty as a calming vision. But ageing has historically been a time for beauty to mellow and be replaced by sober dignity, untempered by the pressures of being attractive. Yet now women expect themselves to remould their beauty and re-instate their youth by force.

- This is a good thing! Our lifespans are longer, therefore by default the stretch of time we feel inclined to be fertile/attractive is accordingly extended. Of course only a bigot would return to the days in which a 40 year old single lady could only be described as a hopeless spinster, and dictate that women should know their place, etc. Nevertheless, the trend for plastic surgery which gives women a mask, is horrifying too. Men in the public eye also succumb to plastic surgery, but women have makeup tricks to easily soften and enhance their surgeon's work, which arguably gives them a dangerous carte blanche.




Unfortunately, big noses and big lips seem to go hand in hand if left to nature...


Noses must be straight, denying its atavistic qualities, and of course hair smooth and preferably lightened....






Skin must be taut, put cheekbones or lip enhancements in for any softness though... And (optional but advised) at this stage, best get a toy-boy to complete the effect.








And if your features are not the ideal man's woman, just shape them until they are...


I actually really miss Jordan's old nose, it was much more elegant. She was so much better before. Oh dear at what she has become...



(Couldn't do a piece on plastic surgery without this one, ouch it hurts to look at that wince. Poor thing.)


And those who believe surgery enables them to distil the best parts of their beauty...


Kim Kardashian used to look like her sister, now she looks like her mum (mystery... ahem)



*Disclaimer: I have no medical training and all opinion is subjective.

All photos from Google.


...What are your thoughts?

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